10 Hours later . . . an update

   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #11  
just don't curse me as you are cutting it.......lol....it's a real pita!

I've only got a 5' blade and I can tell you that in the wet heavy snow I have trouble pushing deep amounts........will crab all over the place and stall out.....it's like trying to plow wet concrete........normal weight snow I can do 12" easy.....wet snow 6" max.......I have chains on my back wheels but can't put chains on the front because of clearance problems........a 6' blade is going to make that tougher as you will be pushing more snow and weight........if you have the clearance I would definitely suggest looking into chains........Jack
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Well, I guess that begs another question. The guy I got the PT from threw in the bigger blade (maybe it's 5', I better measure it . . .) with 3 pin connection because he had it laying around for a future project. He said "if you can move it, you can have it." I have the shorter (48" I'm pretty sure) blade already, but of course I naturally tended towards bigger is better, especially when free, which prompted my plan to weld on a QA plate. So maybe it's not even worth doing anything with the bigger blade if I will have a hard time pushing it? I have a hard time walking past it without thinking I should do something with it though. I think it's a contagious sickness I got from reading this forum . . . maybe it will make a nice kid's slide.

jfh, what cutting would I curse you over? Would I have to cut the old 3 pin mounts off, or do I just weld the plate straight to them?

What chains for the tires would you suggest?
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #13  
If you take a couple of 2 x 6,8,10, etc and clamp them to both sides of a rubber mat to make a wood, rubber, wood sandwich, you can use a saw to cut the mat pretty well. It keeps the rubber from bouncing around with the blade. Use a jigsaw, sawsall, circular saw, etc... Hope that helps someone.
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #14  
I'm just curious, whats the advantage of being able to tilt the snow blade back past 90 degrees? I can understand how tilting it forward can be to one's advantage.
Unless I'm mistaken the top of the QA plate tilts out about 23 degrees from vertical at the top. It doesn't have to be precise but it must be tilted, or you limit how far you can curl the attachment up.
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #15  
Dan,

I saw the bigger blade at the auction. It is a Power-Trac blade, but I think it is for one of the bigger diesel Power-Tracs. I bet you could sell in on here.
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #16  
I'm just curious, whats the advantage of being able to tilt the snow blade back past 90 degrees? I can understand how tilting it forward can be to one's advantage.

Sometimes its helpful when pushing snow up and over the top of a pile that you can't climb up or drive through.
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #17  
jfh, what cutting would I curse you over?

the cursing will start once you begin cutting the horse mat.....haha.......I have tried everything......circular saw blades gum up to quickly......sawzall very difficult to control and also bind up.......jig saw works ok but takes freaking forever.......I've used the clamping method but once the rubber strip is started it takes on a mind of it's own......of course this make all be due to lack of operator skill.......lol.......the chains will have more to do with the clearances that you have for the wheels.....I think the low boys have more problem with inside of tire to tractor body whereas the tall boys have the problem with top of tire to underside of steel fender........Jack
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #18  
I'm just curious, whats the advantage of being able to tilt the snow blade back past 90 degrees? I can understand how tilting it forward can be to one's advantage.

it's also helpful when you have the blade turned fully to one side or the other.......when you do this one side of the blade will lift up off the ground while the other side is touching the ground........I need to tweak the tilt to get the bottom of the blade to be level with the ground......Jack
 
   / 10 Hours later . . . an update #19  
the cursing will start once you begin cutting the horse mat.....haha.......I have tried everything......circular saw blades gum up to quickly......sawzall very difficult to control and also bind up.......jig saw works ok but takes freaking forever.......I've used the clamping method but once the rubber strip is started it takes on a mind of it's own......of course this make all be due to lack of operator skill.......lol.......the chains will have more to do with the clearances that you have for the wheels.....I think the low boys have more problem with inside of tire to tractor body whereas the tall boys have the problem with top of tire to underside of steel fender........Jack

If you want to cut rubber, use a 7 in blade with the teeth ground off and then sharpen the blade and then wet the rubber.

Wet rubber cuts better when wet.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

LOOK! (A50657)
LOOK! (A50657)
72In FEL HD Round Back Bucket (A51039)
72In FEL HD Round...
80in HD Tooth Bucket with Side Cutters ONE PER LOT (A51039)
80in HD Tooth...
2018 John Deere 1445 72in Front Mower (A48082)
2018 John Deere...
2023 PETERBILT 579 TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A51222)
2023 PETERBILT 579...
4- 6 DRILL COLLARS (A50854)
4- 6 DRILL COLLARS...
 
Top