I'm building a wood shed....I need some help

[EddieWalker]

Most deck failures are from the deck coming away from the house, or building it's attached to. The ledger board pulls away and the deck collapses.

In my experience, decks are often built by people with no understanding of how framing works and they rely on nails to hold the beams to the sides of the posts. I've also tore down quite a few decks that didn't have beams at all, just joists spanning massive distances well past their recommended span.

 

[FTG-05]

Good point. Just because somebody got away with it before doesn't mean it's the best way to build something. You also don't know how much money or effort went into keep it standing over the years.

As a contractor, I have to build everything to a level that I wont have to deal with complaints, call backs or legal action. There are dozens of ways that I could save some money and either get it done faster, use smaller lumber or less material. Most would never know for years. I might even get away with it over time and the client might even remain happy with what I built. I know it happens, I've seen too many poorly built barns and house posted on here with claims it was done right or the builder was the best one out there. But I also know that there are so many contractors out there who are competing for jobs that going cheaper isn't the answer. If I build it, it is going to be better then code and when the size of the lumber needed is questionable, I'm going to go up to the next size. Normally I have a 4 to 6 month waiting list for clients waiting on my to start their projects. Right now I'm booked up into June 2016. I've found that in every case, clients are more then willing to pay for better materials to make it stronger.

Request for your professional comments, suggestions, criticisms etc. for my wood shed as shown in post #52 above. If it's really, really bad and you don't think my fragile ego will be able to handle it, feel free to IM me.

Thanks,

ETA: And assuming the OP doesn't mind the hijack.

 

[LD1]

Request for your professional comments, suggestions, criticisms etc. for my wood shed as shown in post #52 above. If it's really, really bad and you don't think my fragile ego will be able to handle it, feel free to IM me.

Thanks,

ETA: And assuming the OP doesn't mind the hijack.

Im not eddie, but will offer my opinion.

From what you have said, and what I can see, I dont see anything wrong.

2x6 @ 24" centers spanning the 9' (with 1' overhang) is plenty sufficient for any snow load you will see in TN.
Double 2x8 header sitting on top of posts, same thing, allthough I cannot see where the seams are (if any). If you used full length 22' thats great.
Proper metal fastners and hurricane ties provided you used the nails called for, and not things like drywall screws or trim nails like so many people make the mistake of doing.

Also cannot see how you attached to the existing building, so no comment there.

Only thing I would add would be to put a knee brace at least on the two corner posts and up to the header. Without siding or sheathing and smaller 4x4 posts, there isnt alot of lateral stiffness there.

 

[LD1]

something like this

 

[FTG-05]

Im not eddie, but will offer my opinion.

From what you have said, and what I can see, I dont see anything wrong.

2x6 @ 24" centers spanning the 9' (with 1' overhang) is plenty sufficient for any snow load you will see in TN.
Double 2x8 header sitting on top of posts, same thing, allthough I cannot see where the seams are (if any). If you used full length 22' thats great.
Proper metal fastners and hurricane ties provided you used the nails called for, and not things like drywall screws or trim nails like so many people make the mistake of doing.

Also cannot see how you attached to the existing building, so no comment there.

Only thing I would add would be to put a knee brace at least on the two corner posts and up to the header. Without siding or sheathing and smaller 4x4 posts, there isn't a lot of lateral stiffness there.

The guy at the roofing place said that 2'x centers were fine for S TN.

The doubled 2x8's are the length between each post, in the last pic, you should be able to see the galvanized post cap on top of each post.

No nails were used at all. For the header, 2 1/2" structural screws were used. For the joist hangers, I used the roofing screws since I bought extras.

I wanted to avoid the knee brace since the headers are about 7' and I'm 6'4". For lateral bracing, I have 2x4x10' going from the corner of each end of the pole barn to the header bar. Look at the pic you posted, you can see the left one, but the right one is harder to see.

For the joists ends attached to the pole barn, I doubled - vertically - another 2x6 under the existing one, then attached a 2x4 horizontally for the joists ends to sit on. I then simply toe-nailed the joist to the existing 2x6 "header". The doubled header 2x6 were vertically reinforced with treated 2x4 to prevent sagging. I used 3" structural screws for the toe-nailing. As I use up the wood on that side of the pole barn, I plan to come back with 2-3 4" structural screws coming in from the header into each joist. Not sure it's necessary, but I plan to do it anyway.

