what paint will hold up best

[ray66v]

I have to agree with Fred. I was given a 1933 Remington Trap Thrower in 1980. I prepped it primed with Rustoleum and exterior gloss black.
the thrower has been used in all weather and still has a high gloss finish. Rattle can has its use and for the basic stuff works great.
Clean and prep is King when painting.

There is a time and a place for Rustoleum.

Rustoleum is industrial enamel.

Industrial enamel is the cheapest oil paint you can buy. The solvents used in it, are low quality. So, it takes along time for them to evaporate, and therefore, a long time to cure. If you use it right it, industrial enamel can be useful.

There are some fleet paints, that are only about twice as expensive as industrial enamel, but are much higher quality.

 

[crazyal]

Your best paint is an industrial lead based paint. I do not know if lead based paints are still made and/or allowed.
If you could sand blast your metal in the firtst place, it will provide you with the best adhesion possible. Use a degreaser first, followed by a conditioner, followed by a base primer, followed by your actual paint coat, and to finish with a lacquer.
I would recommend you go to your local NAPA Body Shop supplies store, and grab all you need from them. They will sale you the good stuff.
But keep in mind that the quality of the finished paint job, is as good as the quality of the prep job. Do not let humidity contact bear metal at all costs.

The lead in the primer has been replaced with Zinc. Property prepared surfaces with industrial paints will last a long time. Just look at bridges and the punishment they take. Sherwin Williams carries industrial paint. If you have a store close by go ask them for options.

 

[PILOON]

About 8 years ago I sand blasted my 60" blower and immediately primed it with Tremclad grey primer.
A few days later I sprayed with Tremclad red.

That's 8 YEARS and today the primer is still almost 100% coverage and the red a bit less, mainly worn in the chute area (normal due to sand and gravel).
What I do is in spring I 'rattle can' the bare areas just to prevent rust pitting.
In cold winter NO RUST occurs as it is too cold and the rattle can film prevents any rust to happen.
Sure, the first snow event happens and all the rattle can paint disappears but I am left with shiny metal that the snow does not adhere to.

What you absolutely want to avoid is PITTED metal as that is what the snow/slush will grab onto.

I also notice that powder coated surfaces flake and rust/pitting forms behind the flaked 'skins'.

Just my 2 cents based on 20+ years of snow removal.

 

[varmint]

I would be considered a hack painter by most of these guys, but even I have had great results from spraying epoxy primer, followed by using Kubota's paint. I was surprised at how well it covered, and the final results were "good as factory" new. Like as been stated over and over, 90 % is in the prep and cleaning work. I used el cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP guns, thinned with the appropriate product.

 

[shallowwatersailor]

I agree about powder-coated paint. It seems hard but the least little nick allows moisture in and it starts flaking. It is also very difficult to remove the remaining paint when repainting.

 

[ZAR2USA]

German marine engines (MTU/MAN)) and others get painted with Imron, because Imron resists fuels, oils and chemicals better than other paints.

 

[ZAR2USA]

After 12 years of working with Powder Coating, I have stopped using it. Too many issues for me.

Favorite long term paint is epoxy (2 part paints), but you have to be careful to mix well, control temp and humidity. Best adhesion and bond.

For quick touch ups or prevent rust I use Rustoleum Professional "Reddish Brown" primer. My favorite and toughest primer. I don't even apply topcoats or other paint over it. All my tools and equipment have a touch of that color on it.

 

[ZAR2USA]

On my L3200 exhaust manifold, muffler and other engine parts, I use 1200 degrees black rattle can spray paint. It dries mat grey, and blends in perfectly. Looks better than factory and zero rust or exposed metals.

 

[The Fred]

There are some fleet paints, that are only about twice as expensive as industrial enamel, but are much higher quality.

Ray you have many years in the industry, can you recommend an industrial paint that is priced decently?

Thanks, Fred

 

[ray66v]

I agree about powder-coated paint. It seems hard but the least little nick allows moisture in and it starts flaking. It is also very difficult to remove the remaining paint when repainting.

In case you are not familiar with this, to remove powder coat: Rough up the surface with coarse sand paper, and apply paint stripper. It will wrinkle right up.

Yes, the bond between the powder coating, and the metal is weak. Some have not come to that realization yet.