Buying Advice Early '60's MF 35 Utility

[shaeff]

Yep, those studs hold the lift cylinder to the top cover, it probably blew the o-ring between the cylinder, and lift cover. The top cover will have to come off to fix that, one you get to the cylinder you can see what size it is, and look into it to see what it needs (might as well while you have it out).

Ah nuts. I checked out prices for a new cylinder (naked) and it's pretty cheap, so regardless it looks to be a relatively simple fix even if it needs the cylinder and all the guts. My father has a 34hp Kubota, so lifting that cover off won't be difficult. Should be safe to assume that this is why my hitch can be lifted and lowered by hand with ease and no resistance? Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[Kenneth S]

I wouldn't be surprised if the cylinder is not even attached to the top cover which would explain the 45 degree angle on the rod from the piston to arm for the 3 point.

 

[shaeff]

I'm pretty sure it's no longer attached. I wasn't sure what it was supposed to look like when I took a peak in there. After looking at the parts diagrams I realized it's definitely not right. I know 3 of the 4 studs are snapped, I can move them with my fingers.

The other may just be corroded in place, which is why I can't move it by hand. I'll see if I can get that plate pulled off next weekend, and order necessary parts to get it fixed.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Those are pretty big bolts so if they are broken, it would take a pretty good load to do that. The "dog bone" between the rockshaft lever and the piston is probably not touching so the lift won't lift.

 

[shaeff]

I'm hoping that it's a simple pull apart, check for worn parts, put back together operation. I'm getting to the point where I could really be using this tractor almost daily.

 

[Jerry/MT]

I'm hoping that it's a simple pull apart, check for worn parts, put back together operation. I'm getting to the point where I could really be using this tractor almost daily.

You'll need good manual before you take the lift cover off. There are things you have to disconnect before you lift it. Look over the lugs on the lift cylinder before you just bolt it back up It took some big lads to break those attach bolt so the cylinder lugs could be damaged.

 

[shaeff]

You'll need good manual before you take the lift cover off. There are things you have to disconnect before you lift it. Look over the lugs on the lift cylinder before you just bolt it back up It took some big lads to break those attach bolt so the cylinder lugs could be damaged.

I'll make sure to clean and inspect everything before just slapping it back together. It would be pretty crappy and a waste of time to bolt the lift cylinder back in place only to have the lugs shear off when the hitch has weight on it. Books are on the way. I thought I'd ordered them a week or two ago, but I must have had the webpage set to purchase but never actually did. Oops! They're now on their way. From what I've found online, pull the seat (2 bolts), pull the stand pipe (2 bolts), pull the dipstick plate (6 bolts), disconnect the roller lever from the PTO/Draft control, then remove the top cover plate (13 bolts) and lift it up and backwards. That'll give me full access to what I need. It also looks like the removing the hydraulic pump is just a step or two after that, so it all seems pretty simple back there.

Anyone have thoughts on replacing the pressure relief valve on the pump? I've read horror stories of them sticking and then causing damage when you go to lift the 3pt hitch and the pressure valve doesn't open. (could that also be how the lift cylinder was ripped off the top inspection cover?)

 

[Garycw]

I could only guess how those bolts & lift cylinder got broken. My first thought was pulling something the wrong way or a rollover of some sort. I think you're going to end up with a good working tractor with everything you're doing

 

[shaeff]

I could only guess how those bolts & lift cylinder got broken. My first thought was pulling something the wrong way or a rollover of some sort. I think you're going to end up with a good working tractor with everything you're doing

Thanks Gary, yeah who really knows what happened. I may never know, but I'm alright with that as long as I can get this thing whipped into shape. I'd really like to have it ready before winter, but with limited time, being recently married, and having just built a new home, I'm a bit strapped for cash. Three years ago I'd be tearing this thing apart and rebuilding every mechanical aspect of it just because I like doing stuff like that. Now I'm just trying to make it functional and maintain it, then fix things as I see them arise. It's amazing how a few life changes will completely change the way I do things. I'd really like to pull the pump and give that a good once-over as well, new o-rings and whatnot, but I just don't have the time.

After this, I have to figure out why my powersteering isn't working. Turning the wheel is REALLY tight. I'm hoping that the front end just needs a lot of grease and work it in, new fluid and filter. :fingers crossed:

 

[Jerry/MT]

I'll make sure to clean and inspect everything before just slapping it back together. It would be pretty crappy and a waste of time to bolt the lift cylinder back in place only to have the lugs shear off when the hitch has weight on it. Books are on the way. I thought I'd ordered them a week or two ago, but I must have had the webpage set to purchase but never actually did. Oops! They're now on their way. From what I've found online, pull the seat (2 bolts), pull the stand pipe (2 bolts), pull the dipstick plate (6 bolts), disconnect the roller lever from the PTO/Draft control, then remove the top cover plate (13 bolts) and lift it up and backwards. That'll give me full access to what I need. It also looks like the removing the hydraulic pump is just a step or two after that, so it all seems pretty simple back there.

Anyone have thoughts on replacing the pressure relief valve on the pump? I've read horror stories of them sticking and then causing damage when you go to lift the 3pt hitch and the pressure valve doesn't open. (could that also be how the lift cylinder was ripped off the top inspection cover?)

Some of the pressure relief valves come apart so if yours does, you could open it and inspect it. I doubt if there are repair parts but there maybe. Maybe a good cleaning followed by a good inspection will suffice. Plan B would just be to replace it. They aren't generally too expensive. Personally, I've heard of them sticking open because of some crud getting into them but I haven't heard of them sticking shut.

By the way you'll have to disconnect the lift arms from the rockshaft in order to get the lift cover off. The lift arms attach the lower 3 pt arms to the rockshaft. Once you disconnect the innards, you can put the whole unit on a bench to work on it. It would be a good idea to clean the sump with the cover off.