Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor

   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #51  
As for the owners manual, nothing about trailering, only allow turbo to cool down before stopping engine 3 to 5 minutes at idle.

And this cooldown,,,,, is only necessary if you've been making it put out horsepower with a capital H, like plowing, cultivating etc. Pretty much full RPM usage. Turbo gets hot when you pour the coal to it.

If you shut down abruptly when HOT the radiator can boil over too, so anyway it's nothing new. An example might be that while you are plowing at full throttle and the phone rings, and you have to shut OFF the engine so you can hear the phone. You should idle it for 3-5 minutes instead, and call the guy back.

You don't have to sit there and wait,,,, for example if you were just traveling back to the barn (or any other low RPM, low power, (=low exhaust manifold pressure) usage).
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #52  
It was mentioned earlier that air could not flow thru the engine because the throttle plate would stop it, the fact is that 99% of Diesel engines do not have any throttle plate whatsoever.
The only diesel engine I ever came across was a 70's Mercedes that needed engine vacuum to power the brakes.

It would be tough to find absolute proof that transporting uncovered would cause damage, the failure would not be immediate.
The idea that the rotor spinning at low revs burns up the turbo is wrong, but is it possible that the shaft journal or bearing surface be damaged even in the slightest. Would this not shorten the life of the turbo when it sees 100,000 rpm?
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #53  
One thing I remember about turbos from the old days is that they could "coke" oil just by spinning without sufficient lubrication pressure and/or cooling, and this could happen to a turbo if an engine was shut down abruptly. Old-timers will probably remember letting turbo engines idle down before shutting them off.

I am sure most of that problem was due to the turbo already being super hot (the housings can get dull cherry red in normal use), so I doubt this could happen on a cool turbo being towed with wind blowing back across the rotor vanes. But it reinforces that the turbos and bearings and their passages are dainty.

In later years, the problem was solved (at least on cars/trucks, not sure about tractors) by providing the ability for coolant and/or oil to keep passivley circulating to the bearings (coolant loop may have a thermal siphon backup loop or design built in).

My brother has over 300k on his 300 Turbo Diesel Mercedes and always lets it idle down after coming up the very steep 2 mile pull to his home...

Must be doing something right?
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #54  
99% of Diesel engines do not have any throttle plate whatsoever.

thx for clarifying that.

Would this not shorten the life of the turbo when it sees 100,000 rpm?

Everybody knows even if it did turn it's not even a blip on a turbo's wicked duty cycle to handle cool, lazy rotation,,,,

I don't believe that it turns at all, but,,,, lazy, cool rotation could possibly extend the life of the turbo. Ain't this something - all this cuz nobody can tell if the turbo actually turns while towing.
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #55  
I want to hear what the mighty KUBOTA says about this. I bet they dont care.
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #56  
Better cover up that exhaust when it is sitting outside too. Never know when the wind will blow... :laughing:

Of course, covering up the exhaust (if it point up, unlike mine) is probably a good idea for other reasons...
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #57  
I remember growing up when the local John Deere dealer had several new big tractors with turbos delivered. The turbos were all bad. If I recall, they had straight cut exhaust pipes pointing up above cab. It was determined that the airflow over the open pipe caused the turbos to turn fast enough to ruin the bearings during shipping (hundreds if not thousands of miles). The next year, all new tractors arrived with covers on the exhaust pipes. I never heard of the issue again.

I would not worry about it local travel, but if I was hauling my tractor very far at highway/freeway speeds with minimal stops, I would just cover it and not worry. Even easier for me since mine does not have a turbo.

If I needed to cover it, I would simply use a empty tin can the right size, drill a hole for bungee cord hook to grab it and hook somewhere so it does not fall off. Doesn't matter if exhaust is hot or not.
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #59  
It was mentioned earlier that air could not flow thru the engine because the throttle plate would stop it, the fact is that 99% of Diesel engines do not have any throttle plate whatsoever.
The only diesel engine I ever came across was a 70's Mercedes that needed engine vacuum to power the brakes.

It would be tough to find absolute proof that transporting uncovered would cause damage, the failure would not be immediate.
The idea that the rotor spinning at low revs burns up the turbo is wrong, but is it possible that the shaft journal or bearing surface be damaged even in the slightest. Would this not shorten the life of the turbo when it sees 100,000 rpm?

Very well stated. I agree that it would be extremely hard to prove. But, there are those that will offer up their first born child that it's happened.

Lastly, I think your estimated life of a turbo at 100,000 rpms is at least four zeros short. :)
 
   / Best way to trailer turbo'd tractor #60  
I remember growing up when the local John Deere dealer had several new big tractors with turbos delivered. The turbos were all bad. If I recall, they had straight cut exhaust pipes pointing up above cab. It was determined that the airflow over the open pipe caused the turbos to turn fast enough to ruin the bearings during shipping (hundreds if not thousands of miles). The next year, all new tractors arrived with covers on the exhaust pipes. I never heard of the issue again.

I would not worry about it local travel, but if I was hauling my tractor very far at highway/freeway speeds with minimal stops, I would just cover it and not worry. Even easier for me since mine does not have a turbo.

If I needed to cover it, I would simply use a empty tin can the right size, drill a hole for bungee cord hook to grab it and hook somewhere so it does not fall off. Doesn't matter if exhaust is hot or not.

I see loads like this every day that I spend on or near Interstate Hiway 35. :)

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