Truck Lumber Rack

pohorsky · Mar 15, 2015

Several years ago, we bought and 89 F250 with a lumber rack. After not having a back bar and trying to make due, I think its time to bite the bullet and buy or make one. Any ideas for the diameter/ thickness of the tube?

BHD · Mar 15, 2015

I am guessing you mean by lumber rack is the same as ladder rack, head rack,

first I would use square tubing,
probably about 1.25" and at least 10 gauge, probably use a light angle iron cap ing the bed.

and I would make some angles to weld in the corners, for some stability,

most likely a .75" square tube for the truss on top,
some thing like this, truck rack, California

here is close to what I would build, (red rack)

or you could just use your wife's car,

pappy60 · Mar 15, 2015

Have a shell on my pickup... many times needed to haul longer ladders...
wish I had thought of building a rack AROUND the shell like the link shows...
Will definitely do it on next pickup with a shell on it...
Thanks BHD..

pohorsky · Mar 15, 2015

This is what is there right now. You would say 1.25" for the missing back bar?

pappy60 · Mar 15, 2015

Use the same as the front bar... just be sure to fit & weld it properly..

newbury · Mar 15, 2015

pohorsky said:
This is what is there right now. You would say 1.25" for the missing back bar? View attachment 416825

Do you occasionally load things that will bump a bar on the back?

I do, like a chipper or bandsaw or tall furniture. I made the back bar removable by undoing 6 bolts. Several times I've undone it then redone it for the drive. You could put a 4x4 or a metal bar across the back held on by ubolts, thus removable.

BHD · Mar 16, 2015

I would make the rear bar removable, bolt it in

Sodo · Mar 16, 2015

416825d1426467914-truck-lumber-rack-truck-jpg

Yes removeable is the best, handiest. I'd make the rear crossbar with two smaller round pipes extending "forward". These are about 2 inches long and plug into the holes of your top bar. Insert the bar and drill a hole in each side. Then you don't need a wrench, or bolts, all you need is a couple pins like this.

It depends how much load you need to haul with it. If it's almost strong enough for what you do, (as is) then a pinned rear bar will make it stronger. If you intend to support heavy loads with it, you don't want any looseness at this joint, for that case will need a bolted and gusseted rear crossbar. This kind of stuff is difficult to assess on the internet.

TnAndy · Mar 16, 2015

Tell ya something you may, or may not know about trucks now days. The beds taper, front to back. The back is SEVERAL inches more narrow on my 2003 Silverado than the front. They LOOK the same width.......they ain't.

Yeah... I measured one end, and not the other one, when I built my rack......remove, cuss, cut, re-fab.......ahahahaaaaaa

SO, measure BOTH if you decide to build it !

jimmysisson · Mar 16, 2015

Andy's right, measure both ends. Agree on the removable rear bar, otherwise you'll need a new refrigerator within a week and the delivery charge will be $125. My rear pipe is 1¼" with 3/16"? walls - good and heavy. I used to haul staging planks and the young guys liked to tip them on end and drop them on the rear bar. I welded a couple small tabs just under where the bar sat to hold it up, and a couple tabs going forward that were pinned into the rails. Works slick, as long as you remember to reassemble everything before driving off...
Jim