what paint will hold up best

/ what paint will hold up best #41  
I have to agree with Fred. I was given a 1933 Remington Trap Thrower in 1980. I prepped it primed with Rustoleum and exterior gloss black.
the thrower has been used in all weather and still has a high gloss finish. Rattle can has its use and for the basic stuff works great.
Clean and prep is King when painting.

There is a time and a place for Rustoleum.

Rustoleum is industrial enamel.

Industrial enamel is the cheapest oil paint you can buy. The solvents used in it, are low quality. So, it takes along time for them to evaporate, and therefore, a long time to cure. If you use it right it, industrial enamel can be useful.

There are some fleet paints, that are only about twice as expensive as industrial enamel, but are much higher quality.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #42  
Your best paint is an industrial lead based paint. I do not know if lead based paints are still made and/or allowed.
If you could sand blast your metal in the firtst place, it will provide you with the best adhesion possible. Use a degreaser first, followed by a conditioner, followed by a base primer, followed by your actual paint coat, and to finish with a lacquer.
I would recommend you go to your local NAPA Body Shop supplies store, and grab all you need from them. They will sale you the good stuff.
But keep in mind that the quality of the finished paint job, is as good as the quality of the prep job. Do not let humidity contact bear metal at all costs.

The lead in the primer has been replaced with Zinc. Property prepared surfaces with industrial paints will last a long time. Just look at bridges and the punishment they take. Sherwin Williams carries industrial paint. If you have a store close by go ask them for options.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #43  
About 8 years ago I sand blasted my 60" blower and immediately primed it with Tremclad grey primer.
A few days later I sprayed with Tremclad red.

That's 8 YEARS and today the primer is still almost 100% coverage and the red a bit less, mainly worn in the chute area (normal due to sand and gravel).
What I do is in spring I 'rattle can' the bare areas just to prevent rust pitting.
In cold winter NO RUST occurs as it is too cold and the rattle can film prevents any rust to happen.
Sure, the first snow event happens and all the rattle can paint disappears but I am left with shiny metal that the snow does not adhere to.

What you absolutely want to avoid is PITTED metal as that is what the snow/slush will grab onto.

I also notice that powder coated surfaces flake and rust/pitting forms behind the flaked 'skins'.

Just my 2 cents based on 20+ years of snow removal.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #44  
I would be considered a hack painter by most of these guys, but even I have had great results from spraying epoxy primer, followed by using Kubota's paint. I was surprised at how well it covered, and the final results were "good as factory" new. Like as been stated over and over, 90 % is in the prep and cleaning work. I used el cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP guns, thinned with the appropriate product.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #45  
I agree about powder-coated paint. It seems hard but the least little nick allows moisture in and it starts flaking. It is also very difficult to remove the remaining paint when repainting.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #46  
German marine engines (MTU/MAN)) and others get painted with Imron, because Imron resists fuels, oils and chemicals better than other paints.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #47  
After 12 years of working with Powder Coating, I have stopped using it. Too many issues for me.

Favorite long term paint is epoxy (2 part paints), but you have to be careful to mix well, control temp and humidity. Best adhesion and bond.

For quick touch ups or prevent rust I use Rustoleum Professional "Reddish Brown" primer. My favorite and toughest primer. I don't even apply topcoats or other paint over it. All my tools and equipment have a touch of that color on it.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #48  
On my L3200 exhaust manifold, muffler and other engine parts, I use 1200 degrees black rattle can spray paint. It dries mat grey, and blends in perfectly. Looks better than factory and zero rust or exposed metals.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #49  
There are some fleet paints, that are only about twice as expensive as industrial enamel, but are much higher quality.


Ray you have many years in the industry, can you recommend an industrial paint that is priced decently?

Thanks, Fred
 
/ what paint will hold up best #50  
I agree about powder-coated paint. It seems hard but the least little nick allows moisture in and it starts flaking. It is also very difficult to remove the remaining paint when repainting.

