Buying Advice Early '60's MF 35 Utility

[TomSeller]

Can you take pictures and post them?

 

[shaeff]

Can you take pictures and post them?

Of where the oil is coming from? Or when (if) I split the tractor, either way, yes, I'll post some pictures. The tractor is currently at my parents' house, as that's where all my tools are. My wife and I just built our home and I have no garage yet, so all major work gets done in my father's garage.

I'll try to get over there again tomorrow and snap a few pics of where the oil is coming from.

 

[Kenneth S]

190697M1 Boot, Dust (Rubber), 832826M1 Clamp, Boot.


It does have to be split since the flywheel is throwing water, and oil around in the bellhousing. A clutch kit, transmission seals, and rear main seal on the engine should be replaced (might as well while you have it split). In the very bottom of the bellhousing there should be a small hole with a cotter pin sticking out of it (the cotter pin rotates in the hole to keep it open so any oil can drain). I'll bet the cotter pin is missing, and the hole is plugged with dirt.

 

[TomSeller]

Are you going to be to keep the old girl under cover? That helps a lot in keeping her fresh.

 

[shaeff]

190697M1 Boot, Dust (Rubber), 832826M1 Clamp, Boot.


It does have to be split since the flywheel is throwing water, and oil around in the bellhousing. A clutch kit, transmission seals, and rear main seal on the engine should be replaced (might as well while you have it split). In the very bottom of the bellhousing there should be a small hole with a cotter pin sticking out of it (the cotter pin rotates in the hole to keep it open so any oil can drain). I'll bet the cotter pin is missing, and the hole is plugged with dirt.

Thanks! I'll order that along with a few other odds and ends/ tune up stuff. I'll check to see if that bottom hole is plugged, it must be if it's pushing nasty oil out of that larger hole. I suppose it's time to start researching how to split these things.

Are you going to be to keep the old girl under cover? That helps a lot in keeping her fresh.

Yep, it's been under a cover for at least the past five years, and since I've owned it I've had it covered with a good tarp, and covered the shifters with a separate bag that's tied in place to prevent water ingress.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I don't think anyone has mentioned this yet, but if you look under the tractor where the bell housing is (under the clutch) you will see a plate that is held on with 4 bolts and in front of that should be a cotter key,,,upside down.... you can take the bolts out and all that stuff will come out and you can look up and see the clutches/pressure plate... I think your trans absorbed a bunch of water over the years and has buoyed the trans/hyd fluid up till it started seeping thru the seal. take that cover off and then drain the trans...hopefully you won't have to split it. who knows? BobG in VA

 

[Garycw]

I 2nd that. Splitting would be a last resort for me

 

[Jerry/MT]

Make sure you change those boots on top so you don't get anymore water in it and change your fluid too.

While being left out side with leaky boots over the shift levers can cause water to get into the transhydraulic oil, condensation and non-use or low usage will cause the same thing. SO don't think that leaky shifter boots replacement will cure the problem completely. You have to work the snot out of the tractor occasionally and let the warmed up oil evaporate the water.

 

[shaeff]

I don't think anyone has mentioned this yet, but if you look under the tractor where the bell housing is (under the clutch) you will see a plate that is held on with 4 bolts and in front of that should be a cotter key,,,upside down.... you can take the bolts out and all that stuff will come out and you can look up and see the clutches/pressure plate... I think your trans absorbed a bunch of water over the years and has buoyed the trans/hyd fluid up till it started seeping thru the seal. take that cover off and then drain the trans...hopefully you won't have to split it. who knows? BobG in VA

Thanks for the tip, Bob, I'll definitely check it out!

I 2nd that. Splitting would be a last resort for me

You and me both!

While being left out side with leaky boots over the shift levers can cause water to get into the transhydraulic oil, condensation and non-use or low usage will cause the same thing. SO don't think that leaky shifter boots replacement will cure the problem completely. You have to work the snot out of the tractor occasionally and let the warmed up oil evaporate the water.

This tractor will see LOTS of use clearing snow all winter, moving firewood around, brush hogging in summer, and finish mowing a minimum of 2.5 rolling acres, unless I decide to finish mow the entire 4.5 acre lot.

I've still got a good deal of clearing to do as well, that'll work it for sure.

Edit: from what I've been able to find, most guys seem to run straight 30wt mineral oil in the motor, trans, and hydraulics. Is that correct? Thanks, all!

 

[Garycw]

I think you're correct on the oil. At tsc if near you you'll find the oil specified for old ford tractors. I was told to run all hydraulic oil in transmission , hydraulics & rear end. I like the idea of good 85w in trans though.