Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Need snow removal help

[dave1949]

I think you will get along fine, just take your time and be safe. I think it takes a three-car garage to support a tractor and the inevitable collection of implements. :laughing:

If you have any drop-off edges along your road, you might get stuck with a front wheel over that edge and not enough traction to get all four wheels back on the road. One technique that often works in that situation is to use your FEL bucket to push backward while your are in reverse. Put the bucket cutting edge down on the ground with some down pressure in the dumped position, then curl the bucket to the level position. This pushes the tractor backwards while taking a lot of the weight off the front axle.

I won't work with the plow blade, so don't get stuck with that on. :laughing:

 

[s219]

We need to deduct accuracy points from several posts here -- the B3350 engine *already* has a turbo. Several members here own that model and are using them in high altitude locations in the western US because of this.

 

[dave1949]

We need to deduct accuracy points from several posts here -- the B3350 engine *already* has a turbo. Several members here own that model and are using them in high altitude locations in the western US because of this.

My bad. Thanks for correcting that. I looked at the B3350 specs and didn't see anything about it either way. From what little I know about altitude and turbochargers, that should be a good thing.

 

[skyhook]

If it doesn't have a turbo on it, I'm sure "The Fred" can install one for you.
Ask him nicely, and he may put two on....

Having a plow on your bucket helps with pushing them snow banks out of the way,,
the plow sticks out about another three feet or so, past the bucket, giving you a longer reach to push back the banks without going over the side of the road.
Something to think about also, I personally would much prefer a bucket mounted plow over a QA plow for this reason.

 

[speedyvelo]

We need to deduct accuracy points from several posts here -- the B3350 engine *already* has a turbo. Several members here own that model and are using them in high altitude locations in the western US because of this.

I believe the dealer suggested me the best he could for a small tractor that was my inital request so thank you for helping "my mental health"
Also you were right in one of your previous post that I have to get better with the HST. So many new things.!

Sould I add liquid ballast to the tires? If that is the case after reading many threads on this subject I probably can do it myself with RV antifreezer I have a pump so it should be OK. I hate to have the dealer come and had to take the tractor back. Does it make sense?

 

[speedyvelo]

I think you will get along fine, just take your time and be safe. I think it takes a three-car garage to support a tractor and the inevitable collection of implements. :laughing:

If you have any drop-off edges along your road..........,:

Dave you are rigth the garage I have built is 20 x 16 and can barely fit the B3350 with the front loader or front blade and the read blade attached, a L6060 is 16ft from the FEL to the 3P so I would have to detach every time the FEL (easy one) or the rear blade (not as easy). Well after deciding to not upgrade the L6060 everything is back in place. BTW thxs for the nice tip in how to use the FEL to push backward, so far I have never mounted the FEL yet, it is sitting inside of the garge without a single scratch ;-)

 

[Danny C]

I believe the dealer suggested me the best he could for a small tractor that was my inital request so thank you for helping "my mental health"
Also you were right in one of your previous post that I have to get better with the HST. So many new things.!

Sould I add liquid ballast to the tires? If that is the case after reading many threads on this subject I probably can do it myself with RV antifreezer I have a pump so it should be OK. I hate to have the dealer come and had to take the tractor back. Does it make sense?

I wouldn't have a tractor without loaded rear tires as the minimum. It adds weight to the tractor which is good for traction (even in snow) and stability (lowers Centre of Gravity CoG). Pushing and pulling often comes down to mass; the object with the greater mass is the one which does not move.

You can add washer fluid if you like, I have beet juice. Cheap, heavy, biodegradable and won't rust out my rims.

I have also grooved my tires for improved snow and ice traction. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/193438-cutting-groving-siping-r-4-a-36.html I finally got to try it out Sunday and I have to say the improvement was very noticable; much less slipage than last season even though I turned up my fiel pump to make more power.

 

[speedyvelo]

I
You can add washer fluid if you like, I have beet juice. Cheap, heavy, biodegradable and won't rust out my rims.

I have also grooved my tires for improved snow and ice traction..

Danny, to get beet juice the dealer has to take the tractor back which is not simple from where I live and I could not find any places where I could buy the beet juice, I wonder if I am not looking into the right places?
How do you gooved the tires? just for interest, because,this is too far out for me at this time.

 

[s219]

You can definitely load the tires yourself -- I'd suggest using windshield washer fluid or an RV antifreeze mix as you note. It takes a lot of liquid for the rear tires, so be sure to estimate and mixup enough ahead of time (there may be online charts that will help with the volume for your rear tire size). You can buy a special valve that lets you load tires -- it will allow the air to escape as you add liquid. Can't really be done without that valve. Only fill to the top of the rim, leaving an air gap for the top of the tire. This can be done by placing the valve at 12 o'clock and stopping when liquid reaches that level.

 

[speedyvelo]

s219 thanks.

I got the valve:

Amazon.com: Milton S-466 Tire Valve Adapter Kit: Automotive

The tires are:
REAR - 12.4-16 R4

So according to the chart I should need about 21 G per tire

https://www.messicks.com/blog/post/Liquid-Tire-Ballast-Chart.aspx

..and I will use a pump I have.

I will use a jack just to get some of the weight our of the tire, have the valve at 12 o'clock and add 21 gallons and stop before if liquids gets above the valve correct?

I will search for the pink RV antifreeze an be sure I have a coverage for at least -20 F. I wish I could buy the beet juice but I do not know where to look for it.