8N that I thought was a 2N

[Soundguy]

Yup, pull the left trumpet, do that side, lift out the chunk, and do the right side with it installed. Clean up good, get that job, and to torque it, ditto on the cotter pin and all.

And yeah, they can come loose after 60 ys work.....

 

[Soundguy]

Job = jb weld

Pos autocorrect on phone...

 

[Eyecatcher]

don't understand the JB Weld. Am I missing something? The left side pin is tight, so am not going to disturb it. I've still got the rear end on jack stands w/no tires mounted. Little concerned about knocking it off the stands. Guess I'll use hydraulic jack under center section and crib up under it. That way I can have the floor jack to lift the trumpet if I need it. How heavy is one trumpet? Can one guy lift it off and on? Of course I don't have a new gasket - hope I can salvage the old one by using a little silicone.

 

[Soundguy]

Jb makes up space. If the pin us sloppy it may leak when tightened as it is a taper fit. I'd do both the the left, but if you only want to do the right, go for it. Axle and trumpet could be pulled as a unit, but id allow for about 80-100#. If the gasket is old, I don't expect it will survive, since the gasket is setting bearing pre load, don't want to just use goop.. Imho..

 

[Eyecatcher]

Got the pin tightened up! Finally got lucky on one. Gasket was intact, and by adding an extra washer behind the castle nut, it pulled up very nicely, and centered the cotter pin in the nut slot. I am going to replace all 4 swivel ends on the lower arms. I cut away the weld on one side of one of them, and the after market replacements have me a little puzzled. Agri-Supply has them for 4.99 ea, but the o/s dia is 2 3/8" looks like max on mine are about 2 1/4". How is the best way to go about this? The ones where you cut the entire end off and weld back on are around $15. Lot rather use the cheapies. Also looks like I'm gonna need a rear wheel outer rim. Thought I could repair it, but it's too far gone. This is getting expensive.

 

[Soundguy]

you can buy rims many places, sometimes even tsc.

ont he replacement ends, i like the ones with a stub end .. makes them easier to weld to.

 

[Eyecatcher]

I think you're right on the stub ends - looks like the way to go, Next question: as near as I can tell, measuring across the tire/wheel with a ruler, I'd say I need a 10x28 outer rim. Problem I'm seeing, is that everybody lists a rim with six mounting loops. Mine doesn't have any loops, rather there is a ring pressed into the wheel, that the inner wheel fastens on with thru bolts. Is this an unusual thing? Is the loop type wheel an update?

 

[Eyecatcher]

OK, a little more research tells me I have a "hat section" wheel, and I guess there aren't many around. My son is a welder fabricator. Maybe if we find a "donor", we can fix this one.

 

[Soundguy]

yup, hat rims were the original. you can put a loop center on a hat rim.. etc..

 

[Eyecatcher]

I'd like to keep them the same as long as I have to buy a wheel. I'm not ready to use the tractor yet, so I can look for a while. If I could find a donor that had a good section, I'd try making one out of two. Found a gas tank and a fan shroud on e-bay, so got them on the way.