Garage door opener installation

   / Garage door opener installation #53  
I bought two 8500's for my shop. I love them. As long as your door is balanced properly, they work great.
 
   / Garage door opener installation #54  
   / Garage door opener installation #55  
We have a two car wide garage door at our place, with a 1980's vintage opener: no safety eye or any backoff feature. There doesn't seem to be any garage door installers nearby.

I understand that installing one from scratch could commend professional help, but am I missing something or it would be fairly easy to do an upgrade by myself? Presumably I wouldn't have to touch anything but the unit itself.
 
   / Garage door opener installation #56  
We have a two car wide garage door at our place, with a 1980's vintage opener: no safety eye or any backoff feature. There doesn't seem to be any garage door installers nearby.

I understand that installing one from scratch could commend professional help, but am I missing something or it would be fairly easy to do an upgrade by myself? Presumably I wouldn't have to touch anything but the unit itself.

If your door tracks and springs are in good shape, opener installation should be really easy. You will want to replace the opener track (center) but that is really easy. The instructions will show you how to attach the nose to the wall and then support the new opener power unit on a stepladder or such while you hang it. It's a relatively easy one man job and a snap for two people. I've probably installed a half dozen openers by myself and never run into an issue. These openers that mount on the door frame look cool, but I'm pretty happy with conventional belt drive openers. My latest are Genie and I'm impressed with them.

After you disconnect the old opener, I would suggest adjusting the spring tension because it's probably lost some force over the years.
 
   / Garage door opener installation #57  
We have a two car wide garage door at our place, with a 1980's vintage opener: no safety eye or any backoff feature. There doesn't seem to be any garage door installers nearby.

I understand that installing one from scratch could commend professional help, but am I missing something or it would be fairly easy to do an upgrade by myself? Presumably I wouldn't have to touch anything but the unit itself.

You will probably need to do more than just the unit itself, depending on brackets/mounts/etc and any maintenance that should be done on the door (adjust or replace springs and any worn parts). I'd first make sure the door was rolling nice and smooth by hand with no obvious mechanical issues.

I think it's a very doable easy job, but always takes more time than I expect. If you are going to be adding safety eyes, that will take extra time to mount them to the bottom of the track or near the door opening and then string the wire if it's not already available. Sometimes the mounting can be fiddly -- I had to mount mine to the concrete footer wall so that meant getting a pack of blue concrete screws and the right bit -- so that took a trip to the store and more time than it would have in simpler cases.

As far as retrofit versus from scratch -- I think the time difference is probably a wash. You could run into a snag removing some of the old hardware on a retrofit and that will end up costing time, and old hardware may be worn and need replacement, whereas a new install wouldn't. On the other hand, last two installs I did on our new house took time because I had to correct errors made by the door installers, and then I had to do trial and error with the wiring at the opener to figure out which went to the wall control and which was for the safety eyes. Electricians should have marked the wires but didn't.
 
   / Garage door opener installation #58  
We have a two car wide garage door at our place, with a 1980's vintage opener: no safety eye or any backoff feature. There doesn't seem to be any garage door installers nearby.

I understand that installing one from scratch could commend professional help, but am I missing something or it would be fairly easy to do an upgrade by myself? Presumably I wouldn't have to touch anything but the unit itself.

Am I to understand that you have an opener from the 1980s that's still working, back in 97, in my old garage, I installed my first Sears opener, that one broke and replaced with another Sears brand in 05. don't know how long the next one would of lasted, garage is long gone now.

If your over head door still goes up and down easy, then your all set, when I installed my 10x10 door back in 96, I thought opener was easier to put in than the door, and back then, I didn't have YouTube, only duct tape and Red Green
 
   / Garage door opener installation #59  
I have the myQ adapter for internet access. used it once. went back and looked, the first one I bought is the 3500 and the 2nd one is the 8500. They look alike and built alike.
 
   / Garage door opener installation #60  
I agree, the springs are a doable job, but they are one of the few jobs I am *mega* careful about (another being working in a breaker panel close to live main lugs). It's a very low tech job, but could become extremely dangerous. I use two cut off pieces of rod stock (1/2" I think, 18" long) with the ends chamfered lightly, and keep two 1/4" wrenches handy for the set screws (if I only had one I'd lose it somehow). Stand on a 4' ladder and go slow and careful.

One thing I have found helpful is to paint horizontal stripes on the springs before adjusting them, so that later on you have a reference to work with when re-tensioning everything. Makes it easy to get back to where you started. Springs usually have some sort of factory striping but it's hard to see after some years and it's not always helpful for an already tensioned spring. Also make sure the door doesn't stick for any reason (paint, friction, etc) as that can really trick your tensioning work. I remember doing one door for a neighbor that was sticky the first 1-2 feet and then launched itself with too much force (actually shot back and up and rammed into the stops on the end of the track). We backed off the spring a little, but then had to fix his door gaskets to make it easy enough to raise without sticking.

The stripe that comes painted on or that you put on should become different bands across the spring as it is tensioned. So if you look at your door when it is fullly up, it has one stripe across it. And when it is all the way down you will have a group of stripes as they expand out with the tensioning of the spring. Approximately 1 group for each of height of the door for the proper spring. At least that is what a guy told me who did an adjustment/check to my doors that I won as part of a fund raiser auction.
 

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