Well problems

[crackerjack222]

Paul, I am coming in late to this discussion but will offer these thoughts:
I have not used the "waterproof" connectors. The pros I had work on my wells just staggered the connections a few inches and connected the wires with butt crimp splices then taped them individually with about 8 layers of Scotch 33 electrical tape. No problems with that in 20 years and I have done the same in the shallow (110') well I maintain. The shallow well has the 3/4 hp pump on 3/4" black plastic and I have pulled it several times by hand. I made a clamp for the pipe using two 16" pieces of 2x4 and some all-thread rod. the clamp just rests on the top of the casing.
The bottom of the casing is likely perforated with holes or slits. One pro installation used 4" pvc that they cut slits in with a circle saw. If you have had sand problems in the past and if indeed the pump is resting on sand, you will likely continue to have sand problems. Knowing this, I would first determine the static water level then pull the pump up as high as I felt I could while still maintaining it well below static level. You will then need to closely monitor the well to ensure it does not over-pump the well.
I have another well, 700' deep with a 5 hp pump set at about 300' on 1.5" steel pipe. This well has always made a lot of very fine sand after about 1 minute of running and until it has run for about 2 hours. The pump has been in about 20 years and is beginning to trip the breaker if it runs for more than about 5 minutes. When it finally gives up, I plan to replace the pump with a 3/4 horse pump in the hope it will not pull sand up from the bottom of the well. I dont need the flow of the 5 hp pump any more.
Also, if you notice the water becoming smelly or bad tasting over the next few days, pour a gallon of bleach in the well and let it sit overnite to kill the bacteria. It is not uncommon to have a bacteria problem after working on a well.
HTH

 

[greenmojo]

While were on the subject of pumps, wondering if anyone else has their pump electrical feed from an outlet? I did this back when I put the pump in as a means to totally disconnect/isolate the control box and pump from the the rest of the house wiring when I know a thunderstorm is coming. Figured if it's not connected it's less likely to get taken out if a lightening hit causes a surge in the house wiring. The outlet is keyed to only take a special type of plug.

View attachment 429690

I discovered these little guys while building my off-grid system. They are surge suppressors / clamps -- they essentially give a quicker path to ground when it exceeds a specific voltage, clamping the lighting strike. Very cool! I've installed several of them as required by code, and a few extras on spendy equipment. Installs right into the knockouts on any panel and wiring takes 5 minutes.

This particular one is made for 120/240v applications and will stop a direct lightning strike. Made by Midnite Solar.



~Moses

 

[paulharvey]

So, now I have the old pump ... can and or should I rebuild (if Cheap with a capital C) it, get rid of it, throw in the woods for future generations to hit with bush hog? When I asked the pump guys about rebuilding, they said the manufacturers make them basically in repairable now. Of coarse he also has a reason to try to sell me a New pump (or sell a rebuilt as a New)

 

[paulharvey]

Double post

 

[TheGoose]

That big box store is nowhere near the quality that a professional well man would use. The motors are cheaper made and the pumps are cheaper made, just like everything else you would buy in a big box store. You'll be lucky to get 3-5 years out of it. Also, I'm not sold on the butt connectors. I've always used tape and butt splices and never had one fail. Good job getting the pump in/out of the well and getting your water going.

 

[paulharvey]

That big box store is nowhere near the quality that a professional well man would use. The motors are cheaper made and the pumps are cheaper made, just like everything else you would buy in a big box store. You'll be lucky to get 3-5 years out of it. Also, I'm not sold on the butt connectors. I've always used tape and butt splices and never had one fail. Good job getting the pump in/out of the well and getting your water going.

On the button splices; I actually gooped with red RTV and wrapped with tape too. On quality, I can't say; I Do know the new one was significantly heavier, but that's cause the body was cast iron, old one was stainless. Impellers look to be plastic in both... neither where exactly Flypht or Myers

 

[TheGoose]

The motors themselves are made cheaper and I've confirmed this with Franklin. It will last you about 3-5 years so you're good, just be aware that the quality is nowhere near the same as a professional grade, just like almost everything else in the box store. The pumps themselves almost never fail, it's usually the motors that give out first.

On the button splices; I actually gooped with red RTV and wrapped with tape too. On quality, I can't say; I Do know the new one was significantly heavier, but that's cause the body was cast iron, old one was stainless. Impellers look to be plastic in both... neither where exactly Flypht or Myers

 

[paulharvey]

Ok, so everything is still working but I have another related question. How long should the pump run when it kicks on: I have a 26 gallon bladder tank. Should it run for a minute or two; or for 10-15 seconds?

 

[Carl_NH]

Ok, so everything is still working but I have another related question. How long should the pump run when it kicks on: I have a 26 gallon bladder tank. Should it run for a minute or two; or for 10-15 seconds?

26 gal tank should be about 10-12 gallon drawdown so about 70 seconds run time with no other draw on the water

 

[paulharvey]

26 gal tank should be about 10-12 gallon drawdown so about 70 seconds run time with no other draw on the water

Thank you. I might just replace the switch too; because it don't know what it's set at. I do know if running about 20 seconds per cycle; which I didn't think was right. I've got the air right at 28 psi (which should be right for 30/50 switch) but #1: I'm not sure if it's 20-40; 30-50; or 40-60; and I've played with the adjusting nut, so no idea what it is at now.

Do you guys put a pressure gauge in, or is there any benifit? Switch is probably $15; and not a bad job to redo, but I'm wondering if there's any reason to put a pressure gauge inline, and adjust my pressure switch to a good factory setting?