what paint will hold up best

[timswi]

I pretty much paint all vehicles except ground contact stuff with PPG Deltron DAU or DBU depending on what I'm doing..Love that stuff.

 

[strum456]

I use epoxy primer on every metal part I paint. IMO, nothing compares to epoxy. Nothing is even in the same ball park.

 

[TomSeller]

It must be an issue with the site. I loaded pics but after posting it they disappeared. I tried two separate posts. Maybe one of the mods could help, if not I will try and repost tomorrow again. I never experienced it before.

Or maybe just give us the name, we can google it.

 

[ZAR2USA]

 

[ZAR2USA]

 

[drizler]

I use epoxy primer on every metal part I paint. IMO, nothing compares to epoxy. Nothing is even in the same ball park.

I entirely agree. There is nothing that comes close to epoxy, especially for places subjected to abuse. It's only problem (and it isn't really because you should do it anyways, is scuffing) Sure it'll "cross link " or whatever fancy term they use to say production lines can skip a process. Still all that cool chemical nonsense aside once it';s hard give it that extra step of lightly sanding with 400 wet or dry paper (the black stuff you can dunk in water) dry it and clean it again then topcoat. That extra little step will absolutely assure your top coat won't come off. This powder coating one-step crap:thumbdown: that everybody is using in production these days is nowhere near as tough, just cheaper to produce.

 

[strum456]

I entirely agree. There is nothing that comes close to epoxy, especially for places subjected to abuse. It's only problem (and it isn't really because you should do it anyways, is scuffing) Sure it'll "cross link " or whatever fancy term they use to say production lines can skip a process. Still all that cool chemical nonsense aside once it';s hard give it that extra step of lightly sanding with 400 wet or dry paper (the black stuff you can dunk in water) dry it and clean it again then topcoat. That extra little step will absolutely assure your top coat won't come off. This powder coating one-step crap:thumbdown: that everybody is using in production these days is nowhere near as tough, just cheaper to produce.

I agree. When painting over epoxy, I always spray a thin reduced coat of epoxy a couple hours before base or whatever paint I'm using. Most would call this a sealer, but it is just reduced epoxy to help adhesion. If the epoxy underneath is more than a few days old, then it will need to be scuffed, but I would still spray a reduced sealer coat.

The problem with the poweder coat on most equipment these days is the lack of surface prep. I find myself blasting new equipment and repainting it when it is new, because it is easier than dealing with rust and flaking powder coat later on.

 

[varmint]

The graphite paint I used is called E Z Slide, and I think I bought it a TSC store. Maybe $12 a quart?

 

[AGRIMAN]

I also notice that powder coated surfaces flake and rust/pitting forms behind the flaked 'skins'.

Powder Coating is no different than any other method of painting, if you don't prep the surface correctly you will have problems. If you are having issues with flaking, I will guarantee you it can be tracked back to either poor surface prep or no primer was used.

A Zirconium pretreatment followed by a zinc primer undercoat will stop any rust from forming underneath the powder in the event its scratched/damaged. Sandblasting is also an important part of proper prep, but you would be surprised how many people skip one or all of these steps.

 

[AGRIMAN]

After 12 years of working with Powder Coating, I have stopped using it. Too many issues for me.

What sort of issues are you having?