skyhook
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2013
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- 1,906
- Location
- Canada Ontario
- Tractor
- 1996 Kubota L4200 GSTC,(sold) 1994 JCB 210S 4x4x4
Princess auto will ship, if you order on line, may be cheaper this way.
Window motor for chute ?
- Thread starter wawajake
- Start date
- Views: 18873
bumperm
Veteran Member
A linear actuator can be had on eBay for well less than $100.
On the switch thing, I went to a fair amount of effort to locate a Joystick type switch, one that was robust enough to handle the motor current under load. The joystick was about 2 inches long and not that convenient to use with winter gloves.
In retrospect I would suggest using two DPDT (double pole double throw), center off, momentary toggle switches. One oriented with toggle up and down for deflector, and the other sideways for chute rotation. Wired like this:
Easiest Way To Reverse Electric Motor Directions - Robot Room
bumper
On the switch thing, I went to a fair amount of effort to locate a Joystick type switch, one that was robust enough to handle the motor current under load. The joystick was about 2 inches long and not that convenient to use with winter gloves.
In retrospect I would suggest using two DPDT (double pole double throw), center off, momentary toggle switches. One oriented with toggle up and down for deflector, and the other sideways for chute rotation. Wired like this:
Easiest Way To Reverse Electric Motor Directions - Robot Room
bumper
Scooby074
Super Member
Im going hydraulic when I do my conversion, soon I hope.
Got a 6" stroke cyl from PA for $49 on sale and one of their ProPoint hyd motors for $80 (50% off, returned). Now I got to gear up my remotes. How far away is the nearest PA? Might be worth a trip, they are hard to beat for this kind of stuff.
Got a 6" stroke cyl from PA for $49 on sale and one of their ProPoint hyd motors for $80 (50% off, returned). Now I got to gear up my remotes. How far away is the nearest PA? Might be worth a trip, they are hard to beat for this kind of stuff.
bumperm
Veteran Member
Jason,
I did my current blower with hydraulics too. Used a 4" stroke, 2" diameter cylinder. Sure doesn't need that much power, the idea was to slow it down some. Even with the extra cylinder capacity I made a .032" orifice restrictor to get it slow enough.
I did my current blower with hydraulics too. Used a 4" stroke, 2" diameter cylinder. Sure doesn't need that much power, the idea was to slow it down some. Even with the extra cylinder capacity I made a .032" orifice restrictor to get it slow enough.
doxford jim
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 1,004
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Tractor
- 1959 MF-65 sold, 2007 Jinma 554 diesel.
I too want to make the chute control remote on my snow blower. I have a 1500lb winch I could use but really want to get away from too many exposed electrical connections etc.
On my tractor I have two hydraulic remotes that I could use. My problem is finding a small hydraulic motor that can be connected to the crank of the current hand operated system. My thought was to connect the extended motor shaft to the hand crank shaft using a rubber hose or similar arrangement. The motor would need to be reversible and only two ports to coincide with the two quick connects on the remote valves.
So far I have only found one that would do the job - but it was very expensive.
I would be open to any suggestions from members that have gone the hydraulic motor route. I have no hydraulic parts other than a few fittings and hoses, so what ever I use will need to be bought and I want to try and keep the cost down as much as possible.
So, if anyone has some thoughts they wopuldn't mind sharing, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
On my tractor I have two hydraulic remotes that I could use. My problem is finding a small hydraulic motor that can be connected to the crank of the current hand operated system. My thought was to connect the extended motor shaft to the hand crank shaft using a rubber hose or similar arrangement. The motor would need to be reversible and only two ports to coincide with the two quick connects on the remote valves.
So far I have only found one that would do the job - but it was very expensive.
I would be open to any suggestions from members that have gone the hydraulic motor route. I have no hydraulic parts other than a few fittings and hoses, so what ever I use will need to be bought and I want to try and keep the cost down as much as possible.
So, if anyone has some thoughts they wopuldn't mind sharing, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
bumperm
Veteran Member
How much is "expensive"? Here's one for $79 that should do fine. It's "slow high torque" (I guess that's relatively speaking :c) and you'll doubtless need to put in a restricter to slow it down further, but with 823 inch pounds of torque is should do the trick. Your idea of using a hose coupling should work nicely, I did that on my last tractor/blower. Cross bolt on one side and hose clamp on the other. You could even adjust the hose clamp to provide a slip clutch effect if you wanted.
