3/4 ton vs. 1 ton

[Complete Turf Care]

I have been considering going from a 3/4 ton truck to a 1 ton truck.

My current daily driver/work truck is a 2012 Dodge 2500 4 door 4x4 with the 6.7L with 71,000 miles.

I found a 2012 Dodge 3500 4 door 4x4 with the 6.7L with 37,000 miles with a flatbed. The dealer has offered me the truck for a difference of $9000 including taxes.

Both are basically the same truck, with the same trim level, except for the mileage, and the flatbed, and the 3/4 ton vs. 1 ton. And the 1 ton needs the urea, the 3/4 ton does not.

Sometimes I feel that I would prefer a 1 ton flatbed for more towing stability, and a little more space on the bed. My current trailer hooked to the 1 ton would still be below CDL requirement, which I prefer.

What are issues I should be consider before making this move? Will I be happy with the performance, ride, economy of the bigger truck? Is the 1 ton worth that much more than my 3/4 ton now? Or in the future? What else?

 

[rustyshakelford]

Is the dually a 13? 12s don't need urea. I think the 9k is kinda steep to be getting into that truck but after my last batch of dodges I'm soured on them. When it comes to towing though, the dually does offer a lot of benefits. The flatbed is a blessing and a curse. You'll need to strap most things down, they are in plain sight and more often borrowed without the intention to return, but it makes hooking up to a gn easier and you don't worry about fenders or scratched up bed sides. L-shaped slip tanks fit better also.

Brett

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Is the dually a 13? 12s don't need urea. I think the 9k is kinda steep to be getting into that truck but after my last batch of dodges I'm soured on them. When it comes to towing though, the dually does offer a lot of benefits. The flatbed is a blessing and a curse. You'll need to strap most things down, they are in plain sight and more often borrowed without the intention to return, but it makes hooking up to a gn easier and you don't worry about fenders or scratched up bed sides. L-shaped slip tanks fit better also.

Brett

It is a '12. I remember when I bought my '12 2500 the 3500's needed the urea but the 2500's didn't. I would put some removable sides on the bed. Maybe 12" high or so to help keep things from sliding off. Not sure what I would do for a tool box, but I will need something. It has 1 'underbody' box on it now, but that's not enough for all my junk.

 

[rustyshakelford]

It is a '12. I remember when I bought my '12 2500 the 3500's needed the urea but the 2500's didn't. I would put some removable sides on the bed. Maybe 12" high or so to help keep things from sliding off. Not sure what I would do for a tool box, but I will need something. It has 1 'underbody' box on it now, but that's not enough for all my junk.

I had a 11 3500 and 12 3500. Neither used the urea. What they have is a C&C 3500. could have the aisin transmissions and different gearing. C&Cs had the urea it'll also have those huge tow hooks off the front.

Brett

 

[rustyshakelford]

They were also detuned. Check what the hp/trq is. I'd bet it's considerably less than what you have now

Brett

 

[Complete Turf Care]

What is C&C?

 

[rustyshakelford]

Cab and chassis. The work trucks that get flatbeds, utility body's, crane or bucket trucks.

Brett

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Okay. How do I find the specs on this truck? I have the VIN. I'll look for a web site to decode the VIN

 

[Complete Turf Care]

This is what I found. Anything here jump out at you that I should be concerned about?

