Turbocharging a Jinma 254 Build (Y385)

ElectroTechnics · Jul 13, 2015

Update:
Here is a pic of the parts pile, that does not include other new parts such as oil, filters, tools, etc.

So far we have done:

Added fittings for water feed and drain.
Cut out a flange for the turbo, and welded up a adapter for the turbo inlet. No picts

Resurfaced all the gasket surfaces with any corrosion or scratches.
Cut out new gaskets for exhaust, push rod covers and the thermostat housing (the latter not pictured)
Added fittings for oil drain.
Modified and mounted the *new* (old) 80 Amp alternator.

Painted the engine.
New fuel lines have been plumbed in.

Flipped the exhaust manifold around to provide clearance

Cleaned and painted the fuel tank (soon to be coated on the inside)
cleaned radiator and straightened fins.
And lots of other little things not worth mentioning

Work on it will commence Wednesday evening and the goal is for a turbo'ed test run on Thursday
I will post updates as it moved along and a video of the test run.

I usually think porting is pointless (compared to other mods) but on this VERY unevenly cast exhaust header it is really needed. So I will port it, I'll also port sides of the square turbo housing inlet since the pipe feeding it is round. That way the shapes will match up and the air will flow freely.
No polishing IMO that is pointless.

We ordered some more waste gate springs now we have a 4.4, 7.3, and 12 psi springs. I heard from someone who has turbo'ed a Y385 that they can run 1 bar of boost fully stock with no cooling problems and only at 1.5 bar of boost the cooling cant hold up.

sd455dan · Jul 13, 2015

subscribed- looks like fun:thumbsup:

D0TC0M · Jul 13, 2015

@op I've got a KM385 EPA engine. It looks a little different from yours.

doxford jim · Jul 14, 2015

Bob Rooks said:
Were you monitoring EGT's? Just curious if there was much of an increase.

Hi Bob,

Yes, I did monitor the EGT's. There is a thermometer (thermocouple) mounted at the inlet to the turbocharger. I kept the max temp to less than 1200F. This ensured no problems with overheating. Normal running on level highway would give around 500F. The turbo has been on the truck since 1993 and there have been no problems to date - and it still runs well. Had the head gaskets replaced (2002) and the engine was like new inside with good looking cross hatching on the cylinder walls. For me it was a much needed upgrade.

Bob Rooks · Jul 14, 2015

doxford jim said:
Hi Bob,

Yes, I did monitor the EGT's. There is a thermometer (thermocouple) mounted at the inlet to the turbocharger. I kept the max temp to less than 1200F. This ensured no problems with overheating. Normal running on level highway would give around 500F. The turbo has been on the truck since 1993 and there have been no problems to date - and it still runs well. Had the head gaskets replaced (2002) and the engine was like new inside with good looking cross hatching on the cylinder walls. For me it was a much needed upgrade.

Excellent. You won't melt any valves. Good job.

ElectroTechnics · Jul 17, 2015

Update:
A fair bit has been accomplished on the turbo build.

I "ported" out the header, mainly it was just smoothing out the big uneven chunks in the header.

Then I ported out the turbo housing just around the turbine inlet so the round pipe will fit up with the square inlet
Before:

After:

Then I welded up the turbo adapter. Those are not the prettiest welds, but it holds and seals and that's what matters.

Finally tonight we mounted the turbo up (for testing) and fired up the engine. There were many exhaust leaks since it was a mock up and no gaskets were in place. Tomorrow we will plumb the intake and seal the exhaust.

Once we get some sensors and gauges in, fix the current redneck fuel rig, and have the intake and exhaust all finished, I will post up a video here of a test run. Then it will be time for putting the cowling on and wiring it up.

I know in the y385 Mazda pickup thread by danthefamilyman there was talk about turbocharging one of these engines but this should be the first writeup on actually doing it. Hopefully this will be of help to others who want to turbo their tractor!

ElectroTechnics · Jul 17, 2015

Here is a picture of the back of the injection pump. I have marked out on the picture the high and low speed adjustment for RPM and the third adjustment is on the back of the pump is fuel? The manual said there are three adjustments that are wired together so deductive reasoning would suggest that it is the max fuel screw on the back (it should increase the max travel of the rack).

That matches up with the info I have read on a few other threads; that it is the fuel screw.

jacques54 · Jul 17, 2015

I have a 2009 FOTON 254 with a Laidong KM385 engine.
When I bought my tractor I talk to a mechanic who repairs farm equipment at the farm. He said that there are simple machine but some had their fuel pump not set to achieve the engine the horse-power it should. He told me that it is mostly true for the FT404 ( tractor won't hold speed in 8th gear ) and the dealer near by (close now ) ask him to put the tractor they sell on his dynamometer.

So, one morning I go to his home and he put my tractor on his dynamometer. At that time the engine show around 22HP at the PTO that is not too bad for a 25HP tractor. He said that he could adjust it a little bit more but not to a point there is black smoke. Now the engine have around 32HP with the exhaust nearly clear.

The adjustment are the one you point in the pic. As I remember the max fuel have two screws. One outer bigger for the rack travel ( HP ) and middle one for fine tuning or a buffer screw ( not sure ) that he just slightly adjust.

The maximum RPM should not be over 2500.

I like this thread very informative and I hope you can take a video of the tractor running, earing that turbo whistling . :thumbsup:

Jacques

buickanddeere · Jul 17, 2015

ElectroTechnics said:
I'm not certain that a calibration is required. We are not planning on getting anything calibrated. I have read that there should be a smoke (fuel) screw on the back of the pump that can be adjusted.
I think it restricts the fuel return line directing more to the injectors.

That is not how a diesel injection pump works.