I'm without my 422 for awhile.......

ernemats · Jan 6, 2015

Sorry to hear about your engine problems. I have a 1999 422 with the Robin engine . I just hit 2,200 hours on it tonight while snow plowing. I have had very little trouble with the engine other than replacing the coils on it. I have never adjusted the valves and usually I only change the oil and filter about once a year with conventional 5-30 motor oil. As far as starting most of the time it starts without any problem even in temperatures below 20 degrees. I really like my Robin engine .

MossRoad · Jan 7, 2015

ernemats said:
Sorry to hear about your engine problems. I have a 1999 422 with the Robin engine . I just hit 2,200 hours on it tonight while snow plowing. I have had very little trouble with the engine other than replacing the coils on it. I have never adjusted the valves and usually I only change the oil and filter about once a year with conventional 5-30 motor oil. As far as starting most of the time it starts without any problem even in temperatures below 20 degrees. I really like my Robin engine .

Yours has always been reliable. Wonder if its a model year for that engine or something that may have changed.

MuncyBob · Jan 7, 2015

It goes on the lower area of the hydraulic tank.

Frank Sorbello · Jan 7, 2015

I have a 1999 PT-422. The previous owner had it rebuilt with about 700 hours. (around $1700) I have had it for two years. It has been a real ******* to start in weather below 40 degrees. I purchased the KAT 24250 heater from Amazon. Expected to receive it today. If I don't buy a new PT-425 this year, I will look to purchase a new motor.

MuncyBob · Jan 7, 2015

The coincidence about my situation is, the oil into the air filter problem started happening after the 500 hour valve adjustment. My mechanic agrees it's not likely to be just the head gaskets. Waiting for the garage to call back with an estimate(after he prices out the parts needed) and in the meantime I have called another place. If both are approaching the original figure then I'll be looking at a different engine.

Frank, let us know what you think about the heater. I am interested to know how long it will take to be effective....couple hours, overnight?

ponytug · Jan 7, 2015

The Kat heater comes in a number of wattages. If you want some of the higher wattage ones, check on the tractor and hydraulic sections. I have my eye on one that is 1250W. I suspect that the choice will be limited by the free surface size available on your hydraulic tank. The nice thing about these Kat heaters is how small they are. Still, 1250W into 15 gallons of oil and 150lb of steel is a lot to heat, not counting heat loss to the environment.

The surface prep involves sanding down to bare metal and then roughing it up for good adhesion. You can read it on their website.

All the best,

Peter

MuncyBob · Jan 7, 2015

OK, here is what I've been told by garage#1....based on worst case scenario parts & labor will be apprx $1100 plus and add'l $125+ to work the heads. Been told that without a doubt engine needs to be pulled for valve job...needs to be pulled even just to check head gasket. Anybody with a Robin in a PT confirm this?

In any case, I'll be picking up the PT on Saturday and taking for a 2nd opinion.If that isn't any better then it's onto an engine replacement.

sixdogs · Jan 7, 2015

I would check a repower replacement engine. There is a place in either Illinois or Indiana that sells new engines by the boatload and seem to have engines to fit everything. I think the name is Engine Warehouse or close to that. Do a search and you have an option.

J_J · Jan 7, 2015

22 HP ROBIN EH65 ENGINE

25 HP ROBIN/SUBARU ENGINE

Engines

CH23S-76579-R1

Frank Sorbello · Jan 7, 2015

Don't want to hijack your thread. I did receive the KAT 24250 Heater today. It's small enough. However won't be able to install it just yet. Wind chill is in the single digits. I am afraid if the metal on the hydraulic tank isn't warm enough the glue on the pad won't adhere to the tank. Directions say to sand off all paint and degrease with something other than gasoline or acetone. I had planned on using acetone. Any suggestions for a degreaser?

Frank Sorbello · Jan 7, 2015

JJ I am liking the price on the 23hp Kohler, however it says for LP or Natural Gas.

sixdogs · Jan 7, 2015

That Small Engine Warehouse will likely have other repower choices. A different maker of the engine but one that fits the space and purpose intended. Just a thought.

MuncyBob · Jan 7, 2015

Stopped at another shop on my way home tonight. Explained everything and asked even if the engine had to be pulled and if both the head gaskets and a valve job were to be done what ballpark figure would they be at. Less than half the price of the other place! I'll be dropping it off Saturday.

MossRoad · Jan 7, 2015

Frank Sorbello said:
Don't want to hijack your thread. I did receive the KAT 24250 Heater today. It's small enough. However won't be able to install it just yet. Wind chill is in the single digits. I am afraid if the metal on the hydraulic tank isn't warm enough the glue on the pad won't adhere to the tank. Directions say to sand off all paint and degrease with something other than gasoline or acetone. I had planned on using acetone. Any suggestions for a degreaser?

I think someone mentioned alcohol.

MossRoad · Jan 7, 2015

Farmall140 said:
Stopped at another shop on my way home tonight. Explained everything and asked even if the engine had to be pulled and if both the head gaskets and a valve job were to be done what ballpark figure would they be at. Less than half the price of the other place! I'll be dropping it off Saturday.

That's a relief. Do they have to pull the engine?

MuncyBob · Jan 8, 2015

Moss, won't know until I get it there but with the tight area to work in I'm guessing they will have to. Once the engine is dropped back in will I only need to bleed the hydraulics in the same manner as when changing the filter?

Kent · Jan 8, 2015

In the case of the 425 (2011 version) it is not necessary to remove any hydraulic hoses to remove/install the engine, so no bleeding is needed. Getting the engine out is a snap, leaving all the pumps in place. Putting it back is harder, as you have to align the lovejoy connector pieces before bolting the hydraulic pumps unit back on the engine. Not much room for wrenches, either, several bolts going on 1/8 of a turn at a time!

MossRoad · Jan 8, 2015

Farmall140 said:
Moss, won't know until I get it there but with the tight area to work in I'm guessing they will have to. Once the engine is dropped back in will I only need to bleed the hydraulics in the same manner as when changing the filter?

As Kent says... if none of the hydraulics are opened, there is no need to bleed anything. If they have to open any lines, fittings, pumps, filter, etc.... then you will probably have to bleed it.

MuncyBob · Jan 30, 2015

Well, she is still in the shop. They finally got around to tearing some of the engine apart and I am now told that the exhaust guides on both cylinders came out and due to this the heads are shot? I thought the heads could be machined so I would not have to look for new ones...which are not cheap @ $170 each!

BTW, Kent if you are reading this still I sent you a PM on your offer...let me know if it still stands...thanx!

KMA · Jan 30, 2015

Farmall140,

I still have my EH65 which I'd be willing to give you. I've never taken it apart to see what exactly was wrong with it, but one cylinder did not work. My guess was a broken connector rod. If you are interested in using if for parts, I may not be that far of a drive from you (13827). If so, send me a PM.