8N that I thought was a 2N

[Eyecatcher]

Saw a thread that showed pix of a small rod attached to the right side park pawl that came up under the seat. Looks like a good idea, since I put the left one on backwards, and would have to dis-assemble the brakes to turn it around! Got some more parts in, so will assemble right brakes. Still cleaning off many layers of paint. Everything that comes off gets cleaned and painted. Haven't decided whether or not to completely strip. This will be a working tractor, not a show girl. The long pin that went through the upper 3 point link was frozen, and the triangle cover behind the draft spring was broken. Got the triangle thing worked out, and by cutting the long pin in three pieces was able to drive it out. There is what looks like a bushing in the center mount that extends out into each side of that upper link. The upper link is worn til it's very sloppy on that bushing, but the bushing is solid in the cast iron mount. I don't know how this is supposed to work. Should I continue to remove that bushing? Can the link be rebushed to take the slop out? I've seen pix of tractors having the long pin, and some with just a short pin through the center two mounts. What was the long pin for?

 

[GPintheMitten]

Are you talking about the horizontal pin on the top link?

If so a long pin that sticks out both sides would allow room for chains to support the 3 point implement like a brush hog. The top of the chains have a small steel plate with a hole to allow the pin to slide thru. The plate has a keyhole that you use to adjust the chain length, with the other ends of the chain attached to the bottom pins on the implement to position it. But it still allows you to lift the implement.

There are also similar devices that use sliding steel instead of chains to support the 2 bottom points at a specific height.

 

[Eyecatcher]

I'm a newbie when it comes to Ford tractors. (Can you tell?) On my other tractors, when you set the 3 point at a certain height, it stays there until you move the control. Doesn't this one do the same thing? That long horizontal pin is what I'm talking about. It is supported at 4 points. Facing the rear of the tractor, the hole on the left is about 7/8, the center two are 7/8, and the extreme right is 3/4. The long pin had a bushing on it that made it tight in the left hole. The 2 center ones have a bushing that extends far enough thru on each side of the two center mounts to carry the upper link. I had to cut up the long pin to get it out, and the long bushing thru the two center supports is still there, so I can't remove the upper link, and it is terribly sloppy.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks, GP, I'll try that when I get it back together - waitin on parts.

That piece is called a pawl.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm a newbie when it comes to Ford tractors. (Can you tell?) On my other tractors, when you set the 3 point at a certain height, it stays there until you move the control. Doesn't this one do the same thing? That long horizontal pin is what I'm talking about. It is supported at 4 points. Facing the rear of the tractor, the hole on the left is about 7/8, the center two are 7/8, and the extreme right is 3/4. The long pin had a bushing on it that made it tight in the left hole. The 2 center ones have a bushing that extends far enough thru on each side of the two center mounts to carry the upper link. I had to cut up the long pin to get it out, and the long bushing thru the two center supports is still there, so I can't remove the upper link, and it is terribly sloppy.

Is your hyd cover and pump from a 2n, or 8n?

Either pump and cover , as a pair, will fit on either center section.

2n, had draft controlled only, is plowing. Full back was up for transport position.

8n have option for position control, extra 3" lever on cover, when pointing up, sets position control. Generally stays where y put it if the linkages are in good adjustment.

 

[Eyecatcher]

Yes, I have the draft control lever. The captive end of the lower 3 point arms, those attached to the rear end housing, have a huge amt of slop in them. can they be rebushed? I'm trying to get all the slop out of the 3 point that I can.

 

[Soundguy]

You can replace the ends, however in a lift situation, you won't feel the slop as the ball and socket set against load.

Be care full removing the big nuts, many times, the pin spins, then you have to take a trumpet off to retighten the pins.

PS, on the park brake, the later models used those rods that went up under the seat.. etc.

 

[Eyecatcher]

I was wondering about those pins and how they were sealed, looks like one of them is leaking a little. Don' think I'm gonna pull a banjo right yet, wait and see how bad it leaks.

 

[Soundguy]

They are a tapered fit.

If you pull and repair them, clean well and coat the pins with jbweld to make up and voids or scratches, then torque down.

The job is just to take up space, and act as a spin preventer.. nothing more

 

[Eyecatcher]

Sure enough, the pin on the right side that is leaking, spins around and around. Guess I'll pull that banjo, if I'm gonna clean this thing up and paint it, I don't want any oil dribbling down. Assembly manual shows the inside end of that pin with a lockwasher, castle nut and cotter pin. Surprises me that it is loose. Guess I'll see why!