Consider cast weights instead of liquid in tires

[sixdogs]

My choice is cast weights over liquid in the tires. It wasn't always that way but happened fast after I got a flat in a filled tire two miles back in the woods in rural Maine. I was on my own and it was a big event. Some people need filled tires because of severe slopes but for most of us, take a look at cast weights if you need it.

If too much, I can take some off. If too little I can add some and when I'm done forever I can sell them for what I paid. Plus, I think they feel better over filled tires. They don't ride as hard either. What's not to love? Here are a couple pics to tell my tale and remember I'm biased because I live on flat ground.









These first pics are off my JD5520. I have two rear weights on each side and they are a great counter to the loader when I pick things up. On the front I have the starter weight block. I think it's 285 lbs. I think the back ones total 500 lbs. For the front I used to add up to 800 lbs of suitcase weights for tillage things or heavy lugging but since I got away from that they haven't been on since. Those are radial tires and that adds a few hundred extra lbs.



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These next two are of my Kubota L4300. It's FWA but is light in the front end and I often pick up 1000 lbs. Without the weights, it's bouncy. Sometimes I bolt some or all on securely and sometimes I just run a threaded rod through and put nuts on. If I'm around the house I will do that and in decades have never lost a weight that was just hanging there. Oh, this is a homemade front weight bracket and NH skid steer weight knock offs. I had the weights so made it work.




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These last two are on an MX5100. Sometimes I take two off so I can hook tie-down straps for trailering. If I'm not on concrete, the weight stays on and it makes the tractor handle much better when it has a heavy implement on the back.


That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Consider cast rather than fluid but that's just my personal opinion.

 

[nybirdman]

My understanding is that cast wheel weights do offer the same counter balance as filled tires.I too have had flats with filled tires;a PITA for sure but a necessity.

 

[sixdogs]

My understanding is that cast wheel weights do offer the same counter balance as filled tires.I too have had flats with filled tires;a PITA for sure but a necessity.

My flat was on an 18.4 x 34 tire and on the other side of the property and waaay back in the woods. There were no tire service trucks where I lived and no one but me and the incessant black flies and mosquitos. Plus it was Spring and the ground was soft and muddy. I started with a 2 mile walk home.

 

[bigtiller]

I like wheel weights too. I had 5 on each side to cover the stub axle on my 3020.

 

[TerryR]

... remember I'm biased because I live on flat ground.

What's flat ground? :confused2:

Terry

 

[TripleR]

I have filled tires and cast weights. but agree if you can get by with one or the other cast weights will work well. Cost keeps a lot of people from using them more and we have only fluid on some of ours.

 

[DJ54]

We went with weights on the IH 656 back in '1990 when the new set of tires went on. We also went with 5 sets on each side. Luckily, we found a eq. jockey that had stacks of the split weights that a lot of guys don't like, and got them cheap. Since we had to put them on by hand, we love them..!! Plus the fact of no calcium to kill grass/trees, if you have a tire leaking.

 

[varmint]

The logic of using them is hard to ignore. Plus, they put the weight on the outside, giving even more stability that loaded tires would. I think they can be pricey, but I also think they would hold their value, if they can be used on more than one particular model tractor?

 

[coobie]

I got both..Filled with added weights.

 

[redman135]

Cast weighs have their place, and for me that is the front of the tractor. Cast on the back adds width and there is always some moron thinks a tractor can fit through a gap smaller than the tractor. Then they blame you for being to wide. For me, is less hassle to have liquid rear. Also I am seldom far from the road. Horses for courses.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I have loaded tires front and rear, and would like to add cast weights as well... if you could see my hillsides you would understand my quest for greater stability and lower center of gravity.

I have kicked around the idea of casting my own concrete weights to fit inside my rear wheels. My neighbor said he has a 5 foot piece of rail road track I can use to carry in my loader bucket or bolt on the front of the tractor. Anything to get more tire contact pressure.

 

[sixdogs]

...
I have kicked around the idea of casting my own concrete weights to fit inside my rear wheels..

There are some old threads on casting concrete and Soundguy made some excellent weights. Maybe search for the threads with the word concrete and his name. Soundguy's weights were first class but others made equally great weights. Used cast iron weights also show up at farm sales around here frequently and often times other brands, especially on more recent tractors, will somewhat interchange.

There is also a site that I have seen mentioned on the TBN that sells knock off foreign made iron weights and shipping is included pretty reasonable in the price.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I am using 10 50# suitcase weights on my BX. I built a rack that attaches to my QH when implements are off. I am in the process of adding a similar rack to the front that attaches to the frame where the snow blade system mounts. I will be able to add them with the FEL on but they will be low down (which is good). I will have the best of both worlds to add weight in increments as need to balance/leverage loads. Luckily I can still lift 50#, getting harder though. I got them from Home Depot On-Line, delivered with no freight charge. The driver had them bound on a pallet and no lift gate. He scratched his head till I told him it was in 10 pieces. Helped him uncrate and unload. Approx $1/#. Loaded tires on a BX are a waste of money.

Ron

 

[C4Ranch]

Wheel Weights - Lonestar Weights

 

[PhysAssist]

What's flat ground? :confused2:

Terry

2+ for that, our hills have hills, and the rest is swamp.

 

[PhysAssist]

We have our rears loaded at 75% with Rimguard and a 675+# ballast box, and while the Rimguard made a tremendous difference in traction and stability, we really hate to take the ballast box off because we're using the loader so much/often and we really hate having the rear wheels off the ground.

There have been numerous discussions on here about weights vs fluid vs ballast boxes, and they each have their pluses and minuses.

The main reason we added the ballast box was to reduce the front axle loading with loader use as well as for traction, and we loaded the tires for added traction to gain traction without stressing the rear axles or widening the clearance needed to fit between obstacles.

As far as I concerned, we will never have a reason to "de-weight" our tractor, and if a leak occurs (and you become aware of it) it's not that hard to rotate the tire so the puncture or leaking valve stem is on the top at 12 o'clock, but then again, my property isn't so big that a leak would leave me stranded 2 miles from my barn.

I actually wanted to have the fronts loaded as well, but our dealer wouldn't hear of it.
Thomas

 

[dirt ditch]

My 790 has 6 - 60 lbs iron weights, 180 lbs each side, 360 lbs total. The weights are compact enough to fit inside the wheels. Weights added around $900 dollars to the cost of the new tractor. Never felt like I needed more weight on this size tractor and never have to mess with calcium leaking or rusting the wheels out.

View attachment 439998 View attachment 439999

 

[MitchellB]

My tractor has pie wheel weights (over 500 pounds per wheel) and fluid filled too. It was just that way when I bought it and I've never changed it. I must say, that all that extra weight will leave nice deep tracks in the yard, even when the ground is dry; but the old girl pulls strong before I get any tire spin.

 

[tman1020]

One of the problems I'm not comfortable with in liquid in the tires option is I don't think it allows the rubber of the tire to perform quite the same way with the resistance of the liquid. My r4 tires without liquid in them grab like crazy. If I were to add liquid to them I'm not sure they would be quite as pliable and also ride even rougher. So for me I'm going to stick with steel. Plus no freezing issues to worry about or leak issues to deal with.

 

[C4Ranch]

If I were to add liquid to them I'm not sure they would be quite as pliable and also ride even rougher. So for me I'm going to stick with steel. Plus no freezing issues to worry about.

Is this based on experience or theory? BTW, filled tires done right won't freeze.