In case you are not familiar with this, to remove powder coat: Rough up the surface with coarse sand paper, and apply paint stripper. It will wrinkle right up.

Yes, the bond between the powder coating, and the metal is weak. Some have not come to that realization yet.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #51  
The exhaust paint reminded me: I have used a graphite none-stick paint on my tractor exhausts, and it seems to hold up forever. Looks good, too- much like the original paint. It came from a farm supply store, and I tried it because I had it open for another job. Heat doesn't seem to bother it.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #52  
Ray you have many years in the industry, can you recommend an industrial paint that is priced decently?
Thanks, Fred

Sure.

I have used the urethane AIC product: AIC. You have to go to a Sherwin Williams automotive store to get it. So, you need to check if it is available in your area.

Sherwin Williams liked it so much, they actually bought the company. I liked it too.

I used it on some airplane parts. I wanted to use automotive paint, but could not find the color I needed. They came out great, and it has held up perfectly.

This is a true urethane paint, that is reasonably priced. I do not know the current prices. But, I bought a pint a few years ago, for under $10. The reducer is acetone, so you can literately buy a $2 bottle of nail polish remover, and use it, (I did). The bad news is, since this is meant for fleet work, they only sold the hardener in quarts. And, that will run you probably $80. They may have added hardener in pints, since then. But, I doubt it.

If you are planning to do enough painting to use most, or all of a quart of hardener, (that would be gallons of paint), than spending $80 is not such a big deal. Once opened, a can of hardener has a limited shelf life. If it is kept tightly sealed, and cool, you may get 2 or more years out of it. if it is kept loosely sealed, and in a hot environment, it may only last 6 months.

Like most low end products, it's slow drying in cooler weather. But, it is much faster than Rustoleum. And, much higher quality

If you have an inferred heater, it will help greatly.

Painting this stuff in the summer, even outside in the sun, on the right day, would be great.

A step up from that is, Sherwin Williams Ultra one, single stage urethane. It dries fast, and is not real cheap. But, it's not crazy expensive. The same product is available at NAPA paint stores, under the Martin Senior brand, as Tec One. This stuff only costs a couple bucks more than acrylic enamel. And, is a much better product. This is what I actually wanted to use on those airplane parts I mentioned.

Many will suggest acrylic enamel, which is okay, if you like 50 year old technology. But, that is senseless, when for a few dollars more, you can use the current technology.

You can also see what your local body shop supply stores have. There are lots of low end products available now, that are decent. Ask the local stores what they have, and use Google, to see if people like it.

Buy a fresh disposable paint respirator, ($15-$20), and put it and gloves on, before you even open a can of issocyanate hardener, to mix the paint. When you finish painting, clean up, and leave the area, before removing the respirator. Keep it in a sealed container. You can get about 40 hours of use out of one of these, if you treat it right.

Also keep in mind that, paint off gasses toxic fumes for at least 24 hours after you spray it. So, either wear a respirator, or ventilate the area well, if you enter. Bringing the family in the garage to show off your handy work, while these fumes are still present, is not such a good idea.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #53  
The exhaust paint reminded me: I have used a graphite none-stick paint on my tractor exhausts, and it seems to hold up forever. Looks good, too- much like the original paint. It came from a farm supply store, and I tried it because I had it open for another job. Heat doesn't seem to bother it.

That's great. Name of paint, please.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #56  
Zar2usa, Can't access any of your attachments...
 
/ what paint will hold up best #58  
Zar2usa, Can't access any of your attachments...

It must be an issue with the site. I loaded pics but after posting it they disappeared. I tried two separate posts. Maybe one of the mods could help, if not I will try and repost tomorrow again. I never experienced it before.
 
/ what paint will hold up best #60  
It must be an issue with the site. I loaded pics but after posting it they disappeared. I tried two separate posts. Maybe one of the mods could help, if not I will try and repost tomorrow again. I never experienced it before.

The same is happening to me. I am using the Ipad app.
 

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