Good morning!!!!

[8n Bruce]

Hi Don From Texas Try ( pressure washer pressure switch) It's about 23F cloudy & we got a dusting overnight. Have a good day guys !!

 

[txdon]

Question, do you use the chemical injection part of the washer? It appears the white box is a part of that. If you were to take the soap injector components off, then your hose would screw into the unloader. The unloader is what is calling for pressure or shutoff.

You could screw a cap onto the threads and just remove the soap injector...if your soaking doesn't fix the issue. Otherwise, you'll need to research for a replacement soap injector.

Is this your pump?

View attachment 454868

Found it by model search - China firm selling the pump. Notice it lacks the soap injector, probably made by another China firm.

Thats it. I do use the soap injector every time. This is my car wash pressure washer. I'll see how the soaking goes.

8nbruce, This is an automatic on off switch for an electric pressure washer which is triggered by change of pressure by means of a tiny plunger (near the soap injector) moving back and forth activating an electrical switch. The tiny plunger did stick occasionally however now I need a pliers to pull it out - it should move freely. They probably don't make them any more for that reason. I could just cap it and let pressure washer run. How long before it would burn up with no flow?

 

[Depmandog]

Any engineers or cooling experts out there? I need some engineering help. I need to figure out how much of a glycol circulating cooling system I need to freeze a block of aluminum 2" x 12" x 12" to 14F by circulating the glycol in cooling channels in the block. Outside temp should not exceed 80F. Should I use Fourier's Law? I can insulate the bottom and the sides with styrofoam. My initial calculations came up to around 154,000 btu/hr. Can that be right? This is for a small project I have at work that I would like to implement in the shop. It would be great if I could sabotage an old freezer compressor, add a heat exchanger and a glycol tank and pump.

I can take a stab at this Kyle.

Use this formula: Q = mcDT [Heat transferred = (mass) X (specific heat) X (temperature change)].

The specific heat for aluminum is 0.92 kJ / kg C

Measure the mass in kilograms, use Celsius for the temp, and the result will be in kJ

Use an online calculator to convert from joules (kJ) to btu

Good luck

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I can take a stab at this Kyle.

Use this formula: Q = mcDT [Heat transferred = (mass) X (specific heat) X (temperature change)].

The specific heat for aluminum is 0.92 kJ / kg C

Measure the mass in kilograms, use Celsius for the temp, and the result will be in kJ

Use an online calculator to convert from joules (kJ) to btu

Good luck

Thanks, I will check it out.

 

[KevT]

As Eric suggested, and assuming the foot switch is nothing more than a variable resistor, wire it in series with the brake coils. It's acting to limit current flow, so put an ohm meter across the leads coming out of it and make sure that resistance drops as the pedal is depressed. Ideally resistance would be infinite with the pedal all the way up. Also make sure it's rated for the current being drawn. If the foot pedal is rated in Watts, that 6 amps will put out almost 90 W @ 12.5 volts. That's a LOT of heat.

Please don't use ScotchLocs! They physically damage the wires, which later fatigue and break inside the Loc, so they're not making contact but look like they are. For a while I switched to PosiLocks and PosiTaps, but really the best way is to strip back 3/8" of wire, tin it with a soldering iron and rosin core solder, then use a single strand of copper from a multi strand wire to wrap the two conductors together tightly. Then solder them together, and finish up with a coat or three of liquid insulation for a waterproof joint. Or better yet, route all wires to end at terminal blocks and use the correct crimp on eyelets.

Don't be one of those guys who's work I've had to rip out and replace. Draw it out on a piece of paper so that when you come back to it in six months or a year you can figure out what you did. Not to mention the poor SOB you sell the thing to when you're done with it. I don't mean to sound harsh (well, yes I do) but the absolute CRAP work I've seen on the trailers, trucks, cars, and motorcycles I've had to deal with is just this side of criminal. Spend the money to get the correct color coded wire, terminals, and crimp tools, plan and document your work, and you'll never have to do it again. Try winging it and taking short cuts, and you'll be back here crying in your beer over some weird behavior nobody can help you with because the only solution is to rip it out and do it right.

