Workmaster 55 problem. Intermittent engine dying

[MrWhippy]

No rhyme or reason. Tractor starts fine, runs for a while and then just shuts off. Sometimes it restarts quickly, sometimes it has to set for a while and restarts. The fuel line is completely clear. The fuel filter has been changed. The injector lines have no air. Anyone seen this? Possible causes?

 

[MrWhippy]

So, talking with some folks, the consensus is either A) Dodgy fuel shutoff solenoid on the pump or B) broken wire/broken key switch.

Sounds about right.

 

[MrWhippy]

Thanks for the help.

 

[Harry in Ky]

So which was/is it?

 

[Walkin Horse]

I'm very interested in a follow up on your problem. A friend of mines boomer did the same. Turned out it was plastic shavings in the tank blocking the fuel line. Good luck.

 

[MrWhippy]

Fuel runs freely at the tank, at the filter, after the filter and at the pump. It happened again last night. It's not like running out of fuel, it's more like shutting off the engine. I was there with a voltmeter when it happened a few times last night: 12 V at the fuel shut off solenoid. That makes me suspect a dodgy fuel shut off solenoid, but I won't know for a while. A new one arrives Monday and since it's an intermittent problem, it'll be (hopefully) several weeks before I know for sure.

This happens once a week or less, but when there's an event, it starts up again immediately but shortly thereafter (3-5 minutes) dies again. It definitely feels like an electrical issue, not fuel supply issue.

 

[MrWhippy]

Put in the new solenoid and haven't had a repeat problem since. Hayed the fields over Memorial weekend so there were lots of opportunity. I haven't tested the old unit yet, but so far, it appears to be a fix.

 

[Jerry/MT]

If it shuts down as if you turned off the key, it is most likely an electrical issue with the solenoid shut off, the key switch or the wiring( loose terminal?) Generally speaking , fuel starvations takes a few seconds and it starts with a miss and then a hesitation and then the engine sputters to a halt.

I'd check out the electrical system from the key switch to the solenoid before I replaced anything.

 

[MrWhippy]

Update: Symptoms are back. This time, they progressed to the tractor not starting. Very irritating. Had the service guys out. After working on it for over an hour, it turns out the electronic fuel module shows excessive wear. 500 hours. I'm not happy about this. Do I need to replace this every 500 hours? Seems like that should NOT be a wear item.

 

[wolfhound36]

So, where is the fuel shut-off switch located? Ran a jumper wire from Battery pos + to shut-off and problem solved, but would like to make real repair.

 

[w4sm]

I've recently had this problem as well. Tractor either won't start or quits suddenly. Problem is definitely electrical. Jumping 12v to the fuel shutoff solenoid will get you going again but isn't the real fix, and you'll need to yank this connection to kill the tractor. I bought a new fuel module (only $9) and will give that a try, if I can figure out where it goes! If you've got the operating manual you can trace the electrical connections. There's a relay that controls the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injector pump and the relay is controlled by the fuel module. Pulling the instrument panel gives you access to the relays (haven't spotted the fuel module yet). On the Workmaster 55 the wire to the fuel solenoid is pink. You'll see this wire going into the center relay. Relays can be pulled off of their mounting post easily for better access. The control wire on the relay that comes from the fuel module is solid orange. Grounding this orange wire will activate the fuel solenoid if the power is on but the switch will kill the tractor as it should. This bypasses all the safety cutoffs like the seat switch, though. I'm going to add a "cheater switch" that will ground the orange relay wire. I'll leave this switch open normally for all of the safety cutoffs, but if the tractor quits, I'll close this switch to bypass the fuel module and get running again quickly.

 

[w4sm]

It took me the better part of an hour to find the fuel module. It's well hidden. On the "passenger side" of the engine compartment firewall are two modules on a bracket, a flasher module and a buzzer module. The fuel control module is behind the buzzer module and completely invisible. Don't try to take it off by loosening the buzzer module; you'll lose the nut and washer on the back side (been there!). Remove the bracket holding all three modules (two 13mm bolts), and it will then be easy to remove the fuel control module. You'll need a small flat head screwdriver to release the tabs holding the module into its connector. I just replaced mine and also added a cheater switch which hopefully I won't need. Good luck.

 

[Utopia Texas]

Which side is the "passenger side" of the engine. Unlike my Ford F-150 where the passenger sits on the right side, my NH T4.75 has the passenger seat to the left side of the drivers seat. So which side might you be referring to for this conversation ???

 

[w4sm]

Ah yes... US v. England.
As you sit on the seat it's the right side of the firewall. Standing in front and looking back at the engine compartment it's the left side. But you can't miss them. Both are black. Buzzer module has lots of small holes in it for sound to escape.

 

[w4sm]

Ah yes... US v. England.
As you sit on the seat it's the right side of the firewall. Standing in front and looking back at the engine compartment it's the left side. But you can't miss them. Both are black. Buzzer module has lots of small holes in it for sound to escape.

Just one more point. In looking at the old fuel control module, the connector contacts are just thin lands on a circuit board that have been "tinned" with solder. It appears that there has been wear and corrosion at the points of contact, probably due to vibration. Cleaning these up and applying a thin layer of solder over the wear spots might solve the problem at least for a while. Ideally, these contact points should be made of harder metal. Adding an anti-corrosion coating to the lands before connecting the plug might help as well.

 

[jtuck01]

How amazing a post can keep someone from pulling their hair completely out. It never failed, would go out to do something on the tractor and it wouldn't start. Then the local NH dealer would go out there, and it would start just fine. The dealer then started to try to tell me how to start my own tractor... Anyways, would any of you happen to know the part # I am looking for, and the best place to get it? Do I need to go through the local NH dealer? Thanks in advance!

 

[hog71]

Has anyone found a way to fix the problem of new holland workmaster 55 running fine then just shuts down?

 

[Harry in Ky]

I have a solution if you're willing to go around the operator aggravation module.

 

[hog71]

I am well ready for a solution to get around the operator aggravation module. I have the module out of the tractor and am in price shock of the part.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Put the module back in place. Then pull the dash out. If you look down in there you will see some relays clipped to the structure. There is one that controls the fuel shut off on the pump. You need to find it (I think it's on the left side) next. Unclip them one at a time, turn turn them around and look for one with a pink wire The pink wire that powers the injection pump comes from this relay. It's supplied from the key switch and when it's closed the pump is powered. The relay coil circuit is grounded by the module. What I have done is make a jumper wire, install it between the wire from the key switch and the pink wire to the pump, and leave the relay out. This leaves the module intact to do whatever else it does, but powers the pump directly from the key switch so the module has no effect on it.