Oil & Fuel First Filter and Fluid Change(50 hrs)

[jinman]

That's a good tip, Jim. Won't work for me though. I always manage to fumble finger at least one drain plug and I can't reach into 5 gal of hot oil to retrieve it. :laughing: Somehow, the floor beneath my tractor looks like an oil spill site by the time I'm done. Thank goodness for the Sunday newspaper. You should see me paint
Dave.

Dave, I use a normal plastic oil drain for engine oil, but use the 5-gal buckets on the hydraulic oil only. I've never changed my hydraulic oil when it was more than warm.

 

[barbqranch]

Regarding the drain valve, I have yet to need to change mine. If it is real exposed, I can see how you would need a plug. I just have 11 acres of field to mow, as well as other ranch duties of carrying and digging. My thought was to use the valve to drain the bulk of the oil, then the other two drains wouldn't overflow the bucket.

 

[Soundguy]

my ford and NH manuals all have capacities in the back.

to the OP

get a good 'C' rated oil.. most here are using 15w40, unless in a severe climate.

as for filters.. some cross , some don't. I just get them from my dealer.

soundguy

I wonder if they gave you all the manuals. I can't believe there are no capacities listed in the 'real' manual. Maybe things have changed since I bought my tractor in '03 ?

Is there a decal pasted to the underside of the hood that gives the service intervals? Might be, used to be.

Guess you need another T1510 hydro owner to add to this, compare the manual situation.

I would be talking to another dealer if I couldn't improve the service level you are getting. You can try messicks.com, one of the great TBN advertisers. They have lots of online info - and mail order :thumbsup:
Dave.

 

[Soundguy]

Better order 3; that's how many you will need to replace all the hyd drain plugs. May be OK for a lawn or pavement queen, but not a good idea for tractors uses in the woods or brush. I wouldn't want anything less substantial or lower/longer than a solid plug keeping the oil in my tractors.

I heard that.. anything down there tha can be broke off and let my oil out seems like a bad idea IMHO!

soundguy

 

[jinman]

This certainly seems like a good idea, but will a 5 gallon bucket even fit under the plug without having to drive the tractor up on ramps?

On my tractor, 5 gallon metal paint buckets easily fit under the running gear and rear transmission/axle. I've never tried them under the engine oil drains, so I'm not sure about those.

 

[devongarver]

On my tractor, 5 gallon metal paint buckets easily fit under the running gear and rear transmission/axle. I've never tried them under the engine oil drains, so I'm not sure about those.

Hmmm very well then, I will give this a go tomorrow for sure! Thanks for all the help guys!!

 

[Soundguy]

On my tractor, 5 gallon metal paint buckets easily fit under the running gear and rear transmission/axle. I've never tried them under the engine oil drains, so I'm not sure about those.

for sure one thing I like about my 5000 and 7610s... can do maintenance mostly standing up.. no work on a creeper..

soundguy

 

[dave1949]

Dave, I use a normal plastic oil drain for engine oil, but use the 5-gal buckets on the hydraulic oil only. I've never changed my hydraulic oil when it was more than warm.

I have no idea how much, if any, it matters. My manual says the fluids should be at normal operating temp when drained. I'm sure mine aren't at full temp, but I try to get it while it's still too warm to want to leave your hand in it for very long. With modern detergent oils, you just don't see sludge build up like in the old days.
Dave.

 

[devongarver]

Well sorry for taking so long to update, but i changed out the Hydraulic and HST filters, as well as the engine oil and filter, and the fuel filter this weekend. Everything went pretty well, especially after I realized that side panel could come off with the wing nuts lol. I didn't see them at first, and I'm like "how the heck am i supposed to get ahold of the fuel filter with this in the way!!!" After the changed, I topped off the hydraulic fluid and away i went to do some more digging. Let me tell you, it ran like brand new again! Idled smoother, had more digging power, the response in the joystick for the FEL was night and day from what it was last week! It's definitely enough to make me want to keep up with the mnaufacturer's maintenance schedule!!

Thanks again for the help guys!

 

[Soundguy]

will help it live longer if it is well maintained too.

soundguy

 

[dave1949]

I always believe my engine runs smoother after changing the fuel filter too.

I'm sure there is a bit of psychology at work also. Just like after washing, waxing and cleaning the interior of your car - it seems to drive better
Dave.

 

[rherold]

Quick question about the Rotella Triple T Protection oil. On the bottle itself, I found nothing that states for diesel engines. Am I being to over cautious, blind, or did I buy the wrong oil?

 

[jinman]

Quick question about the Rotella Triple T Protection oil. On the bottle itself, I found nothing that states for diesel engines. Am I being to over cautious, blind, or did I buy the wrong oil?

Check out this document.

 

[Soundguy]

Quick question about the Rotella Triple T Protection oil. On the bottle itself, I found nothing that states for diesel engines. Am I being to over cautious, blind, or did I buy the wrong oil?

blind maybee

what was the api rating.. 'S' or 'C' you want 'C'.. CI4 is a common rating you see today.


S/C are ( service / comercial ) ratings.. however as a cheat.. think of them likethis.. S for spark ie.. gassers.. and C for compression ie.. diesels.

many diesel oils you see will be 15w40 .. and sometimes you can find 10w30 in cold environments.. as well as straight 30w and 40w for some heavy equipment applications.. there are others.. but 15-40 is the more common one for a diesel in moderate climates, at least in dino oil anyway.


soundguy

 

[nov51947]

To all of you who contributed to this thread:

I know it is an old thread, but it has answered just about every question this new T1510 owner has about maintaining my tractor. I hope every reader gets as much out of this as I have!

Thanks again.

Karl

 

[rherold]

Congrats on your new tractor Karl. You just reminded me its time to do some maintenance on my tractor before the weather turns on us.

Rick

To all of you who contributed to this thread:

I know it is an old thread, but it has answered just about every question this new T1510 owner has about maintaining my tractor. I hope every reader gets as much out of this as I have!

Thanks again.

Karl

 

[devongarver]

Well, talk about dragging up an old thread, but I am planning to change out the hydraulic fluid on my tractor before winter, and after pushing snow the last few years I am wondering if I can move to a slightly thinner oil that I can still use year round. With our cold weather we have been having, especially last year, it is taking 20-30 mins to warm up the tractor enough to even use the hydraulics. I am talking +10F and colder. Last year it was as cold as -40F, which set records here. I am looking for a good year round replacement that will work with the HST requirements as well. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Soundguy]

Premium utf's perhaps even synthetic. Check viscosity specs and pour point #'s

 

[devongarver]

Premium utf's perhaps even synthetic. Check viscosity specs and pour point #'s

OK, I see why i didn't find what I needed at first, I was looking for synthetic UTF...but google kept auto-correcting it to synthetic turf lol. How does THIS look? Here is another sheet..it looks like it should work, but i don't see an actually lower temperature limit listed. Is the "Pour Point" a representation of this? It list's -42C which should be good as that is about as cold as I have seen in my life, coincidentally that was last year lol. I have had very good results using shell Rotella T6 in pretty much everything I own, I am definitely impressed with Shell products, and wouldn't mind staying with them.

 

[Soundguy]

that shell spirax sure looks good. meets NH specs Ford New Holland M2C-134, A-D,
FNHA-2 D.201.00, MAT-3525, and looks like one of it's key points is low temp operation.

No doubt it's better than any basic store branded product.