 

[LD1]

Hard to visualize without pics. But it sounds like to attach to the barn you toe-nailed with screws and are contemplating another 2-3 in from the backside. Be careful, too many nails/screws can be just as bad as not enough. You will splinter out the end of the board and leave little holding power.

When using a ledge for the joist/rafter to sit on as you have done, I simply screw in from the back side if possible. The 2x4 handles the vertical load and the screws keep things from separating.

I see the 2x4 for lateral bracing now, running on an angle. That was going to be my next suggestion if knee braces were a no-go.

Looks like a solid build, but notice the existing building also lacks knee braces. Probably no big deal with the 6x6's. But I like to see something for lateral support if sheathing or siding is not used.

 

[General Lee]

I don't mind the high Jack. Haven't had any time to work on my shed. Gonna try and get something done on it this weekend.

 

[EddieWalker]

Last Sept., I built my woodshed on the side of my already existing pole barn. Specs are roughly 10'x22' wide with the posts 9' from the pole barn.

I used 2x8's doubled as my header and 2x6' on 24" centers for my joists. I centered the 2x8s on top of the posts. I did not notch the 2x6's, just set them on top, then used those galvanized joist hangers to keep them in place. My 4x4 posts were roughly 7'-8' apart, depending on what side I lined them up to the existing 6x6's of my pole barn.

Pics:

Sorry, I didn't realize you where asking me about this. From what I can see in your pictures, you a pretty good job. I don't know how you attached your ledger board to the existing barn, but really like that you have your rafters resting on top of it. That's a really good way to do it. Ideally you would want your ledger board attached with bolts. Lags will work, but depending on the size and style that you use, there is a pattern and spacing that is recommended by the manufacturer. In some places there is also a code on this. Biggest mistake is running them down the center of the ledger board, but in your case, it looks like you have solid wood behind it, which adds a lot to your strength.

Your rafters are sized and spaced correctly. Same with your beam. Nicely done putting all the weight on the top of your posts. How did you anchor your beams to the posts? I like those extra heavy metal T brackets myself, but there are some special brackets that wrap around the top of the posts to hold the beams in place too. I can't tell by the pictures what you used.

There are four directions of force on your posts. In and away from the building. And side to side of your building. In your case, the posts are held in place from going in towards, or away from your building by the roof. The roof will help some holding your posts from wanting to move side to side by it's sheer strength, but that's also where roofs fail. You are using the fasteners through the metal to stop it from moving side to side. Ideally you would want a solid wall there to hold a wall in position. Without the sheer strength of the wall, you need to provide another source of strength to hold the wall in place. Diagonal bracing is the most common way of doing this. In most cases, going down 2 feet and over 2 feet is plenty. Creating that triangle locks the wall into place. For more strength, adding gussets over the diagonal bracing works, or building a sort of top wall across the top two feet of the wall for extreme weather is needed.

4x4 posts are not what they used to be. They are plenty strong for supporting the weight, but they are horrible at remaining straight over time. Even 4x6s will bend on you more often then ever before. I only use 6x6's for post now, and even then, I have to look real close at every one I buy to make sure I'm getting a straight one. You might be fine, but in my experience, I wouldn't be shocked if half of them started to bow on you in a year or so.

 

[FTG-05]

something like this

Just for you LD!!!

Now, you know the downside here is that the first time I hit my head on one of those things, I'll be cursing your name!!! So if your ears start burning, now you know why!


Actually, come to think about it, every time I hit my head, I'll be cursing your name!!!

 

[LD1]

Looks good, but gotta curse eddie too. He suggested the same thing.

All though I dont think he seen the diagonal on the underside that kinda does the same thing.

Like eddie said, post can move two ways. To and from building (all it north and south), and along the length of the building (call that E-W).

With The roof structure, you have alot of lumber tying the tops of the posts to the existing building restraining that N-S movement.

But not much restraining E-W movement other than the rigidity of the 4x4's. That diagonal brace you have along the "ceiling" going from corner of building to second post + roof does provide alot of support. If you hit your head alot, knock the knee brace off and add another board from the 2nd post of the building to the corner of the lean-to. Making an X on each side. Dont want to be blamed for goose-eggs on the noggin :laughing: