Wife wants the washer and dryer raised up higher

teejk · Dec 8, 2015

Coyote machine said:
There may be a reason the manufacturer does not provide or sell bases for your washer/dryer. Vibration is the biggest problem with top load washers on anything other than a solid level concrete floor. It might not be as much of an issue with front loaders since the drum spins on a horizontal axis instead of a vertical one. I don't know for certain, BUT I do know you don't ever want a washer taking a walk and flooding your basement....
There should not be any problem with the drain height so long as you follow the original specs for minimum height.

And Ford850, I'm wondering if you meant to say to stay with top load or move to front load washer/dryer. I know I was blown away by how little water a front loader took to clean clothes by comparison to the old style top loader. I mean it was amazing. I thought the thing was broken because the water stopped so soon after it started to fill the washer. I strongly urge you to reconsider. JMHO.

Front loaders can be a little harder on clothes (they beat the crap out them but they do come out clean!). In a basement setting I can't say but most plumbing installs elsewhere now incorporate a "box" that includes the cold/hot connections (with a shut-off) and the drain. Mounted about 4' from the floor so raising the machines should only give slack on the hoses (even the drain hose is now one of those snake things I think).

sseelhoff · Dec 8, 2015

kcflhrc said:
So we have these front loading washer and dryer. You cant add a base to them because the base is built in, GE brand but she still wants them higher. I was thinking a 2x6 frame laid on edge with a 3/4 " plywood top and of course cross braces in between for support. Thoughts?

MossRoad · Dec 8, 2015

If I was going to build up a base to put a washer and dryer on, I'd put a washing machine pan w/drain on it and put the washer in it. That way if there ever was a leak, it wouldn't soak the base.

https://www.google.com/search?q=was...3M3JAhUnoYMKHV95D8wQ_AUICCgC&biw=1455&bih=705

Ford850 · Dec 9, 2015

Coyote machine said:
And Ford850, I'm wondering if you meant to say to stay with top load or move to front load washer/dryer. I know I was blown away by how little water a front loader took to clean clothes by comparison to the old style top loader. I mean it was amazing. I thought the thing was broken because the water stopped so soon after it started to fill the washer. I strongly urge you to reconsider. JMHO.

It was just my attempt at humor.

When we replaced our old washer about 12 years ago, we intended to get a front load washer. When shopping (after the sticker shock wore off) we kept hearing the same "advantages" for top load washers... how they save you so much due to the small amount of water used and how they spin clothes so "dry". We couldn't decide on one since they all have different bells and whistles that we really didn't want. We finally met a salesman who was honest and asked us several questions up front:
1) Do you have well water? (yes)
2) Do you have a water softener? (yes)
2) Do you wash in hot, warm or cold water? (cold)
3) Do you rinse in hot warm or cold water? (cold)
4) What % of your clothes do you line dry? (20-30%)
He was quick to point out we would be wasting our money on a top load model, and instead showed us an extra large capacity top load, which has been a great washer.

I understand top load models are great for some people, but not for me (yet).
And I was more satisfied with my top load when I saw the front load reviews and the complaints about:
- having to use special detergent
- and having to run cycles to clean the washer
- and having to leave the door swinging open to prevent mold and mildew between loads
- and building or buying a base so you can access the front load easier. (Some of the bases sell for more than what I paid for my HD top load washer)

But when my current washer croaks, I'll no doubt check out the front load style again.

Ford850 · Dec 9, 2015

So, to get this back on track after I derailed it above...
Several of you talk about the washers walking and vibrating. Do the front loads have an issue with that? I know top loads used to because of the horizontal drum rotation. But the newer models seem to have resolved that with load balancers and shock absorbing feet. My current washer doesn't budge, even when loaded improperly and shaking like an earthquake. If the washers have better feet on them these days, do you really need to be that concerned about it walking off the base?

dmccarty · Dec 9, 2015

oldnslo said:
Is the drain height for the washer an issue with front loaders? I know on my top load there was some dimension that was a minimum height for the drain vs the washer.

This has not been an issue with the two front loaders we have owned.

Later,
Dan

NorTracNY · Dec 9, 2015

Vibration/ walking has never been an issue with the two front loaders we've owned. I remember the top loader we had when I was a kid. That thing would walk all over.

the old grind · Dec 9, 2015

oldnslo said:
Is the drain height for the washer an issue with front loaders? I know on my top load there was some dimension that was a minimum height for the drain vs the washer.

The drain outlet (actually the 'weir', or high point) has to be above the max fill level on most any washer to prevent siphoning thru' a flow path that remains 'open' whether the pump is operating or not. (no valves, etc)

btw, pans are often drained, but usually cannot be tied into the stand-pipe (above its trap .. & risking a gusher if done so). We typically route to a floor drain or sump, as with a HVAC condensate drain or WH T&P-valve outlet. tog

zzvyb6 · Dec 9, 2015

Buy an indoor tractor with a wide loader. Then you can have a front loading front loader that is adjustble to any height, both for you and for the Missus. Since you need e-soap for these machines, (so the washer can measure the discharge water for proper rinsing), you probably should have the e-hydro version of the indoor tractor, too. Just makes sense...