Lifespan of a newer Deere tractor - how long do you expect your tractor to last?

[MrWhippy]

I think the new tractors may last as long but the question is how well do they age? What I mean by that is lets compare a John Deere 3020 to a John Deere 6330 which is a little bigger. First off will the hood last 40 years without needing to be repaired or replaced due to cracks? Second lets compare all the electronics to the 3020. The 3020 had none and the new tractor has all kinds. Obviously the electronic stuff such as sensors will fail and need replaced at some point. When these failures happen can you diagnose and repair yourself? Will you need to send it to John Deere and get a nice big bill? A 6330 is not a Tier 4 machine but if it was how much added cost over the life of the tractor will that add? Another thing I notice is all the materials on all the newer machines of any brand appears to be cheap. We have given up metal for cheap plastic that gets brittle and breaks at some point. There are four Deere combines run on our farms. Two are 9870's and the other two are S690's. Within a day of each other the same belts and other parts on the S690's break. This new machines are just not made to last like the old ones. The way the new ones are designed to last the test of time is by adding new parts on a regular basis.

This is my concern. When grounds get dodgy, and sensors degrade, how do you troubleshoot it? When we replaced the Ford 1710, we went with the tractor with the least electronics required for actual running.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I'll be serious now....

I bought a new tractor of a reputable brand and dealer so as not to wonder how long this thing is going to last. I'm of such an age that I had the money (finally to buy new) and was tired of keeping all my old worn out stuff working. Thus my XXXXX brand tractor should out last me....or did I miss the point?

End of story.

I could have written that.

I had the money to pay cash and even though my old (1952) tractor still ran good, I just didn't want to keep tinkering with it.

I'm 68 and if my new machine lasts me more than 10 years, I'm good.

A friend of mine with a JD asked me if XXXX would still be around and would parts be available in 25-30 years.

I gave him a look and he understood that it made no difference to me.

 

[RoyJackson]

As far as I know, John Deere makes their own tractors. Some in Moline, some in Augusta and some in JD factories overseas. Of course many parts are from overseas.

Some of the Deere CUTs were built by Yanmar. I don't know if Yanmar is still building complete tractors for Deere (but I think some of the subCUTs are still Yanmar), but they are still supplying engines....and just recently for the new 4x20 series machines.

 

[Agvg]

Parts support are rubbish on many models, I find it nice that the MF dealer actually runs advertising on parts for tractors made between 1948 and 1955. Many of the Japanese brands have something to learn there.

 

[sixdogs]

Some of the Deere CUTs were built by Yanmar. I don't know if Yanmar is still building complete tractors for Deere (but I think some of the subCUTs are still Yanmar), but they are still supplying engines....and just recently for the new 4x20 series machines.

The way I understand it, the successors to the JD 790 and JD990 still are 100% Yanmar but badged Deere.

 

[arrow]

If you can consider 1985 as a "modern" tractor, my JD 750 I kept for 28 yrs. It had 1700 hrs on it. My observations is that for how i use a tractor (mostly skidding wood) this tractor was starting to "fatigue". Metal parts such as steering knuckles, pedal rods, inner rock shaft bearings and front axle component. Had the critical parts been more available instead of N/A for a lot of them, I may have kept the tractor and nursed it along. It had a hard life with me and now resides with a guy who does light chores with it and loves the thing. He even built a cab for it.
My new tractor I do not feel is as well put together but I expect it to be the last tractor I own.

 

[tcreeley]

My 2003 TC30 is all steel except for the steering wheel and seat. Soon after they went to plastic in my size tractor. Steel dents, rusts, but it does not crack. As a kid who would have thought that plastic would be rugged enough to be used the way it is today! Plastic used to sag if left in the sun!

 

[fieldman12]

The mechanics at my local Deere dealership have told me a lot of these issues with grounds and sensors cause all kinds of crazy problems that often are not easy to diagnose. It often makes your machine look like it has multiple issues. For example they where telling me an issue with a bad ground was causing all kinds of crazy issues with the machine starting, turn signal issues, shifting issues,light issues and so on.

This is my concern. When grounds get dodgy, and sensors degrade, how do you troubleshoot it? When we replaced the Ford 1710, we went with the tractor with the least electronics required for actual running.

 

[MattLynch]

I expect an 80hp+ farm tractor to last 10,000 hours before an engine rebuild and close to that for a wet clutch or any tranny work(depends greatly on how it was used). Older tractors were so simple with so little to go wrong, newer ones may be built just as well, but have way more wiring and electronic parts that will fail at some point.

That being said, my tractor had both engine and transmission issues when it was a year old, bad electrics too.......maybe mine is a lemon.

 

[Ken]

I expect an 80hp+ farm tractor to last 10,000 hours before an engine rebuild and close to that for a wet clutch or any tranny work(depends greatly on how it was used). Older tractors were so simple with so little to go wrong, newer ones may be built just as well, but have way more wiring and electronic parts that will fail at some point.

That being said, my tractor had both engine and transmission issues when it was a year old, bad electrics too.......maybe mine is a lemon.

Matt I also would expect a tractor to get many years of use . But maybe tested on flat parking lots instead of where work is being done.
The hydraulics are on bottom of frame where any snag will get the filters or hoses. which put stop to work until repaired.
Not against the plastic fuel tanks except looks like wrapped around any open on rear of engine.
The fuel fill cap counter sunk under a cover preventing easy fill access.
Who cares the left turn blinker light is not working never use in field. But warning keeps from seeing the other items on dash until fixed.
But then unless filled top to of tank the low fuel warning also prevents dash use.
Connect a rotary (bush hog) to tractor and the safety covers prevent greasing or removing the pto shaft.

I'm confident the main portion of the tractor is solid. only all the added items are stuck to where has to be removed to check any other part.
Tires are not what used to be seem to wear fast and very easy to puncher the side walls. I have contractor tires on my 4520 yet pick up small nails and a slow leak starts .
In the past had a jd 40 a "B" and Allis wd-45 and tires were the least of my worries now wear out pressure gages checking pressure before work.
Designer lights where the cover costs 20 to 50 bucks made of brittle plastic.
Grill of this plastic web to protect the radiator or look good?
All the electronic sensors. why stick out side of block where the wiring is easy to be snatch off with a sapling or brush.
ken