Wife wants the washer and dryer raised up higher

[the old grind]

We've built boxes as proposed for basements that may flood and to ease W/D access. Second the 3/4" ply top and 10"-12" center spacing as suits o'all dimension. Wood and paint, that's it. (Also built/carpeted a few for console TVs years ago to ease watching from a recliner. )

'Box' may need some sound deadening (a few internal braces?) but don't expect rubber cushions to work much better than carpet would as far as stabilizing (during spin cycle, etc). Given room to jiggle a machine will do so (much more with top loaders) and try to 'walk' no matter how level or how confident that all loads will balance during spin.

Things might run more 'steadily' if W & D are mounted on the same platform. (Use a Forster bit to pocket their feet 1/8" into the top.) Weight of box and both appliances should help them stay put, with 'dampers' beneath the whole shebang. (BTDT, .. easy peasy) tog

btw: Stall mat on concrete may show dampness (hydrostatic pressure) from below grade. On a wood floor I'd expect some 'rumble' even with it. (A thinner mat'l may reduce 'rock-n-roll' vs something that's a bit 'springy'.)

 

[EarPlug]

Built mine out of wood. No problem with vibrations.

 

[Coyote machine]

Some washers will walk right off a home made base from vibration. Best setup is on a bare concrete floor. If you were to build in a ledge to keep the washer from walking, and attach the base to the wall behind the washer, then you might get it done without issues.

 

[oldnslo]

Is the drain height for the washer an issue with front loaders? I know on my top load there was some dimension that was a minimum height for the drain vs the washer.

 

[jfh28]

essentially you are building a raised floor so what you want to do is fine.......only hesitation I have with the rubber mat idea is if the weight of the w/d is not even on each of the legs you could get an indent in the rubber from one of the feet and throw it out of balance.......might want to put a raised lip around the perimeter to keep the w/d from walking off the platform......if you do that then just a piece of vinyl flooring would work on top of the platform........also 2x6 and ply will only raise it about 6"......which is not much since I'm guessing your wife wants to minimize the bending over.......so you might want to consider 2x10 or even 2x12 and get them up.....i think that would be closer to the height of the bases you can buy from w/d manufacturer...........Jack

 

[teejk]

Note to self... stay with top load design when it's time to replace existing top load washer and dryer.

. We got introduced to front loaders when living in Europe and we have never looked back. Was used to a 15 minute wash cycle and then a 40 min+ drying time (the energy sucking part). Front loaders reversed that...spins as much water out of the wash load as it could so dry time was greatly reduced. High efficiency top loaders are relatively new to the market (supposed to mimic the water removal action of the front loaders) but I think the dryers are still front loads? Anyway, no big deal to build a simple raised platform with 2x4's and plywood (rock bands play music on them all the time). Might need to secure the machines but I think the holes on the bases are already plentiful.

 

[Looking4new]

I think I would frame in a box with 2x12 complete with centered rebar across both sides and then fill it with concrete to the 11" mark. There is your 'lip' so the washer doesn't walk off the pedestal during the spin cycle. After the cement is cured paint it what ever colour suits your fancy.

 

[PILOON]

I like your usage of that 'under space', good thinking as that stuff needs to be stored somewhere.

Built mine out of wood. No problem with vibrations.

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[Coyote machine]

There may be a reason the manufacturer does not provide or sell bases for your washer/dryer. Vibration is the biggest problem with top load washers on anything other than a solid level concrete floor. It might not be as much of an issue with front loaders since the drum spins on a horizontal axis instead of a vertical one. I don't know for certain, BUT I do know you don't ever want a washer taking a walk and flooding your basement....
There should not be any problem with the drain height so long as you follow the original specs for minimum height.

And Ford850, I'm wondering if you meant to say to stay with top load or move to front load washer/dryer. I know I was blown away by how little water a front loader took to clean clothes by comparison to the old style top loader. I mean it was amazing. I thought the thing was broken because the water stopped so soon after it started to fill the washer. I strongly urge you to reconsider. JMHO.

 

[teg]

Built this when we got our front loader a dozen years ago... if you have room, extend it out to hold the laundry basket. The un-painted 2x4 held an extension platform when I had to pull the washer out do some plumbing work. I have another one that I just built at my other place and instead of an extended shelf, I'm going to build it to fold out (or up) just to hold the laundry basket.

This is over built with 4x4 and 2x6 (what I had around) 19" off the ground and rock solid. The new one (might get photos this wk/ed) is 2x6 legs and 2x4 for everything else. It "absorbs" the vibration of the washer... Plan to stiffen it up.

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