New Guy with a Ford 1700

[msg1956]

Thanks guys for the information! The only seals involved are the rear main off of the crank, and whatever is under the throw-out bearing sleeve on the front of the transmission. I have the rear main on order, but have to figure out the tranny. Unfortunately, the rear freeze out plug will require removing the head to replace, so I will just leave that alone.

JEB Davis: I looked on the Tractor Supply website, and didn't find any pins that would appear to work. Do you remember which ones you used? It appears that the only pins New Holland can supply are the ones for the newer 770, that has the QD mounts. It takes the pins with the teardrop shaped retaining plates that you bolt through to the frame. The top, rear loader arm pins are that design, but the rest are not, and there is no place to use the bolt on retainer (the pins are just a simple welded washer on one side, and a hole for a cotter pin on the other).

Re-lining the brakes is a great idea! The price of brakes from the dealer is just usurious!

I went through a lot of hemming and hawing about which clutch kit to buy. The OEM New Holland parts are pushing $500, while the aftermarket stuff is around $200. Since I don't plan on having this tractor for another 25 years, and don't use it every day, my wallet went for the aftermarket stuff (hope I will not regret it). If I used the Ford to make money, I would of course use the OEM parts. But since I am doing this on a shoe string, and I have a Case 1988 580K that needs work too (which makes no money for me either), I went cheap!

Speaking of cheap; The sun has done a great job of destroying all 8 tires on these two tractors. Does anyone have a good source for new ones?

Thanks again!

 

[Creamer]

I found 1" pins at Tractor Supply Co for my 770 loader.
Best of luck with your clutch job.

I'll just pass on my experience with the brakes... several years ago I bought a used (1980, I think) 1700 and it's brakes were toast. I took off the covers and just a pile of powder fell out, lol. Pricing a new set of brake shoes just left me angry, so I decided to re-shoe them myself. Bought a few feet of 1/4" or 3/16" thick (can't exactly remember which) "brake/clutch lining" and some flat-head brass rivets from McMaster-Carr. The lining was the perfect width and thickness, so I just had to drill & countersink for the rivets, and rasped down the leading & trailing edges of the lining. They have worked great and saved a ton of money!

Thanks! I am going to need a brake job on mine fairly soon.

 

[ovrszd]

I found 1" pins at Tractor Supply Co for my 770 loader.
Best of luck with your clutch job.

I'll just pass on my experience with the brakes... several years ago I bought a used (1980, I think) 1700 and it's brakes were toast. I took off the covers and just a pile of powder fell out, lol. Pricing a new set of brake shoes just left me angry, so I decided to re-shoe them myself. Bought a few feet of 1/4" or 3/16" thick (can't exactly remember which) "brake/clutch lining" and some flat-head brass rivets from McMaster-Carr. The lining was the perfect width and thickness, so I just had to drill & countersink for the rivets, and rasped down the leading & trailing edges of the lining. They have worked great and saved a ton of money!

Back in the day, it was normal procedure to reshoe cars/trucks that way. I didn't know you could still purchase the products to do it that way now!!! I'll remember that.

 

[msg1956]

So where would one pic up the lining material? On-line searches aren't turning up much. Is it something the local auto parts store word carry?

 

[ovrszd]

So where would one pic up the lining material? On-line searches aren't turning up much. Is it something the local auto parts store word carry?

Took me about 30 seconds on Google, following his lead, McMaster-Carr to find this.

McMaster-Carr

 

[msg1956]

Took me about 30 seconds on Google, following his lead, McMaster-Carr to find this.

McMaster-Carr

Never thought to check McMaster-Carr for the lining (thought he was just talking about the rivets). Just wasn't getting any good hits, no matter what my search terms. I wont be working on the brakes until all the other work is addressed (since they do still work). Once I get the shoes in my hands, I can see what size/type of lining I need. No doubt it is asbestos!

 

[msg1956]

Well, got my E-bay clutch kit in, and am wondering about if I made the right choice. Although the pressure plate looks fine, the clutch disk itself is not what I expected. First off, I am totally amazed at how little the original clutch disk is worn (considering I burned the fingers off the pressure plate). However the face of the clutch material on the new clutch is a lot more narrow than my original clutch plate. Measuring from the OD of the old disk, to the ID of the face of the clutch material, it is about 1 5/8". On the after market clutch, that same measurement is about 1 1/4". The new pressure plate is identical in OD and ID to the old one. It just seems to me that a 1/3 or so reduction of clutch face may be an issue.

Next, I am not all that impressed with the pilot bearing. It screams cheap Chinese! The TO bearing seems OK, but it is hard to tell! That was not unexpected, and I am thinking of just buying the OEM bearings anyway.

On the TO bearing, the stepped side does go towards the clutch, correct? That is the way the old one was set up, but I knew someone put a clutch in before I bought the machine, and was just wondering if he oriented the bearing the correct way when he did it.

Speaking of pressure plates, does anyone have a good method to adjust the fingers? Although I have worked on a lot of equipment, I have never messed with a manual clutch before. I have the factory repair manual, and it just references using a special OEM gauge (which I don't have), to set the fingers!

