Traction Using a Tractor on Mountain Property

[cartod]

There do appear to be 'perhaps misprints' with the tire dimensions??? I've heard a lot about a backhoe being a less necessary attachment, but I keep going over it in my head and actually think it's more important for me than the FEL. I mean, how else am I going to get rid of all those 4-foot-high humps of dirt throughout the woods (presumably left over from the original clearing of the land, building of the house)? We need that dirt in other places! With mountain property, you always need dirt, for leveling. And you can't buy it; I've tried. We're so remote there are no subdivisions, so no basements being dug, so no "free fill dirt" or indeed at any price! I do keep thinking about the "just rent a tractor a few weeks a year" idea and have to ask: Why don't you do that?

A backhoe is really not a necessary purchase for removing and moving dirt, save yourself $10,000! A front loader is 10 times more efficient when coupled with a box blade at moving earth.

Unless you plan on digging ditches don't waste your money at the beginning on a hoe. With the setup I just mentioned you "can move mountains". If you decide later that a back hoe is needed you can rent one for a weekend or borrow mine that sits about 90% of the time in the barn.

 

[SpringHollow]

My swinging mini hoe is my most used implement and a reasonable compromise to a true backhoe attachment. I use it mainly as a grapple for use with logs or rocks. Invaluable for how I use my tractor. I have dug a fair amount of trenches and post holes with a mini hoe as well. For serious backhoe work like digging a basement, rent or hire it out.

Ken

 

[vtsnowedin]

I wish I could use a tractor set up like "vtsnowedin", darn thing looks as wide as it is long. No way I could navigate my tight spots dotted around my property. Guess that is why he owns two different sizes.:thumbsup:

No one is a lawn mower and one is a tractor. I like to use the right tool for the job. The 5045E is sixteen feet long from bucket lip to 3PH pins and just under eight feet wide out to out on the rears so it is quite a way from square. If I need to go between two trees that are less then eight feet apart I can and have cut the lessor of them and put it into the wood pile. Ten or twelve feet apart is a good spacing for trees and I have no tight spots between buildings I need to go through. If I was doing a lot of row crop work I would change the tread setting to match the row widths but as I spend a lot of time in the woods I like it the way it is. I did unzip and remove the back panel of the soft cab yesterday to have an unobstructed view of the two bottom plow as I was plowing a food plot.

 

[Gary Fowler]

A backhoe is really not a necessary purchase for removing and moving dirt, save yourself $10,000! A front loader is 10 times more efficient when coupled with a box blade at moving earth.

Unless you plan on digging ditches don't waste your money at the beginning on a hoe. With the setup I just mentioned you "can move mountains". If you decide later that a back hoe is needed you can rent one for a weekend or borrow mine that sits about 90% of the time in the barn.

I agree that a backhoe is not a necessary purchase, BUT, they are sure nice to have. I didn't realize how much use I would get from mine when I bought it. To put into perspective, I have a 5 year old 70 HP Utility tractor with FEL that has 120 Hours on it. I bought my used B26 TLB Kubota in 2011 with 60 hours on it and now has 350 hours. I use it for everything thing but bush hogging (once a year activity), prepping up the garden by disking, tilling and rowing up. Everything else I do with the TLB. Mine has a hydraulic thumb on the hoe and I can use it to pick up rocks both large as a wheelbarrow and small as a softball plus lift trees for piling, lift them up for cutting into firewood sizes pieces etc. A backhoe can be used for lots of stuff other than just digging when properly equipped. Mine was definitely worth the price that I paid for it. The only bad thing I can say about the Kubota B26 is that the tires cant be moved on it, they are set at the widest on the dish and are pretty narrow tracked at that (about 4 feet ) so it is a bit tippy on the sideways hill.

If you have the need for a backhoe AND the money, then get one because they are very handy attachments. Just make sure that what you get can be removed easily AND that you get 3 point hitch arms with it. Also be aware that most backhoes with a sub-frame wont be compatible with a belly mower. You would have to use a rear finish mower with it and that would require removing the back hoe. On my B26 it is at most a 5 minute job to get the back hoe off, but at least 10 minutes to put on the 3 PH arms. I am not sure if this is correct when speaking of the Kubota Bx25 though, and not all models of tractors are even available with a mid-PTO shaft.

 

[flusher]

For low center of gravity, you want a straddle tractor like my 1964 MF135 diesel. Your legs straddle the transmission/drive train with your feet below the top of the transmission. The other type of tractor is the platform tractor that has the pedals above the transmission so you sit higher on the tractor making for a higher CG.



That 135 has been modified. The 28" diameter rear rims have been replaced by 16" diameter rims and the front wheel spindles have been shortened to keep the tractor level. The wide rear tires are 18-16 size.

Other older straddle tractors include the Ford 8N, Ford Jubilee, Massey Ferguson MF65, 150, 165, Ford 1000, 2000 and 3000 series.

The Case/IH JX is a modern straddle tractor.



Good luck and be careful on those slopes.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

One additional way to increase safety on any terrain is to work with 2 way radios AND a cell phone when using any machinery that has the potential to maim or kill you.
If you could post some pics of your land and it's biggest challenges that could help us help advise you further.

Thank you very much for the advice. Scary stories. My worst fear is dropping the tractor into the big pond (14 ft deep).

We have always had two unbreakable rules when operating ANY kind of power equipment:

1) Never unless someone else is there on the property.
2) Always carry the cell phone.

(We have a lot of bear so we even carry a cell when walking in the wooded areas.)

I do intend to post some pics of the project areas, and I look forward to hearing your ideas.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I looked at the PT. Impressive little critters for sure. Kitted up it's about the same cost as the Mahindra though.....

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

It is right there in my info under my avatar. It is a 2012 JD 5045E with a 553 loader. the spacers are JD dealer installed 4.1 inch each side. Cost me $27,350 as shown and the 72" cutter was another $2K The tranny is nine F 3R gear partially synchronized so you can shift up or down while moving but not shift ranges until a full stop. The JD lawn tractor has been sold and replaced with a new one. I forget which exact model. It stays up at my daughters house and the girls have been doing all the lawn mowing so I haven't touched it in over a year. That may change as One daughter has moved to Atlanta and the other is moving to Maryland so I will end up being house maintenance man and lawn boy.

Was just kidding you. I guess I meant all the little mods and tricks you used to make it all-terrain capable. Sounds like an ideal rig but out of my price range, probably even used.

 

[Creamer]

From all the OP has mentioned I am envisioning a Powertrac type of machine for all its versatility and slope capability as maneuverability between the trees. She also seems very concerned about lawn damage. These little guys are very capable machines and will handle the jobs she has mentioned very well. They also will give her reduced risk and - as mentioned - "pucker factor" for the tasks she has mentioned.

If these are not enough because she wants to move bigger logs I would go a low profile 30-40 hp CUT and put on wide tires but not duals. Duals may be an option but the do reduce maneuverability and in tight turns tear up lawns. She mentioned moving dirt - that is an FEL job. The FEL is not a liability if it is used correctly and will be a great asset in dirt moving. I find that on my 1710 without loaded tires is more stable with the FEL on - scoop low of course. I have even added some dirt in one side of the scoop for additional stability on a side hill. Tires like the MF135 pictures above would be great.

 

[Creamer]

View attachment 422564View attachment 422565

Now that is a cute little tractor! I like the wide, low stance!