logging winch build

   / logging winch build #11  
Then there is the electric clutches used for air-conditioning in cars or again those used on riding mowers when a snow blower is front mounted.
Naturally when not engaged they then free wheel so a brake would be needed.

There are also larger electric clutches on combines that operate the unloading auger. This is just in case you think that an AC clutch might be a bit light.
 
   / logging winch build #12  
There a lot of workshops for clutch and brakes but you have look for industrial suppliers.
 
   / logging winch build #13  
You could just buy a clutch from a Fransgard V3000, that's the plate on the picture.
 
   / logging winch build #14  
The clutch has to handle 50 - 60 HK on such a winch, so it must be quite solid made.
 
   / logging winch build #15  
Due to the high ratios involved it takes a lot less of a clutch than you think.
In fact you could almost use your hand to act a a holding brake by gripping the input shaft.

Example is also a hand crank boat winch, you can pull a 2-3000 lb boat with a simple hand crank.

Another thought: PTO slip clutch as used for a bush hog mower!

They use some springs to create the friction and are adjustable plus mount inline on the pto shaft.
Just design some sort of cam and or lever to add or release the pressure and you would be good to go.
I'd envision a 'Y' or 'U' attached to a pivot point with 2 bearings or possibly even brass pads to apply pressure to the floating slip clutch plate.
I think there are definite possibilities there.
 
   / logging winch build #16  
Logging winches are fast, at 540 rpm they pull so fast they are almost frightening.
You can't compare them to ordinary winches.
 
   / logging winch build #17  
I have a 55hp tractor and if i pull large trees with branches in deep snow the tractor pulls so hard I have to release the clutch to let it regain RPM, if not i would stall it.
 
   / logging winch build #18  
Due to the high ratios involved it takes a lot less of a clutch than you think.
In fact you could almost use your hand to act a a holding brake by gripping the input shaft.

Example is also a hand crank boat winch, you can pull a 2-3000 lb boat with a simple hand crank.

Another thought: PTO slip clutch as used for a bush hog mower!

They use some springs to create the friction and are adjustable plus mount inline on the pto shaft.
Just design some sort of cam and or lever to add or release the pressure and you would be good to go.
I'd envision a 'Y' or 'U' attached to a pivot point with 2 bearings or possibly even brass pads to apply pressure to the floating slip clutch plate.
I think there are definite possibilities there.

Piloon

You are certainly thinking of a "winch" design quite different than the type referenced in the original post.

The wire pull forces are tremendous. (at times breaking the wire rope) The tractor PTO torque is AMPLIFIED via the 4 or 5 to one sprocket ratios. The wire drum drive clutch needs to handle the full tractor power. That takes a large area on a large diameter. Hand holding is not an option ;-)

ps, I've thought to make a simplified logging winch style cable pulling unit. I've studied the designs of the major brands, and one would be hard pressed to better the established designs.

I picked up a PTO input shaft recently (ebay) and am gathering bearings etc to suit. With plate steel selling for what it does, the cost of frame , drum chain and sprockets will push the project over the "oh well, if it doesn't work, I'll just make it over again" barrier. ;-)
 
   / logging winch build #19  
You can request free plans for the "Bitterroot mini yarder" from the us forest service. Why have just one drum of cable when you can have two? Not the same weight but you can work off the idea.

Then there is always using an old manure spreader beater drive.
 
   / logging winch build #20  
sometimes we overthink things. Worm drives winches are not a good type of winch for logging as when you come up tight you cannot release them. Friction winches like the farmi are great and so is they're expense for the home builder.
Using rearends and stopping one side thereby making the other side pull twice as fast making it tougher on the tractor is one option. To me, using that kind of method as rearends are easy to come by, weld up the spider gears so you have at least a 4 to 1 reduction, bolt a drum on where a rim would be with a carrier bearing on the outside of the drum, and put a ratchet type of lock on it. Pull your load in, lock the drum, take the pto out of gear on go on your way.
 
 
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