A few questions before I order a tooth bar...

   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar... #41  
Thanks, i was eyeballing some adapter and teeth kits on Ebay and figured i could round up some flat stock but still wasn't sure that I'd be coming out far enough ahead to make it worth while. I never really figure in welding consumables on my projects, they're just more of a monthly expense!!
 
   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar...
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Thanks, i was eyeballing some adapter and teeth kits on Ebay and figured i could round up some flat stock but still wasn't sure that I'd be coming out far enough ahead to make it worth while. I never really figure in welding consumables on my projects, they're just more of a monthly expense!!

When I was out at the GET dealer, we tried a dozen different styles of 230 series adapters and only one was a great fit with my cutting edge and a 1/2" bar.

One of my fears was that a prefabbed TB would not fit as well as I would like, hence this DIY project.
 
   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar... #43  
When I was out at the GET dealer, we tried a dozen different styles of 230 series adapters and only one was a great fit with my cutting edge and a 1/2" bar.

One of my fears was that a prefabbed TB would not fit as well as I would like, hence this DIY project.

The fit of the adapters is one of my concerns with building my own. I can't think of anywhere locally where I'd be able to get my hands on them to check them out so its going to be an order and hope situation. However my cutting edge has some wear on it anyhow so none will probably fit the same across the edge anyhow. I was looking at these, if the link works, http://m.ebay.com/itm/6-PENGO-BUCKE...ITS-ON-MOST-/171077539825?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
 
   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar... #44  
I also built my own tooth bar.
Best tool I have, should have done that years ago.
Normal flat stock is all you need for the bar, nothing special. (mild steel)
I used 3/8 X 2 1/2 stock so that the tooth holders had full contact with the flat. (might vary with your holders)
The main concern is that there not be a lot of slop or rocking motion.
I bolt my ears with 3/8 hardware with no problems, in fact the bolts are loose.
When I ordered the teeth and holders I got a few extra teeth 'just in case' but being hardened I now think the teeth will outlast the tractor.

More than a few times when attempting to lift or pry something too heavy I have actually raised the rear end so that attests to the sturdiness of clamp on tooth bars.

As to cost, at the time I laid out just a bit over $100 for the actual purchase not counting shipping.

Should have installed that bar years ago.
As it is I am on about my 8th year with the bar and never take it off.
 
   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar... #45  
I have a Kubota BX24 that weighs about 3K. I made a bolt on tooth bar with 5 purchased replaceable teeth. The hardened teeth mount onto mild steel bar posts that are welded to a mild steel bar, (which is bolted to my 4' bucket).
I could put everything that my 23 HP tractor has into breaking just one of those teeth and it ain't gonna happen. The tooth bar is a HUGE benefit when I am digging rocks in red clay. I think that you have been listening to too many high HP tractor folks. Or maybe, you just think that your 20 hp tractor is stronger than it is.
 
   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar...
  • Thread Starter
#46  
I used 3/8 X 2 1/2 stock so that the tooth holders had full contact with the flat. (might vary with your holders)
The main concern is that there not be a lot of slop or rocking motion.
I bolt my ears with 3/8 hardware with no problems, in fact the bolts are loose.

With the adapters I selected the 1/2" bar will fit flush with the bucket and the adapters.
Also a good snug fit with my 5/8" cutting edge.
One thing the GET dealer mentioned is that you want a slight gap between the tip of the cutting edge and the adapter... good example in photo.
jisadf.jpg


A couple of the TB manufacturers I spoke with also said that the bolts could be only snug and it would not affect the rigidity of the TB.
 
   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar...
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I have a Kubota BX24 that weighs about 3K. I made a bolt on tooth bar with 5 purchased replaceable teeth. The hardened teeth mount onto mild steel bar posts that are welded to a mild steel bar, (which is bolted to my 4' bucket).
I could put everything that my 23 HP tractor has into breaking just one of those teeth and it ain't gonna happen. The tooth bar is a HUGE benefit when I am digging rocks in red clay. I think that you have been listening to too many high HP tractor folks. Or maybe, you just think that your 20 hp tractor is stronger than it is.

Just trying to get appropriate information and with everyone's help here, I have.
The GET dealer that I've been dealing with mainly deals with equipment this size and larger...
IMG_1703.jpg

... and their tooth bar experience was for the most part limited to mid to large size skid steers, probably 8-13k lbs as it turns out.
Much of their advice can also carry over to smaller equipment though.

For the record though... The Ingersoll 7020 is the latest generation of the Case 600 series garden tractor loaders.
Originally designed by the construction division of Case as a loader, not a tractor with a loader added to it.
Hence the 938 lbs lift capacity at full height. And it all fits in the bed of my pickup with the tailgate closed.
... but yes, I do think its a 10,000 lb skid steer at times. :)

If nobody has any comments about the TB being bolted to the bottom, rather than the sides which you normally see... I'll just go with a side mount design.
 
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   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar... #48  
I don't think there is any doubt that adapters properly welded onto a bucket are stronger than a tooth bar.
Emphasis on "properly welded". The GET dealer told me it would take an entire day to weld on 5-6 adapters when you take into consideration all the preheat and slow cooling steps required to weld hardened steel.

I bought 7 weld on adapters and welded them on to my skid steer bucket. It is a tracked machine with a 6,000 lb breakout force.

I didn't do any special procedures just welded them on with a 6010 root pass and 7018 cover. No preheat and no special cooling. This was a few months ago and we have used the snot out of it since then. I haven't broke one off yet. I put all 7 on in 1-2 hours.
 
   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar...
  • Thread Starter
#49  
I bought 7 weld on adapters and welded them on to my skid steer bucket. It is a tracked machine with a 6,000 lb breakout force.

I didn't do any special procedures just welded them on with a 6010 root pass and 7018 cover. No preheat and no special cooling. This was a few months ago and we have used the snot out of it since then. I haven't broke one off yet. I put all 7 on in 1-2 hours.

Ok... you've convinced me !!!
Thanks for the information.
I've only put 30 hrs on it in almost 2 years, so I guess I'll stop worrying about and get it done.

I laughed when I looked at the breakout force for a medium sized CAT loader and my Ingersoll.
I think the preheat/slow cool process might be a bit more important for something that size.

58,531 lbs vs. 1,500 lbs

:laughing:::duh:
 
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   / A few questions before I order a tooth bar... #50  
I bolted my tooth bar on five years ago and really can't think why I would ever want to take it off. Back dragging is done with the heel of the bucket. I prefer the tooth bar over the piranha.

I'll take beauty shots any day of the week.

Don't knock the PTB if you haven't tried it- I feel the same about my PTB as you do about your toothbar.

It has not only made digging and other edge intensive bucket work more efficient and easier, it strengthens and stiffens the bucket edge too.
 
 

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