Box blade will not completely lower

[Coyote machine]

This is what yours should look like. Also shorten the top link so that the front cutting edge is just about 1/2" lower than the rear cutting edge for your work tomorrow.

Nice one Brian!:thumbsup: Did you get yourself a Kioti? Here's hoping....
Good description for the OP.

To the OP, hopefully your dealer's techs have better skills than whoever set up your 3PT hitch assembly.
If it were my tractor, I'd go over it with a fine tooth comb, to make sure everything is as it's supposed to be.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nice one Brian!:thumbsup: Did you get yourself a Kioti? Here's hoping....
Good description for the OP.

To the OP, hopefully your dealer's techs have better skills than whoever set up your 3PT hitch assembly.
If it were my tractor, I'd go over it with a fine tooth comb, to make sure everything is as it's supposed to be.

No new tractor, just one of many pics that I have from my tractor research.

 

[VictorW]

you have 4 connections backwards (2 on each side)
just swap your connection points and all should be good.

the bars / turnbuckles are all good. just you have them connected in the wrong holes in the lower lift arms.

View attachment 444265

swaping them around should also tighen up the "sway bar/chain" on each side as well.

Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer = good amount of videos / detailed description of stuff. suggest taking a watch / read over a few of the videos on various box blades and like. that should cover the basics of a box blade setup.

Swapping the connections as you mentioned is right. I still think the left lift arm is on backwards though. Mine has the left lift arm mounted with those three holes in a row, third picture, inwards to the tractor case pivot mounting. This allows me to mount the non-adjustable side like in more than one location which allows the lift range to change. Then I use the adjustable right side link to match or adjust as needed.

 

[Skidrowe18]

Thanks for all the help. I moved the connections and everything works much better. I can't believe that the 3PH was set up wrong from the dealer. This is one of the few kioti dealers in the state and the only one locally and I know they have a pretty high volume sine the kioti plant is 5 miles away. The left arm looks like its correct. I checked as much as I could thing of that might also be a problem and could not find anything else. If there are any suggestions other thank fluids and grease let me know.

I am have a **** of a time keeping the pins in for all of the connections adding lots of wire to reenforce them.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

What pins are you talking about? They have snap pins just for this.

 

[s219]

Yeah, I have never needed to wire pins for any of my tractors. Is it possible the dealer screwed that up too? Wrong types of pins?

 

[Skidrowe18]

Can't blame this on the dealer but maybe kioti. Most are cheap cotter pins or very weak Lynch pins that have been pulled out by twigs and lost. Not sure if you can tell from the pictures but the left side check chainn had to be replaced since its held on by a pin that must have been pulled out and then the chain must have vibrated loose and lost in the wild. Kioti want $80 for their, I think the $20 one will work fine...

 

[boggen]

Thanks for all the help. I moved the connections and everything works much better. I can't believe that the 3PH was set up wrong from the dealer. This is one of the few kioti dealers in the state and the only one locally and I know they have a pretty high volume sine the kioti plant is 5 miles away. The left arm looks like its correct. I checked as much as I could thing of that might also be a problem and could not find anything else. If there are any suggestions other thank fluids and grease let me know.

I am have a **** of a time keeping the pins in for all of the connections adding lots of wire to reenforce them.

View attachment 444406

the pins are not the issue. it is the "turn buckles" really long nuts. that can be an issue. have had them come unscrewed and lost for good.

i edited your image to show 3 places within picture were you might want to place a piece of wire. then put one on the "top link" turnbuckle as well. the 4 locations just see to much vibration and yanking and pulling and the stinking turn buckles (long nuts) come undone. more than i care to count and trip to local store. there is normally a secondary regular nut you can tighten, but that is still pain in rear to use and still have came loose.



the little cotter pins, "small little wire pins" holding the larger 1/2" to 1" pins in. it has been rare when i have lost one of them. well i take that back, when i am taking stuff apart to fix it or change something out, then i loose the stinking cotter pins, but just general operation, the small little cotter pins it has been rather rare, and am having a hard time remember when i have lost one. i suppose when i have bent / cracked and pulled something apart and pretty much completely beat the smitherens out of something i have lost some cotter pins. or the rare time i hit some sort of stick that shot up and did something, but i can only remember a couple times? if that in my life.