VIN 3C7WDTCL4CG249958
Vehicle Description 2012 DODGE RAM 4X4 3500 CREW CAB CHASSIS
Monotone Paint
730 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
Front Height Adjust Shoulder Belts
Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags
Black Vinyl Floor Covering
Driver/Passenger Assist Handles
No Underseat Storage
5,500# Front Axle w/Hub Ext
Man Shift-On-The-Fly Transfer Case
4.10 Rear Axle Ratio
11.50, Dual Wheels Rear Axle
Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
Conventional Differential Frt Axle
Tinted Glass Windows
Rear Fixed Window
Rear View Day/Night Mirror
Passenger Side Sun Visor w/Mirror
Power Black Trailer Tow Mirrors
Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
Dash Liner Insulation
Floor Tunnel Insulation
Instrument Panel Black Bezel
120 MPH Primary Speedometer
STANDARD EQUIPMENT
1 06/13/15
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Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
Dual Note Electric Horns
12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
Power Accessory Delay
Power Locks
Pwr Front Windows, 1-Touch,Up & Down
Rear Dome Lamp
Halogen Quad Headlamps
Automatic Headlamps
Clearance Lamps
Delete Cargo Lamp
Black Front Bumper
Body Color Headlamp Filler Panel
Front License Plate Bracket
Black Grille
Black Door Handles
Ram 3500 Badge
Front Air Dam
52 Gallon Rear Fuel Tank
Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
Bright White Clear Coat
2 Speakers
Uconnect 130 AM/FM/CD/MP3
Power Steering
4-Spoke Steering Wheel
Front Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
Rear Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
Front Stabilizer Bar
Rear Heavy Duty Stabilizer Bar
2 06/13/15
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*
Tilt Steering Column
Delete Spare Tire
LT235/80R17E BSW All Season Tires
17X6.0 Steel Argent Wheels
Dual Rear Wheels
Non Adjustable Pedals
Delete Pickup Box
7 Pin Wiring Harness
English/USA Language
Job Rated
Seat Parts Module
Instrument Panel Parts Module
Door Parts Module
Front End Parts Module
Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
Incomplete Vehicle
U.S. Fleet Purchase
Zone 63-Dallas
Crew Cab
172.4" Wheelbase
DD/6340 Vehicle Family
Four Wheel Drive (4WD)/(4X4)
Price Class L
2012 Vehicle Specifications
3500 Series
Vehicle Order Tracking
U.S. Specifications Label
Texas Ship to State Code
Texas Sold to State Code
3 06/13/15
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HD Vinyl 40/20/40 Split Bench Seat
Dark Slate/Medium Graystone
180 Amp Alternator
40/20/40 Split Bench Seat
Rear Folding Seat
Base Door Trim Panel
Mini Floor Console
All Automatic Transmissions
6-Spd Auto AISIN AS68RC Transmission
6.7L I6 Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine
All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
Remote Keyless Entry
Air Conditioning
Instrument Cluster w/Display
102 MPH Maximum Speed
Manual Adjust Seats
Vehicle Information Center
Ext. Mirrors w/Supplemental Signals
Exterior Mirrors Courtesy Lamps
Black Exterior Mirrors
Auxiliary Switches - I/P Mounted
Front Wheel Spats
Cummins Turbo Diesel Badge
50 State Emissions
Diesel Exhaust Brake
Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler
Exterior Mirrors w/Heating Element
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
4 06/13/15
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Speed Control
Electronically Controlled Throttle
Current Generation Eng Controller
Bright White Clear Coat
All Radio Equipped Vehicles
Fixed Long Mast Antenna
General Brand Tires
All Steel Wheels
Center Hub
Selective Catalytic Reduction (UREA)
Tip Start
Tow Hooks
Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
Trailer Brake Control
6 Additional Gallons of Diesel Fuel
Spring - Left Front
Spring - Left Rear
Spring - Right Front
Spring - Right Rear
GVW Rating - 13000#
FAM: DD TRACKING: 10720T20 MY:2012
FAM: DD TRACKING: 20118T18 MY:2012
FAM: DD TRACKING: 10720T16 MY:2012
Customer Preferred Package 2GA
Customer Preferred Package 2TA
Price Protection - Code H
Fleet Incentive Waiver
Delete Group Funds-Fleet
Sold Vehicle
5 06/13/15
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Fleet Option Editor
Fleet Sales Order
Special Scheduling Condition VI
4X4 Tracking
Misc Commercial Account
Saltillo Truck Assembly Plant
Waterbase Paint
All Inclusive VIP Program
Off Invoice Tracking
Fleet Matching System

 

[rustyshakelford]

Ok. From what I see...

Aisin transmission 3yr/180,000 mile warranty. Might still have some left
13k gvw. That's not bad. My 3500s were 12,200 I think
52 gallon fuel tank would be nice.
4.10 gears would help with towing but not kill mileage to bad

If I remeber right the numbers are 305/610 hp/trq. Or something around that. It's been to long since I studied up on them. When ram bought my lemon back in 2012 I considered a C&C but decided against it when I saw the power ratings and the fact I coukdnt get a longhorn Laramie. Instead got a regular dually with alcoas. This truck will probably ride more like a truck and feel gutless to you considering what your used to. I'd go drive it and see what you think. Still think paying 9k is a little high for some reason.

Brett

 

[Diamondpilot]

9K seems like a high jump.

For me I detest Dually a Trucks. Had one and it was just horrible in snow and mud.

I now only buy 1 ton SRW trucks. They have about 1500# more capacity than a 3/4 ton but no dual rear wheels.

Chris

 

[rustyshakelford]

9K seems like a high jump.

For me I detest Dually a Trucks. Had one and it was just horrible in snow and mud.

I now only buy 1 ton SRW trucks. They have about 1500# more capacity than a 3/4 ton but no dual rear wheels.

Chris

When you pull heavy or something that catches a bunch of wind you can't beat a dually. Sometimes you just have to accept the trade off. I've honestly been stuck more in my current srw than I was in my duallys and they went worst places. I'd pull with the dually a few times a week. Help up fine, I wouldn't want to do that with my srw

Brett

I'll move this around a few times a week if needed when the grass is growing but you can hardly tell it's there. Besr weight I can figure is 15-16k. Need to run across the scales

This is my current truck. Pulls fine but don't do this very often. Trailer is about 22k

This is my old truck. Trailer was around 25-26k

 

[JJZ 109]

I'm thinking $9k to trade same year diesel to same year diesel to basically lose a pickup bed and gain a dually rear axle is pretty steep.

