New Guy with a Ford 1700

[msg1956]

Well, the weather finally got good enough to crawl around on the ground (I am not as young as I used to be). So, it begins!

I used my backhoe to hold the loader arms up while I backed out of them, then shifted them out of the way.



I spent the rest of the afternoon taking off the loader mount. There are a LOT of cracks that need repair. I knew there would be. Although I operate this little tractor as carefully as I can, I do a lot of work with it (much more then this motorized wheelbarrow was designed to do). I have a 580K Case, but my yard is very sloped, which makes it very hard use the wider bucket (and almost impossible to snow plow).

Today I will remove all the steering, fuel, and electrical connections (along with the 4WD driveshaft). I have a small skid I will build a platform on to support the front end, and use a pallet jack to separate the two halves. Luckily, I found a spot that is relatively level, so I don't have to do the work in front of my house!

The pins in the 770 loader are badly worn. Does anyone have a source for replacement loader pins? They are all 1" OD. Thanks!

 

[msg1956]

Got it apart!



Not really that hard to do, just a LOT of things to disconnect! The real trick is going to be to line everything up when it goes back together. I took it apart by myself, but I may need a hand getting everything to line up when I slide back together.

Gee, I wonder why the clutch stopped working?

 

[Creamer]

I think you may have found the problem.

 

[msg1956]

Well, the good news is, the pressure plate going left fabric on the clutch. So, my flywheel is not really worn badly. The clutch didn't chatter at all, so I am thinking I am just going to leave the flywheel alone. However, does anyone have a good method for removing the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft?

 

[ovrszd]

They make a tool to do that. But who owns one of those right??

I used a foot long piece of rod, welded a washer on one end that was small enough to go inside the hole. Clamped a pair of vise grips on the other end. Slipped the washer in behind the bearing, then tapped on the vise grips with a small hammer and pulled mine out.

 

[msg1956]

They make a tool to do that. But who owns one of those right??

I used a foot long piece of rod, welded a washer on one end that was small enough to go inside the hole. Clamped a pair of vise grips on the other end. Slipped the washer in behind the bearing, then tapped on the vise grips with a small hammer and pulled mine out.

Sounds like a plan, thanks! I also discovered the trick of packing the blind hole thru the bearing with grease, bread, or wet paper, then driving in a rod that provides a tight fit to the ID of the bearing. The resulting pressure pushes the bearing out (thanks YouTube). I will try this first.

 

[ovrszd]

Mine came out very easily. I was lucky.

Anxious to see results of your reassembly. Hope it all goes well. As my Dad would say, "What this calls for is a high level of maturity". In other words, "Patience is a virtue".

 

[msg1956]

Mine came out very easily. I was lucky.

Anxious to see results of your reassembly. Hope it all goes well. As my Dad would say, "What this calls for is a high level of maturity". In other words, "Patience is a virtue".

Thanks for your good wishes! Having a background in repairing construction equipment, and making my living as an industrial mechanic, has given me a lot of experience (if not wisdom). Slow and steady always pays off!

I would love to pull the flywheel, and replace the rear main seal (as soon as I score a 2 1/2" socket to get the nut off). Are there any issues with prying out the seal around the end of the camshaft I should know about? I plan on prying it out with a screwdriver (haven't removed the flywheel, so I am guessing what it looks like in there), and then turning a piece of pvc pipe to act as a tool to drive the new seal on.

Thanks!

 

[ovrszd]

The main seal was very easy to remove and install for me. Shouldn't be a big deal. And I'd certainly want to replace it while there. As I mentioned in my thread, replace every seal in there while you are there.

 

[JEB Davis]

I found 1" pins at Tractor Supply Co for my 770 loader.
Best of luck with your clutch job.

I'll just pass on my experience with the brakes... several years ago I bought a used (1980, I think) 1700 and it's brakes were toast. I took off the covers and just a pile of powder fell out, lol. Pricing a new set of brake shoes just left me angry, so I decided to re-shoe them myself. Bought a few feet of 1/4" or 3/16" thick (can't exactly remember which) "brake/clutch lining" and some flat-head brass rivets from McMaster-Carr. The lining was the perfect width and thickness, so I just had to drill & countersink for the rivets, and rasped down the leading & trailing edges of the lining. They have worked great and saved a ton of money!