 

[Skidrowe18]

These are the types of cotter pins that were on the tractor


I can easily pull these out and have lost 3 so far and thats how lost the check chain. Seems that going through some of the brush and twigs they just were yanked out. The expandle cotter pins would work well but would be a pain to remove. I have wired about every pin I could find since I keep loosing things.

 

[Coyote machine]

These are the types of cotter pins that were on the tractor
View attachment 444420

I can easily pull these out and have lost 3 so far and thats how lost the check chain. Seems that going through some of the brush and twigs they just were yanked out. The expandle cotter pins would work well but would be a pain to remove. I have wired about every pin I could find since I keep loosing things.

Those are NOT the correct pins that should come with the tractor, and thus why you lost your chain. They correct pins are (snap type spring loaded) lynch pins: Set of 10 Tractor 3 Point Hitch Linch Pins 7 16" | eBay

And I would get your dealer to give you the correct hardware for the entire 3PH, AND the needed pins, AND a new chain. Their bogus hardware is what caused you to loose your chain!
It's no wonder you're loosing pieces- have them replace everything with the gold colored hardware- it's treated, unlike the clevis end?,(U-bolt) and bolt on the left side support for the 3PH arm, too.

And, check every bolt for being tight on the tractor, starting with the wheel lugs, loader frame bolts, and every other external bolt on the tractor. Fan belt snug, etc.

Check ALL zerks for grease and functionality too. Sometimes some won't take grease or are broken or whatever. You will only find the zerks at the dealer's - they are NOT available elsewhere....

Keep at it, you're on your way to way fewer problems caused by idiots who set your 3PH up all wrong.
BTW, great follow-up pic of the corrected 3PH setup!

Geeze, any dealer should be ashamed of sending something out in that condition. Especially since they're so close to Kioti HQ?!
YIKES!!

Just noticed something else. Where the bent pins go into your 3PH arms there should be flat square head pins that use the lynch pins I depicted in the link above. The pins should look like the gold colored ones where your upper arms already are using the lynch pins. They will need to be the correct length/diameter for the lower arm fitment....

 

[boggen]

*rubs chin* your luck my luck differ. my luck. normally bad luck.. = me needing to go to local store. and get lynch pins. plus wire the lynch pins in as well.

but the cotter pins. i have, have been there heck and back, and still there. the cotter pins "do not know what diameter" normally require me to use a pair of pliers and more likely channel locks to pull off. to close to other stuff to get my finger/s in there to pull cotter pin off.

not sure what grade of metal the cotter pins are made out of either. they would need a vise and a sledge hammer and maybe some heat to get them to bend out of whack. and can be rather hard to pull /yank off, and then a slight tap of a hammer to put them back on.

on other hand. have seen some lower grade metal cotter pins. that was almost like copper. soft material and look at it wrong. and they would bend out of shape. heck pulling them off and putting them on they would bend.

 

[paulfun9]

Those are NOT the correct pins that should come with the tractor, and thus why you lost your chain. They correct pins are (snap type spring loaded) lynch pins: Set of 10 Tractor 3 Point Hitch Linch Pins 7 16" | eBay

And I would get your dealer to give you the correct hardware for the entire 3PH, AND the needed pins, AND a new chain. Their bogus hardware is what caused you to loose your chain!
It's no wonder you're loosing pieces- have them replace everything with the gold colored hardware- it's treated, unlike the clevis end?,(U-bolt) and bolt on the left side support for the 3PH arm, too.

And, check every bolt for being tight on the tractor, starting with the wheel lugs, loader frame bolts, and every other external bolt on the tractor. Fan belt snug, etc.

Check ALL zerks for grease and functionality too. Sometimes some won't take grease or are broken or whatever. You will only find the zerks at the dealer's - they are NOT available elsewhere....

Keep at it, you're on your way to way fewer problems caused by idiots who set your 3PH up all wrong.
BTW, great follow-up pic of the corrected 3PH setup!

Geeze, any dealer should be ashamed of sending something out in that condition. Especially since they're so close to Kioti HQ?!
YIKES!!

Just noticed something else. Where the bent pins go into your 3PH arms there should be flat square head pins that use the lynch pins I depicted in the link above. The pins should look like the gold colored ones where your upper arms already are using the lynch pins. They will need to be the correct length/diameter for the lower arm fitment....

Good advice here! If the dealer was that bad at set up of the simple stuff, I would be going over every inch of the machine to ensure nothing else is going to cause problems.

