what paint will hold up best

[2458n]

I always question TSC paint because they change suppliers all the time. Every year they have a different paint in their stores. The same as the choice in welders and chainsaws. How can you expect any support after the purchase?

 

[PILOON]

My standby paint product is TREMCLAD.
It is a good oil based product that stands up very well and meant for outdoors and metals.
Some locations can custom mix as well but not to automotive paint codes.
If the paint store has an optical scanner they can come real close.

For minor tasks Tremclad also can be had in rattle cans.

 

[sd455dan]

Imron =great stuff. But do NOT take any chances on doing anything with it w/out proper respirator. Guy in paint shop next to my foreign car shop literally dropped dead on the floor from using it over time with no breathing apparatus. Smoker too.
Good luck- be careful.

Had a friend that painted a lot- but had never used Imron .
the job was to shoot a Harley tank and fenders.
He got about 2/3 of the tank painted and collapsed, he barely crawled out of the paint booth and never shot Imron again . This was in a paint booth and with a disposable respirator.

His account scared me enough to never shoot Imron. The guy died a few years ago at age 58?? ]

I have used the Nason 2 k Urethane line though.

 

[ray66v]

There is absolutely NOTHING special about Imron today.

Yes, 40 years ago, it was the first true urethane paint. And, it was different from other paints.

Today, every major paint company has a high end product, that is just about as good as the other. All are FAR superior to the original Imron product.

I worked in the business for 35 years, and sprayed them all. Including the original Imron product, which had some serious short comings. It was very slow drying, especially in colder temps, was really bad smelling for days, and was not easy to repair, without wrinkling. It had one advantage, it held a very high gloss.

Could it actually meet the, "bullet proof" standard everyone believes it had, or has? Nope. Even today, no high gloss automotive refinish product is anywhere near bullet proof.

Much of the durability in a finish, has more to do with what is used under the paint, and getting the undercoats, and top coats, to bond together on a molecular level. It's a little complicated, and a lot expensive.

 

[Coyote machine]

What Ray66v said. There is no reason to use Imron today, unless you have a death wish. It's old tech and can easily be beat by today's products.
TSC paint?! No way! They can't even keep the same rattle can on their shelves. Bogus. Not a paint store. Wheelbarrow touch-up, possibly. Anything else, forget it. JMHO.:thumbdown:

 

[The Fred]

I think for the homeowner or enthusiast Rustoleum is hard to beat on implements.

I would never use it on a car body that must look great or fancy schmancy hood on my Kubota but for using this paint only with no primer underneath it holds up darn well.

I sprayed the bottom pan of my 67 VW bug after sandblasting it back in 1990 (yup 25 years ago) and to this day it looks great! Cheap and hard to beat, very durable.

Regards, Fred

 

[TomSeller]

I saw a presentation on Enecon products for industry. Mind boggling the number of coating and repair products. I doubt is is very available at retail, but I have not had a chance to check. Industrial Coatings | Corrosion Protection : ENECON Corporation

 

[ray66v]

What Ray66v said. There is no reason to use Imron today, unless you have a death wish. It's old tech and can easily be beat by today's products.

Actually, it's not that it's old technology, it has evolved over the last 40 years. My point was, it's not unique. Every major paint company has the ability to chemically analyze a competitors product, and make a version of it. I have met the people who do that for a living. And, I have tested products for them over the years. Nothing that is actually new, and different, stays that way for more than a year.

Most people cannot afford to use any of these top shelf products on home projects, they are ridiculously expensive.

There are middle of the road products, that will work well for you, and not break the bank. There may be one, that bears the Imron name. I am not up on the latest marketing gimmicks.

As far as toxicity, TSC paint, with the optional isocyanate hardener, is probably just as toxic as Imron.

Even without the hardener, industrial enamel is a can full of poison. Most people will not feel any affect from using it improperly. But, it's a real good idea, to learn the proper ways to protect yourself from chemicals, and limit your exposure to them. You may indeed be the one who is adversely affected by them.

 

[davesl708]

I think for the homeowner or enthusiast Rustoleum is hard to beat on implements.

I would never use it on a car body that must look great or fancy schmancy hood on my Kubota but for using this paint only with no primer underneath it holds up darn well.

I sprayed the bottom pan of my 67 VW bug after sandblasting it back in 1990 (yup 25 years ago) and to this day it looks great! Cheap and hard to beat, very durable.

Regards, Fred

I have to agree with Fred. I was given a 1933 Remington Trap Thrower in 1980. I prepped it primed with Rustoleum and exterior gloss black.
the thrower has been used in all weather and still has a high gloss finish. Rattle can has its use and for the basic stuff works great.
Clean and prep is King when painting.

 

[woodchipper]

Painting tractor and backhoe with a spray gun, enamel or single stage urethane. pros and cons would be great

Your best paint is an industrial lead based paint. I do not know if lead based paints are still made and/or allowed.
If you could sand blast your metal in the firtst place, it will provide you with the best adhesion possible. Use a degreaser first, followed by a conditioner, followed by a base primer, followed by your actual paint coat, and to finish with a lacquer.
I would recommend you go to your local NAPA Body Shop supplies store, and grab all you need from them. They will sale you the good stuff.
But keep in mind that the quality of the finished paint job, is as good as the quality of the prep job. Do not let humidity contact bear metal at all costs.