Box blade will not completely lower

[Coyote machine]

This is what yours should look like. Also shorten the top link so that the front cutting edge is just about 1/2" lower than the rear cutting edge for your work tomorrow.

Nice one Brian!:thumbsup: Did you get yourself a Kioti? Here's hoping....
Good description for the OP.

To the OP, hopefully your dealer's techs have better skills than whoever set up your 3PT hitch assembly.
If it were my tractor, I'd go over it with a fine tooth comb, to make sure everything is as it's supposed to be.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nice one Brian!:thumbsup: Did you get yourself a Kioti? Here's hoping....
Good description for the OP.

To the OP, hopefully your dealer's techs have better skills than whoever set up your 3PT hitch assembly.
If it were my tractor, I'd go over it with a fine tooth comb, to make sure everything is as it's supposed to be.

No new tractor, just one of many pics that I have from my tractor research.

 

[VictorW]

you have 4 connections backwards (2 on each side)
just swap your connection points and all should be good.

the bars / turnbuckles are all good. just you have them connected in the wrong holes in the lower lift arms.

View attachment 444265

swaping them around should also tighen up the "sway bar/chain" on each side as well.

Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer = good amount of videos / detailed description of stuff. suggest taking a watch / read over a few of the videos on various box blades and like. that should cover the basics of a box blade setup.

Swapping the connections as you mentioned is right. I still think the left lift arm is on backwards though. Mine has the left lift arm mounted with those three holes in a row, third picture, inwards to the tractor case pivot mounting. This allows me to mount the non-adjustable side like in more than one location which allows the lift range to change. Then I use the adjustable right side link to match or adjust as needed.

 

[Skidrowe18]

Thanks for all the help. I moved the connections and everything works much better. I can't believe that the 3PH was set up wrong from the dealer. This is one of the few kioti dealers in the state and the only one locally and I know they have a pretty high volume sine the kioti plant is 5 miles away. The left arm looks like its correct. I checked as much as I could thing of that might also be a problem and could not find anything else. If there are any suggestions other thank fluids and grease let me know.

I am have a **** of a time keeping the pins in for all of the connections adding lots of wire to reenforce them.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

What pins are you talking about? They have snap pins just for this.

 

[s219]

Yeah, I have never needed to wire pins for any of my tractors. Is it possible the dealer screwed that up too? Wrong types of pins?

 

[Skidrowe18]

Can't blame this on the dealer but maybe kioti. Most are cheap cotter pins or very weak Lynch pins that have been pulled out by twigs and lost. Not sure if you can tell from the pictures but the left side check chainn had to be replaced since its held on by a pin that must have been pulled out and then the chain must have vibrated loose and lost in the wild. Kioti want $80 for their, I think the $20 one will work fine...

 

[boggen]

Thanks for all the help. I moved the connections and everything works much better. I can't believe that the 3PH was set up wrong from the dealer. This is one of the few kioti dealers in the state and the only one locally and I know they have a pretty high volume sine the kioti plant is 5 miles away. The left arm looks like its correct. I checked as much as I could thing of that might also be a problem and could not find anything else. If there are any suggestions other thank fluids and grease let me know.

I am have a **** of a time keeping the pins in for all of the connections adding lots of wire to reenforce them.

View attachment 444406

the pins are not the issue. it is the "turn buckles" really long nuts. that can be an issue. have had them come unscrewed and lost for good.

i edited your image to show 3 places within picture were you might want to place a piece of wire. then put one on the "top link" turnbuckle as well. the 4 locations just see to much vibration and yanking and pulling and the stinking turn buckles (long nuts) come undone. more than i care to count and trip to local store. there is normally a secondary regular nut you can tighten, but that is still pain in rear to use and still have came loose.



the little cotter pins, "small little wire pins" holding the larger 1/2" to 1" pins in. it has been rare when i have lost one of them. well i take that back, when i am taking stuff apart to fix it or change something out, then i loose the stinking cotter pins, but just general operation, the small little cotter pins it has been rather rare, and am having a hard time remember when i have lost one. i suppose when i have bent / cracked and pulled something apart and pretty much completely beat the smitherens out of something i have lost some cotter pins. or the rare time i hit some sort of stick that shot up and did something, but i can only remember a couple times? if that in my life.

 

[Skidrowe18]

These are the types of cotter pins that were on the tractor


I can easily pull these out and have lost 3 so far and thats how lost the check chain. Seems that going through some of the brush and twigs they just were yanked out. The expandle cotter pins would work well but would be a pain to remove. I have wired about every pin I could find since I keep loosing things.

 

[Coyote machine]

These are the types of cotter pins that were on the tractor
View attachment 444420

I can easily pull these out and have lost 3 so far and thats how lost the check chain. Seems that going through some of the brush and twigs they just were yanked out. The expandle cotter pins would work well but would be a pain to remove. I have wired about every pin I could find since I keep loosing things.

Those are NOT the correct pins that should come with the tractor, and thus why you lost your chain. They correct pins are (snap type spring loaded) lynch pins: Set of 10 Tractor 3 Point Hitch Linch Pins 7 16" | eBay

And I would get your dealer to give you the correct hardware for the entire 3PH, AND the needed pins, AND a new chain. Their bogus hardware is what caused you to loose your chain!
It's no wonder you're loosing pieces- have them replace everything with the gold colored hardware- it's treated, unlike the clevis end?,(U-bolt) and bolt on the left side support for the 3PH arm, too.

And, check every bolt for being tight on the tractor, starting with the wheel lugs, loader frame bolts, and every other external bolt on the tractor. Fan belt snug, etc.

Check ALL zerks for grease and functionality too. Sometimes some won't take grease or are broken or whatever. You will only find the zerks at the dealer's - they are NOT available elsewhere....

Keep at it, you're on your way to way fewer problems caused by idiots who set your 3PH up all wrong.
BTW, great follow-up pic of the corrected 3PH setup!

Geeze, any dealer should be ashamed of sending something out in that condition. Especially since they're so close to Kioti HQ?!
YIKES!!

Just noticed something else. Where the bent pins go into your 3PH arms there should be flat square head pins that use the lynch pins I depicted in the link above. The pins should look like the gold colored ones where your upper arms already are using the lynch pins. They will need to be the correct length/diameter for the lower arm fitment....