 

[woodchipper]

I do not understand here the real necessity for the dually upgrade. But at 9K extra for the second pair of wheels, I would go to a GM dealer and bargain on a new one ton C&C. Gas engines are just fine to me if you are not driving a zillion miles a year... I would sell the 3/4Ton private to put up as cash down, and finance the balance.
As said by previous poster, true to me as well, that with dually traction in mud and snow is totaly crap. Need good mudders... When talking stability, what a difference you'll get with that added rear set of wheels. The drive is soo better when compared with a 3/4Ton. I have owned a 97 Chevy 3/4T HD, reg. cab, long box, and currently have a 97 Chevy 1Ton dually,long box with standard cab,3.73 gear ratio. Get real good mileage, but towing is limited to 8K, due to the 5.7L Vortek engine. Would be happier with a 14K towing capacity, so I could pull my bigger tractor if needed.

 

[brown40]

It does sound like a lateral move--dual wheels are great for towing, but for well under 9k you could get a nice weight distribution set-up to improve stability and safety. Plus you know what you've got right now--regen systems seem to be less than trouble-free as well--another thing that can go wrong. If you are currently underpowered, the move won't be an upgrade, except for in the fuel bill and ability to get rolling. At 60-65 mph the 4.10 rear is less than ideal, but for country roads its okay. It adds a bunch of weight, its more laterally stable, but your psi applied to the road beneath the rear axle will drop when you double your surface area (unloaded). For wet, snowy or icy roads a narrower footprint is advantageous.
If you've had some pucker events in the SRW that you foresee reoccurring, and a dually would prevent it--safety alone is good enough reason to make a change. Regular high speed towing with heavy loads--a dually is the better tool for the job.

 

[square1]

This is what I found. Anything here jump out at you that I should be concerned about?

Speedo only goes to 120

 

[scaredychicken]

not sure why this thread caught my attention, as this equipment and your needs are way beyond what my experience is (we have a 1/2T, I always wanted a 3/4T truck), that said ... a few thoughts (I glanced at it but did not read all of the specs that were presented in the earlier post - so I've probably missed some detail)

- don't think I would be that eager to switch - what was your reason for buying the 3/4T originally ? has that changed ?
- I never read in the original post that the 1T was a dually (perhaps that is just a given, but I don't know enough about Dodge trucks) - I understand that it is a dually, that may or may not be an advantage for you
- if you want a flat deck / dually (rather than a box), do you also need or want the CrewCab (as offered)? perhaps a 4 dr cab (slightly smaller than Crew) may serve your purposes and possibly give you a longer flatbed ? I also imagine that Lawn Care businesses have many smaller mowers, rakes, shovels, wheelbarrows etc that are needing to be secured on the back of a truck... just an observation... hauling sand, dirt, bricks ???
- will you be wanting to tie everything down / lock up everything daily, with a flatdeck - perhaps insurance rates change (increase) when you go to a flatdeck ???
- out here in BC Canada, the truck boxes are cheaper, than a professionally fabricated flatdeck - so the $ difference may not be that bad actually
- is the flatdeck aluminum or heavy duty steel ? - that weight difference would influence the fuel economy
- is the deck surface wood ? or other (checkerplate ?)
- the difference of $9000 including taxes (with most saying that this is steep), is actually a difference of $8100 - $8650 before taxes, depending on the 4-11% tax rates that I looked up for Louisiana. if that is your starting point, and you are not yet sold on the switch - then my approach would be to lowball with $6 (before tax) - 7K (including tax) difference and see what they say. you can always walk away right ?
- if you are being reasonable and giving them your final offer (it's amazing how often the dealership will suddenly give more incentive (phone calls even days later) after you walk away
- how LONG has the 2012 1T been at the dealership ? if it is a recent inventory item, they may not negotiate as easily as if it was a lot ornament for the past few months
- don't forget that the 2016s will be out in the next few months, that is when they will want to deal (new and used)
- even if you decide that the $9K value (or ???) is worth it for the other truck, is that enough of a value shift to switch vehicles? you have a very nice truck now, will a switch make enough of a difference for that value ?

BOTTOM LINE - if this is the truck you need or want, make the best deal that you can, or walk and wait. Tough call. you need to determine the magic financial line of a deal / no deal. Keep emotions out of it... money on the table talks or walks (we are currently negotiating for a new car), but it's your hard earned money.

All the best as you consider options.

 

[JimRB]

The hay farmer down the road got a new Dodge C&C diesel dual rear wheels and I think 4wd for under $50k. I was thinking closer to $40k but I cannot remember. After seeing all the rediculous $50-60k price tags on 2500 series I was amazed a work truck was so much less than the luxury 2500. Have you priced out commercial trucks at a dealer that has 50-100 commercial trucks? If they do not have a big inventory of commerical trucks then they probably do not have the good pricing to go with a commercial vehicle.

 

[dodge man]

I personally think it would be a step up for you. The big difference being the Asisn transmission and the dally. Don't worry about the power difference. It's less but still more than enough. They detune them for long term durability. The urea is generally not considered a draw back since you get less regens and less fuel wasted so that offsets the Urea cost.

As others have pointed out, do the dollars work out for you? Is the dealer trying to sell a chassis cab that's harder to sell to get your truck? I can't answer those questions.

 

[Mikejeakins]

You have a really nice setup. Rusty