:laughing::laughing: That is what I am trying to accomplish. Did not realize scotchlocs where that bad, and you don't want to see my overhead soldering. Hence why I am using terminal blocks. I am actually mounting a piece of conduit to the underside of the running gear(wagon frame) so that there will be no joints between the dash, and the back. As it is, I figure it will cost me about $300 to wire this with led lights, I only want to do it once.

When you say it will get hot, are you talking pedal or brakes? Would this be better? Amazon.com: Proxxon 38700 Foot Switch FS: Home Improvement

I do appreciate the help, I really do.

 

[300UGUY]

Have a good one guys!

 

[RedNeckGeek]

:laughing::laughing: That is what I am trying to accomplish. Did not realize scotchlocs where that bad, and you don't want to see my overhead soldering. Hence why I am using terminal blocks. I am actually mounting a piece of conduit to the underside of the running gear(wagon frame) so that there will be no joints between the dash, and the back. As it is, I figure it will cost me about $300 to wire this with led lights, I only want to do it once.

When you say it will get hot, are you talking pedal or brakes? Would this be better? Amazon.com: Proxxon 38700 Foot Switch FS: Home Improvement

I do appreciate the help, I really do.

The main concern is heat in the foot pedal switch. Reading through the comments for the Proxon switch seem to indicate it is just an on/off switch. That might be OK if you just want the brake to be on/off, too. But one of the comments seems to indicate that it is only rated for 4 amps, much less than the 6 amps that Eric indicated that the electric brake coils will draw. You could be sure by contacting the manufacturer, as the rating seems to be for 120V AC where your application is for 12V DC. 4 A * 120 V * .707 = 509 W, well in excess of the 90 W that would result at 12 V DC. That would make it OK, but maybe one of the electrical experts could check my math?

You might also check with McMaster.com to see if they have anything that would work. They seem to have everything else!

 

[RoyJackson]

2016-01-26, 0220

19 degrees right now...high of 43 today

 

[Eric Salop]

Good morning. The weather system that gave so many of you the white stuff last weekend has pushed it's way over the ocean to our shores. At least it has warmed up on the journey, so we should only get a soaking.

And now I have another question for you, with the raising of sheep that you do, does your wife work with any of the yarn crafts? Yes, I do know there I a lot of process between sheep and yarn, just curious.

Her crafts are mostly arty things and some sewing. The only wool she uses is bought already cleaned, dyed and spun. Not quite sure which part of me would be in pain if I suggested that next time she needs some wool, I collet her the daggings from the sheep.

 

[Eric Salop]

Reading through the comments for the Proxon switch seem to indicate it is just an on/off switch. That might be OK if you just want the brake to be on/off, too. But one of the comments seems to indicate that it is only rated for 4 amps, much less than the 6 amps that Eric indicated that the electric brake coils will draw.

I agree, the Proxon is an on/off ac rated switch that would not have a high enough rating.

How about we break the brake problem down into a few steps to try and help Kev out?

Step 1
Establish first what the maximum brake current needs to be. Kev, this one has to be down to you. Either

a) Find a rating plate, or a maker and part number and look up the data sheet. Or

b) Connect the brake lead to a battery through a meter and measure the current. Good time to check the brake works too. Or

c) Measure the brake size, find a few like it online and if they all take similar currents, use the highest value.


Step 2
Once Kev tells us the answer from step 1, I'm sure a few people will help him look for a readily available brake controller that has the required current rating, keeping in mind that Kev ideally wants to vary the load applied to the brake, not just on/off.

Step 3
If the combined resources of TBN can't find a good answer in Step 2, then we will have to think more radical - not something sold as a brake controller, consider anything that gives an adjustable output from a 12V supply.

 

[Eric Salop]

I can take a stab at this Kyle.

Use this formula: Q = mcDT [Heat transferred = (mass) X (specific heat) X (temperature change)].

The specific heat for aluminum is 0.92 kJ / kg C

Measure the mass in kilograms, use Celsius for the temp, and the result will be in kJ

Use an online calculator to convert from joules (kJ) to btu

Good luck

Very nicely explained.