2.5 cu in WHITE 255040F3DD22AAAA HYDRAULIC MOTOR
bumper
2.5 cu in WHITE 255040F3DD22AAAA HYDRAULIC MOTOR
bumper
PILOON
Super Star Member
I have fooled around with a variety of 12 volt shoot drives and have to say that you do want a lot of low speed torque as ice occurs and you do need power to break the shoot loose.
In my case I presently use a wheelchair traction motor and that performs just great as would a small electric winch motor.
Unless you park indoors in heated garage I think window and seat 12 volt motors will not cut it.
At one time I used a chain and sprocket arrangement but ice between the links made that impracticable so I went to a cable wrap driven by a small motor drum with the best results.
In my case I presently use a wheelchair traction motor and that performs just great as would a small electric winch motor.
Unless you park indoors in heated garage I think window and seat 12 volt motors will not cut it.
At one time I used a chain and sprocket arrangement but ice between the links made that impracticable so I went to a cable wrap driven by a small motor drum with the best results.
doxford jim
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
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- 1,004
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- British Columbia, Canada
- Tractor
- 1959 MF-65 sold, 2007 Jinma 554 diesel.
bumper,
Thanks for the link. I am not sure but doesn't that motor require a separate return from the pump to the hydraulic tank ?
I found this motor in Canada that doesn't seem to need a separate return. I assume that the fluid goes both ways through either hose when connected to the remote on the tractor?
2.8 cu. in. 2-Bolt Hydraulic Gerotor Motor | Princess Auto
The motor is more expensive than Surplus Centre but is available in Canada for more money.
As I envisage the setup would be the motor mounted to a bracket with the motor outlet shaft in line with the mechanical shaft of the blower, connected with the hose coupling to allow for minor misalignment. Two short (4ft) hydraulic hoses connect the remote on the tractor to the pump - one disconnect to one port - both ports being connected. This should allow flow to and from the pump via the spool valve on the tractor remote. A flow restrictor or smaller hose would help reduce speed of motor. This would be a simple and weather proof set up - I think. It would use the tractor hydraulic oil from the main tank, thereby being warmish and able to do it's job.
I am not too much involved with hydraulic systems so maybe my thoughts are won't pan out.
Would appreciate comments regarding what I have in mind - good or bad.
Thanks for your interest.
jim
Thanks for the link. I am not sure but doesn't that motor require a separate return from the pump to the hydraulic tank ?
I found this motor in Canada that doesn't seem to need a separate return. I assume that the fluid goes both ways through either hose when connected to the remote on the tractor?
2.8 cu. in. 2-Bolt Hydraulic Gerotor Motor | Princess Auto
The motor is more expensive than Surplus Centre but is available in Canada for more money.
As I envisage the setup would be the motor mounted to a bracket with the motor outlet shaft in line with the mechanical shaft of the blower, connected with the hose coupling to allow for minor misalignment. Two short (4ft) hydraulic hoses connect the remote on the tractor to the pump - one disconnect to one port - both ports being connected. This should allow flow to and from the pump via the spool valve on the tractor remote. A flow restrictor or smaller hose would help reduce speed of motor. This would be a simple and weather proof set up - I think. It would use the tractor hydraulic oil from the main tank, thereby being warmish and able to do it's job.
I am not too much involved with hydraulic systems so maybe my thoughts are won't pan out.
Would appreciate comments regarding what I have in mind - good or bad.
Thanks for your interest.
jim
Scooby074
Super Member
Jason,
I did my current blower with hydraulics too. Used a 4" stroke, 2" diameter cylinder. Sure doesn't need that much power, the idea was to slow it down some. Even with the extra cylinder capacity I made a .032" orifice restrictor to get it slow enough.
Good point on the speed. The cyl I got is only 1". Should be plenty fast lol. Ill likely have to drill out an orifice or something.
Scooby074
Super Member
Youll have to define expensive. The ProPoint motor I got from PA was way, way overkill from a power perspective, but the price was right. Even the cylinder at 1" has more power than needed. I also bought a 1" lovejoy for the motor, and a 1/2" lovejoy for the worm screw on the blower (approx $10 ea). But I got rotation and deflection for under $175 which is a deal to me.
Problem with PA is lots of these extreme deals like this are in store only. Returns and stuff like that. Still, even on mail order, if you watch the sales you should be able to gear up for under $225-250.
check this motor for 135 on sale 3.2 cu. in. 4-Bolt Hydraulic Spool Valve Geroler Motor | Princess Auto
