Buying Advice Early '60's MF 35 Utility

[Kenneth S]

On the right had side opposite the pto cover is another cover that has the dipstick for the oil level in the transmission, Remove that cover, and move the levers for the 3 point, and look for movement. Also you do not need the side covers on to flush the hydraulics, just fill it with your cleaning mixture to where the bottom side cover bolts are, and run it. When you pull the side covers off you should be able to scoop out any sludge that's laying on the bottom that didn't drain before putting your cleaning mixture in.

 

[shaeff]

I forgot about Wal-Mart! Thanks!

Edit: Where do you guys buy most of your parts from? Like the shifter boot that I need: 190697M1 (thanks for the P/N Kenneth), I'm having trouble finding it on Steiner or Yesterday's Tractors. I found it on AGCO, but was referred to a local dealer, I'll check with them on Monday.

 

[shaeff]

On the right had side opposite the pto cover is another cover that has the dipstick for the oil level in the transmission, Remove that cover, and move the levers for the 3 point, and look for movement. Also you do not need the side covers on to flush the hydraulics, just fill it with your cleaning mixture to where the bottom side cover bolts are, and run it. When you pull the side covers off you should be able to scoop out any sludge that's laying on the bottom that didn't drain before putting your cleaning mixture in.

Hey Kenneth, I missed this post. I've already pulled the cover for the PTO lever. It's broken beyond repair. I've also reached in as far as I can and scooped out all the nasty sludge in the bottom, it's easily 3/4" of junk down there. I'll pull the other cover off on Saturday and see where that gets me as far as movement goes in the hydraulics.

In the meantime, here's a picture of the PN on the cover for my PTO lever, first pic. That part number does not match what AGCO has, which is: 181214M1. The back of my plate shows 181269M1

That being said, I found this replacement, but this one says "Ground PTO" in addition to neutral and engine PTO.
FERGUSON, Series, TO35, PTO, Sub-Component, GROUND SPEED SHIFT COVER, 181214M1 at Wengers Of Myerstown

Overall shape looks the same, assuming I use my lever and detent spring this should still work for my needs, yes?

 

[Kenneth S]

Give these guys a call, they may have it All States Ag Parts | Used, new and rebuilt tractor, combine and skid steer parts they part out old tractors.

 

[shaeff]

Give these guys a call, they may have it All States Ag Parts | Used, new and rebuilt tractor, combine and skid steer parts they part out old tractors.

Awesome, they're calling me back tomorrow and are pretty sure they've got what I need. Thanks!

My tune up parts should be here Wednesday, and I'm hoping that my spin-on oil filter adapter/filter setup will be here before the weekend, too, so I can warm it up, drop the engine oil and change that out with a new filter assembly.

 

[Kenneth S]

The oil filter on the z134 engine is a bypass filter system, it filters a little bit of the oil then dumps it back into the oil pan, while the important parts like the bearings gets un-filtered engine oil. What I would do after you warm it, and dump the oil that's in it is to leave the drain plug out, and dump a gallon, or two of diesel in to flush out any crud that still maybe sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. Then put your new filter, and oil in, then pull the coil wire off, and crank it over until you see the oil pressure start to come up (so it fills the new filter, and everything), then hook the coil wire back up, and run it. In my signature below the is a link to "My Continental Z134 oil system/filter modification", give it a look.

 

[shaeff]

The oil filter on the z134 engine is a bypass filter system, it filters a little bit of the oil then dumps it back into the oil pan, while the important parts like the bearings gets un-filtered engine oil. What I would do after you warm it, and dump the oil that's in it is to leave the drain plug out, and dump a gallon, or two of diesel in to flush out any crud that still maybe sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. Then put your new filter, and oil in, then pull the coil wire off, and crank it over until you see the oil pressure start to come up (so it fills the new filter, and everything), then hook the coil wire back up, and run it. In my signature below the is a link to "My Continental Z134 oil system/filter modification", give it a look.

I've looked over that link in your signature a few times. Do I need to pull the oil pan (or have the motor apart?) to do that? It looks like I do, but I'll wait for your confirmation. Also not a bad idea to flush the pan with diesel either, I'll do that. Still scratching my head on why they'd set up the oil system like that! Any time I do a full oil change I pull the coil wire (or EFI fuse on newer cars) and crank until I see the gauge move. That's something my father taught me when I started driving. Thanks for the tips!

Still trying to find that shuttle shift H-S-L boot. I see them, or something similar on eBay, but they're $30 after shipping! Not that it's not worth it to keep water out of my transmission, but the $12 shipping kills me! Is there anyplace that I haven't looked that has it? I checked Yesterday's Tractors, Steiner, Tractor Parts ASAP, and another place that I can't recall right now.

 

[Kenneth S]

You don't really need to redo the oil filter the way I did, as long as you change oil, and filter on a regular basis you shouldn't have a problem. I did what I did to mine as a experiment which I'm very happy with the results so far. On the H-S-L/shuttle shift boot I have the exact same problem you do so I wrapped a rag around it with some zip ties to keep dirt out, and keep water away from it. The $12.00 for shipping such a little part that doesn't hardly weigh anything kills me also.

BTW: On efi cars "usually" holding the gas pedal all the way down to the floor before, and while cranking should keep it from starting.

 

[shaeff]

You don't really need to redo the oil filter the way I did, as long as you change oil, and filter on a regular basis you shouldn't have a problem. I did what I did to mine as a experiment which I'm very happy with the results so far. On the H-S-L/shuttle shift boot I have the exact same problem you do so I wrapped a rag around it with some zip ties to keep dirt out, and keep water away from it. The $12.00 for shipping such a little part that doesn't hardly weigh anything kills me also.

BTW: On efi cars "usually" holding the gas pedal all the way down to the floor before, and while cranking should keep it from starting.

I do like the system that you came up with, I think it should be that way from the factory. The gearhead in me cringes at the thought of unfiltered oil getting to the bearings and cam. Yikes! I'll look into it eventually, but for now I'll just keep on top of oil changes and whatnot.

I came across this on eBay for the shuttle shift boot, but I'm not sure that it'll actually work:MF shift boot

It doesn't look like it has enough "throw" for the shuttle lever.

I'm going to stop at my local tractor dealer and see if they can get one for a halfway decent price.

Also I didn't know that about flooring the accelerator on an EFI car. Maybe I'll look up if it works on mine rather than pulling the fuse.

 

[Kenneth S]

Looks like that one may work, but the 190697M1 boot that your tractor, and mine calls for looks different than that one. Plus the 190697M1 boot price without any shipping is in the $40.00 range (ouch).