Thanks!

 

[JEB Davis]

JEB Davis: I looked on the Tractor Supply website, and didn't find any pins that would appear to work. Do you remember which ones you used? It appears that the only pins New Holland can supply are the ones for the newer 770, that has the QD mounts. It takes the pins with the teardrop shaped retaining plates that you bolt through to the frame. The top, rear loader arm pins are that design, but the rest are not, and there is no place to use the bolt on retainer (the pins are just a simple welded washer on one side, and a hole for a cotter pin on the other).

Re-lining the brakes is a great idea! The price of brakes from the dealer is just usurious!

I used TSC's 1" pin with a head on one end and hole on the other, making sure each was long enough to put 1" machine bushings (washers) on each end since my loader's holes are pretty well worn to ovals. IIRC there were about 3 different pin lengths for different loader locations. For the teardrop headed pins, I just didn't replace them.

I searched my records and can't find the exact McMaster-Carr part number that I chose, but it was the "strip" variety "Metal-free" type at the link posted by member ovrszd. Once you get the brakes apart it's easy enough to measure for the right width & thickness. If the thickness isn't so easy to determine the strips are so cheap you can get a couple different ones and experiment.

Remembering back, my finished shoes were a pretty tight fit going back into the drums, and I had to rasp off a small amount of lining to get them in. This worried me a little, but after adjusting the brake rods & test-driving I was glad that I didn't go with thinner strips because they ended up working perfectly.

 

[msg1956]

I used TSC's 1" pin with a head on one end and hole on the other, making sure each was long enough to put 1" machine bushings (washers) on each end since my loader's holes are pretty well worn to ovals. IIRC there were about 3 different pin lengths for different loader locations. For the teardrop headed pins, I just didn't replace them.

I searched my records and can't find the exact McMaster-Carr part number that I chose, but it was the "strip" variety "Metal-free" type at the link posted by member ovrszd. Once you get the brakes apart it's easy enough to measure for the right width & thickness. If the thickness isn't so easy to determine the strips are so cheap you can get a couple different ones and experiment.

Remembering back, my finished shoes were a pretty tight fit going back into the drums, and I had to rasp off a small amount of lining to get them in. This worried me a little, but after adjusting the brake rods & test-driving I was glad that I didn't go with thinner strips because they ended up working perfectly.

Thanks for the reply. The reason I couldn't find the pins at Tractor supply is because, I was looking for an actual loader pin. I believe you are using the top link pins that they sell for attaching 3-point hitch implements. Not a bad choice, since they are hard, just a little long.

If you are handy with a welder, you can find some 1" hardened washers, and weld them to the frame to take care of the worn holes. I had that done years ago, and they held up well. I need to do this to the top holes on my loader frame now. The original washers are something that my Dad came up with. He is gone now, so I need to do a little detective work to figure out where they came from. New Holland sells the pins with the tear drop shaped plates for the retaining bolt, but I just don't know if they will fit my old loader. For $6 vs $25 each, I may just use the longer pins throughout.

This tractor has been apart for quite a while now. As soon as the weather broke, I got involved in a massive number of outdoor projects. I had some issue getting any of the 3 New Holland dealers in my general area to order the parts. Luckily, the 4th Dealer I contacted had the parts at my door in 3 days! Of course, now one of the other dealers, who never got back to me, has ordered the parts, and charged my CC!

I am having someone re-build the loader mounts. I use the tractor to plow my long gravel driveway, and the shocks that go through it when it hits frozen ground have pretty much destroyed the front mounts.

Brakes will probably have to wait until fall.

The saga continues!

 

[msg1956]

Greetings all!

Believe it or not, I finally got this tractor back together again three weeks ago! I can honestly say that the most difficult parts of the job were:

1) EVERY possible nook and cranny had a build up of dirt, oil, and grease. I don't own a pressure washer, so I had to make do with scrubbing everything with a brush and hose.

2) Not having a level piece of ground to work on proved to be a major issue when trying to roll it back together. When I separated the two halves, the front canted slightly clockwise, and I had a difficult time getting everything to line up again.

3) For the life of me, I could not get the front drive shaft to line up while trying to align the transmission shaft and clutch. I did the job alone, and that tubular guard that was over the drive shaft just keep me from getting it lined up. So, I left the shaft off, put the tractor together, then un-bolted the front axle and lined it up that way. It was actually quite easy, once I got all the grease off of the front axle mount!

The loader is still waiting a friend to rebuild it, but I have been using the PTO and three point hitch to dig fence posts, and groom the wife's riding ring.

The battery box was totally rotted out, so I had to rebuild that. The front, bottom edge of the hood was also badly rotted, and must be repaired. The steel mesh in the grill was pretty rusty, so I decided to take the grill apart to clean it up. Unfortunately, the headlights are also all rotted out, and I broke three of the six mounting studs for the headlight bodies. There just is not too much left to try to patch together. New headlights are still available, but are $126 each! Does anyone know of a suitable replacement light?