Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Need snow removal help

[jhasafety1]

I haven't done snow removal in a long time but one of the best tips I learned is always put snow to the downhill side and pushpiles should be placed where they will not melt back over the drive area creating more ice. Good luck and have fun.

 

[gnawbone]

Sorry, I guess I left that part out! Yes, I reverse the blade and go forward with the tractor - I actually did that today just to dress up the gravel a little. I keep the road in good condition and don't let it get potholes (I grade it often enough, I guess) so reversing the blade works for me.

I just recently built a pole barn and added about 200' of road and I've been grading that with the cutting edge of the blade forward because I need to 'rough up' gravel to continue to smooth it out. I do a couple passes that way and then reverse the blade to give it a 'finish'.

Gnawbone, Thxs.

If you see the picture of my tractor I have the rear blade like you said because. the only time I tried was easy to move forward with the blade in that position without getting stuck in the gravel. a couple of the member make me aware of the dangerous to damage the rear triangle with the blade in that position (THXS)and I assume that would be the case if I use it for pushing where the blade should be in reverse, but if I only move forward and I use it as a complement of the front blade may be OK. If I understand correctly that is how you do it.
In summary if I use the rear blade in reverse I should not use it to push, If I need to push snow I should turn the tractor around and push with the front blade. Does it make sense?
BTW my rear blade is very simple and it does not have a floating position like the front one.
View attachment 404004

 

[nybirdman]

Your rear blade will"float"up and down because the three point does not have down pressure.

 

[speedyvelo]

Thank you for all the posts, I have not read carefully the last group of posts yet.

Well.. we had 12 inches of snow and yesterday I used the tractor for the first time. It took me a about 4.5 hours, I know some time was lost due to my lack of experience.
I used the front and real blade, I did not need the FEL. It worked very well and when done the road was completely clean. I followed in one way or another all of your advices.
Initially I have the read blade reverse with the cutting edge backward, the plod was faster but it left a lot of snow in the ground, then I reverse it and the rear blade worked better in my situation.
I tried to push the snow to the side as much as I could as one of you tipped me on that. I believe the road is wider now than before the storm ;-)
Plodding the center of the road was easy, the sides is different because sometimes the blade hooked into a root or rock and I have to backup and lifted, I lost time a lot that I will not next time.
I also plodded a good size parking (dirt) we have in front of the garage and also at the top of the hill where the county road meets. I still do not have a system in how to do this type of spaces so I lost time there.
The snow removal of the road took 4 passes, I think 3 passes will do it next time.
I use low gear all the time, at the end I realized that I could have used middle gear at least when I moving downhill (clueless? ...yes). The dealer told me in this road you will use low gear most of the time and sometimes middle, you will never use high gear. Well I used low.
I had the tractor in fwd and traction seems to be OK (I have rear chains). I do not know if they load the tires, after reading some your messages I search to understand what you meant, and I almost sure they did not add anything inside of the tire. I will talk to them tomorrow.
Should I get chains for the front wheels also?

In summa, the tractor seems to work OK and I think after few more rides I will feel a little more comfortable. The temperature was -4 F so I am glad I got the cabin, this was a hard decision because i could have gotten the L series for the same price but without a cabin.
On the humor side, the dealer also gave a Kubota hat, I thought was just to wear for the looks, then the sun was in front and I realized the cabin does now have a visor, the hat save me.

Tomorrow I will review all of your replies, because now I will read them with a little more understanding.

Thank you all of you again, you are great!

-=terry=-

 

[woodchipper]

Terry, glad to see you are learning well and fast on how to plow such a long laneway.
My laneway is a private dirt road that is 3.1km long. Verry long and steep hills, and many sharp turns. Not the usual set up!
Where I live, we could have our share of snow as well. The way I have been doing my plowing is by using a rear mount forward traveling snow blower. One pass is all I need. Traction is of the utter most importance. Good ice chains a basic pre-requisite as you can imagine! I used to plow with a heavy half ton pick up, with chains on all four wheels, and a 7.5 foot good old fisher plow. I killed the transmission one day pushing lots of snow uphill... Can't beat the tractor!
With your already acquired experience, you have probably realized that your machine could be a little on the light side, when using both front and rear blades.
When I get little snow, I use a rear scraper blade. They are not meant for pushing much snow. your front blade is on the contrary very well adapted to this task. The more snow to plow, the sharper the angle on your blade. Always better to start plowing when the road base is solidly frozen.
If you want to put chains in the front, it will help a lot to stay on track, but keep in mind that if you use the 4x4, then you will exhert more tension/pressure on the front axel and all its gears and components. You have to be gentle, and easy, otherwise something could get damaged. With my experience, if I could stay in rear wheel mode, the better. I use differential lock a lot, and proves to be a saver time after time. Pushing snow with the front blade makes the front end lighter. Only trial and error will dictate the best approach in the many varying conditions you will encounter in a single snow season. Snow that has been pushed hardens like a rock very quickly. Therefore, best to allways complete your run each time you go out.
The worst condition you will encounter, will be melting snow!! Angle your blade to the max, and widen without delay cause it will turn into steel after freezing takes over...
Good luck, and happy TRACTORING!:salute:!

 

[nybirdman]

You will find that High range is for"road travel,unloaded",as you get more comfortable I think you will find that you do most of your work in medium range.Low is good until you get familiar with the tractor and road way.The faster you move the farther you throw the snow.
You did the right thing purchasing a cabbed tractor,not fun doing snow removal with an open station.

 

[HEC]

I think you did quite well Terry with 12 inches of snow and length of drive you have . As you get a good base down things will go a little faster . You were right in staying in low range for now . If you were going to fast and your rear blade got hooked on something damage can occur . As for me I stay in low range for my area and it takes me about 2 hrs. . Once you know where all the problem spots are may be then you can speed up where you feel comfortable . If you get your rear tires loaded it would help with traction for sure . Be sure they use an anti corrosive material , the dealer will know what that is . As for chains on the front be careful with that one . Many on here do it but they are experienced in using them. Take your time and learn as you go , if you try and speed things up to much problems can happen . You have a nice piece of equipment , take care of it and it will take care of you .

 

[Looking4new]

A easy way to check if your tires are loaded or not. Park with the valve in the lower 1/2 of the circle and push in the core (as if you were going to deflate the tire) Liquid will come out immediately if the tire is loaded. DO NOT let all the air out of the tire. Just a little psst, is all you need.

 

[skyhook]

T

Well.. we had 12 inches of snow and yesterday I used the tractor for the first time. It took me a about 4.5 hours,

Thank you all of you again, you are great!

-=terry=-

Be careful terry, that's how it start's, then it's 5.5 hours, then 8 hour's,
next thing you know, the wife says, get rid of it.

 

[speedyvelo]

We have not had too much snow yet except for one day. I have used the tractor a couple of more days and I star to feel more comfortable mainly using the front blade. The tires do not have any ballast I understand for all of your comments the needs for that.

I went to talk to the dealer this past week and he told me that with the type or road I had to cover, he thinks I need a more powerful tractor mainly if I get a major snow storm with significant snow drifts. He suggested to exchange for an L series.
I realized that he may be correct, unfortunately I build a garage for the tractor of 20 x 16 that fits the present tractor with front and back implements OK but it will not fit the L except removing the FEL or the hydraulic front blade. Well that's the price to pay for ignorance about tractors. I am glad I went with this dealer because they are trying to do everything they can to provide me with the best tools for my needs.
I will make a decision over the next couple of weeks and I will post it.

-=terry=-