220V electricity and 110V

   / 220V electricity and 110V #31  
I don't know if this is do-able or not, but I want to take 110V hydro off one of the 220V legs of the power that is going to my well pump. The pump is 220V and draws 5amps. There are 27.5 amps available in the 220 circuit. The way I understand it is that the 27.5-5 amps leaves 22.5amps I want to use 1 leg of the 220 circuit so that would be 11.25 amps -2% would be 11.025 rounded down to 11 amps of 110V juice. This juice would be for my water softener and a led light over top of the whole issue. Is this even do-able? I don't want to toast my house.

Are you installing a water softener and light or are these existing?
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V #32  
Heck this is really simple. You just need to connect to one of the hot wires (black or red) one connection to white (neutral) and one green (ground) and you have 110V power. I think I would run this to another panel and put in the appropriate sized breaker to protect the components in the water softener, 27.5 amp ? breaker is to much for your water softener (Note: I have never seen a 27.5 amp breaker as all I have ever seen are in multiples of 5) . Your wire size should be sized to accommodate the total amperage of the water softener and light per NEC wire sizing tables and the right sized breaker (wire size has to be larger capacity than the breaker in all the circuit from the pump disconnect to your new box and from there to the water softener)
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V #33  
As a water well professional I see this all the time. Most of these setups do not use a neutral. They instead come off one leg of the pressure switch and tie the neutral in with the ground. Not legal but it works. If you have a dedicated neutral you're good to go.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I would like to see how the generator , transfer switch, well pump, pressure switch and water softener are physically located and how they are to be located .
We so not soften all our water as some people do. Outside water taps, the line to shed and the kitchen sink drinking water tap are hard water.
The genny is in its' own metal shed 25' north of the house. The transfer switch is located over top of the water softener in the full basement. All the water is softened. Toilet water and all. The reason being that we are in a high manganese/iron area and the water turns everything brown. the gardens get watered with water from a hand dug well that has its' own 110 volt motor that we are keeping out of the emergency loop. If the worst happens and the gardens need water and the hydro is out, then we just take the lid off the well and chuck a bucket down to get water.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Heck this is really simple. You just need to connect to one of the hot wires (black or red) one connection to white (neutral) and one green (ground) and you have 110V power. I think I would run this to another panel and put in the appropriate sized breaker to protect the components in the water softener, 27.5 amp ? breaker is to much for your water softener (Note: I have never seen a 27.5 amp breaker as all I have ever seen are in multiples of 5) . Your wire size should be sized to accommodate the total amperage of the water softener and light per NEC wire sizing tables and the right sized breaker (wire size has to be larger capacity than the breaker in all the circuit from the pump disconnect to your new box and from there to the water softener)
The 4 wire (red, black, green and ground) Is going through a RELIANCE indoor/outdoor power inlet box 30amp@125/250V L14-30. From that box it runs through AWG 8 cable (4 wire) to the transfer switch, through the transfer switch and on to the fuse box via 2 conductor NMD 90. After the fuse box (I'm using regular 15amp fuses, NOT sloblows/fusetrons) via BX 14/2 wire to the pressure switch and everything else. The smallest the wire will be is 14/2, which is what the rest of the house is wired with.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I guess the next questions are how often do you have outages and how long do they last?
We can pretty much expect the hydro to go out every time the wind blows. Seriously it is a weekly occurrence. Ontario Hydro/Hydro One in this area is THE most unreliable, over priced utility we have.

An example for you; I came home in a rain storm, the hydro was on. The rain stopped, the sun came out and the hydro went off. The wires got hit with a ray of sunshine. Our outages last anywhere from 1-14 hours.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V #39  
I find it mildly amusing that there is a discussion of fuses. I suppose that may be a regional thing. It has been a long time since I saw a fuse box. Personally I think I would rather have a breaker box where if it pops, you just flip the breaker off and back on again. Oops, that comment may be as annoying as the diesel vs gasoline vs propane vs PTO vs Chinese vs North American vs Taiwan vs Japanese generators.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V
  • Thread Starter
#40  
I find it mildly amusing that there is a discussion of fuses. I suppose that may be a regional thing. It has been a long time since I saw a fuse box. Personally I think I would rather have a breaker box where if it pops, you just flip the breaker off and back on again. Oops, that comment may be as annoying as the diesel vs gasoline vs propane vs PTO vs Chinese vs North American vs Taiwan vs Japanese generators.
I would rather have fuses in this application. The rest of the house is stab lock breakers. My shed is fuses as well.
 

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