 

[TJP89]

My opinion is that your dealer, or whoever sets up his tractors, is an idiot. As others have noticed, the 3PTH was wrong, and I think most of the pins are wrong too. On my 3PTH, a few of the pins are the normal cotter. But, they are where the bigger pins wouldn't fit, and really aren't necessary. However, I have lost the one that holds in the pin that connects the lift arm to the hydraulic arm. Easily replaced. The others should be the snap type that one uses to connect 3 point implements. Biggest thing I noticed was that most of the pins were not painted black from the factory, as ALL of my pins are, that tells me the dealer is doing something screwy. I'd so over the tractor, from the 3Pth to the loader pins, and check the position and torque of literally everything against spec. For all you know he could have decided the ROPS bolts didn't need to be tightened to spec or something equally stupid. Luckily everything really important is factory done.

 

[Skidrowe18]

Coyote machine, you asked about the bent pens. That was the first casualty of a missing cotter pen. I think this is what you were talking about


I could not find any of these so I replaced both of them. I have been going over the machine and so far have not found any other items. I did have a backhoe attached so maybe they had a newbie reattach the 3ph. But the cheap cotter pins are what realty throw me. I wonder fanyone else with a new model ck3510 can take a look and see might have been used for theirs.

 

[Coyote machine]

Coyote machine, you asked about the bent pens. That was the first casualty of a missing cotter pen. I think this is what you were talking about
View attachment 444518

I could not find any of these so I replaced both of them. I have been going over the machine and so far have not found any other items. I did have a backhoe attached so maybe they had a newbie reattach the 3ph. But the cheap cotter pins are what realty throw me. I wonder fanyone else with a new model ck3510 can take a look and see might have been used for theirs.

Yes, those gold color square flat head pins are the correct ones for the place you currently have the bent ones.
Get your dealer to make it right for all the missing pieces, lynch pins, and chain, etc.
A good way to get to know your tractor is to get a grease gun and start finding all the zerks and begin greasing them regularly.
Keep us posted as to your results with the dealer resolution. :thumbsup:

 

[Buggs67]

Check ALL zerks for grease and functionality too. Sometimes some won't take grease or are broken or whatever. You will only find the zerks at the dealer's - they are NOT available elsewhere....

.

Re: replacement zerks.
I had broken one of my zerks and looked for a long time for replacements. I finally found that they are british pipe thread and available at Grangier and Zorro. Kingfisher Grease Fitting, Str, 1/8-28, PK10 3ANZ2 | Zoro.com

I did go to the dealer and he was out-of-stock.

 

[Buggs67]

Check ALL zerks for grease and functionality too. Sometimes some won't take grease or are broken or whatever. You will only find the zerks at the dealer's - they are NOT available elsewhere....

.

Re: replacement zerks.
I had broken one of my zerks and looked for a long time for replacements. I finally found that they are british pipe thread and available at Grangier and Zorro. Kingfisher Grease Fitting, Str, 1/8-28, PK10 3ANZ2 | Zoro.com

I did go to the dealer and he was out-of-stock.

 

[Coyote machine]

Have you actually used the zerks you cite in your link? Do they in fact fit with no cross threading at all?
What is the Grainger part #?

BTW, you can edit your post and remove the duplicate by deleting it....

Oh, I was aware there were BPT zerks, but have never tried an actual one, why I ask, for fitment.
They're not that expensive through Kioti dealers, from my experience. If you can verify that they fit with no problems- that would provide additional sources for Kioti owners.

Thanks.:thumbsup:

 

[ksbrdmkr]

I would also move the Ferguson pins(linch pins) to the inside of the 3pt arms so there is lest chance of brush catching them. For history of the 3pt see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-point_hitch

 

[Buggs67]

Have you actually used the zerks you cite in your link? Do they in fact fit with no cross threading at all?
What is the Grainger part #?

BTW, you can edit your post and remove the duplicate by deleting it....

Oh, I was aware there were BPT zerks, but have never tried an actual one, why I ask, for fitment.
They're not that expensive through Kioti dealers, from my experience. If you can verify that they fit with no problems- that would provide additional sources for Kioti owners.

Thanks.:thumbsup:

I only used one to replace the broken one and it threaded in w/out trouble with my fingers. I'll try another one and advise if it isn't right.

IDK the Grangier part #; it came up when I did a google search and I was gonna drive 14 miles to get some but they were out of stock. As they were at my dealer who is 15 miles/25 minutes away. Otherwise I would've bought them from him.