When I was at school we measured energy in btu (Abbreviation for BRITISH thermal units). Then someone from Europe suggested we use Joules (1 watt for 1 second) and the sums became so much easier. Do you really still use ancient British units ? How quaint

 

[wngsprd]

Wow...37 outside...and going to 49! But rain likely tonight, so slush city with 1-2 feet of snow still on the ground.

Eric, everything we know we learned from the British!...except we do drive on the right side of the road.

Went for a 2 mile snowshoe hike yesterday...found the usual deer, fox, and squirrel tracks in the snow. Very interesting to see where they go and how they
search for food.

 

[Thomas]

21F cloudy maybe AM shower,high low 40's.:cool2:

One of kittens doesn't feel good so off to Vets for 7:30am visit...got a feeling going to be long day.

Maybe I'll cut some pallets for fire starter.

Enjoy the day all.

 

[daugen]

42 going to 61 today, much warmer day, lots planned outside.

Neighbors stopped over yesterday while I was working down at the barn and he asked
how the culvert was going. I pointed over to the big black pipe and, and...it was gone!
We all started looking around, who could have taken a 13 foot long piece of big plastic pipe?

Mother Nature of course...two inches of rain, an unsecured pipe sitting in the bottom of the ditch, the plastic
pipe went on a little sea cruise. Down the ditch it went, made the bend at the Y, and wound up all the way back in the woods a hundred feet away jammed into the main water ditch back there. It's actually pretty light for its size and very understandable how in the downpour it just merrily floated downstream.
I had been listening to the Allman Bros and thought I ought to change the tunes name from Traveling Man to Traveling Pipe...


And all good evidence on why culverts need to be secured...
I have the sand, just waiting on ABC either this afternoon or tomorrow morning. I didn't want to set the pipe in the sand because I figured I'd get stuck
with my pants down/stone not delivered and the whole thing would wash away. Which it clearly would have.
Once again, trying to get the ground as dry as possible before
the next big rain comes in. But the new water diversion ditches are doing their job, no big pools of standing water any more.

 

[txdon]

Good morning! 49˚.

RNG, a 4hour vinegar soak sort of worked. It was sluggish and sometimes took 10 seconds to come on but I managed to wash the two vehicles in the 70˚ temps yesterday. Now it's soaking overnight. I'm still looking for that add on switch for my china PW but not on the internet, I have given up.

All the Ebay parts for the 1947 Farmall are in and they are in good condition. I just need to make a trip to Harbor freight for some tall jack stands to hold the front of the tractor up while I drop the axel to get to the steering parts. Yes there will be pics.

 

[txdon]

Good morning! 49˚.

RNG, a 4hour vinegar soak sort of worked. It was sluggish and sometimes took 10 seconds to come on but I managed to wash the two vehicles in the 70˚ temps yesterday. Now it's soaking overnight. I'm still looking for that add on switch for my china PW but not on the internet, I have given up.

All the Ebay parts for the 1947 Farmall are in and they are in good condition. I just need to make a trip to Harbor freight for some tall jack stands to hold the front of the tractor up while I drop the axel to get to the steering parts. Yes there will be pics.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Good Morning! 47F @ 4:30 AM. Sunshine to start, then a few afternoon clouds. High near 60F. Winds light and variable.

Just catching up on some videos during the midnight to 5 AM Free Time when the data caps are lifted on the satellite Internet. Just another reason to love satellite. NOT!

Got the new ignition installed yesterday and fired it up. Lasted all of 30 seconds before the engine sputtered and died. The spark is still firing, but it's timed no where near where it should be. Seems like a typical early life failure of a solid state component in the ignition control unit. I'll be on the phone later today with the supplier and try to coax some info on failure rate. This is a new batch for the manufacturer, made after a 6 month delay in production due to these same issues. Doesn't bode well for a quick fix.

Nice day here yesterday though, with mild temps and a slight breeze. Nice enough for a little campfire, which I used to start burning old bank statements and such. Just dropping a few sheets in at a time while I sipped a Guinness got me through about a ream. Not even a dent in what's there to burn, but it's a start.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

RNG, a 4hour vinegar soak sort of worked. It was sluggish and sometimes took 10 seconds to come on but I managed to wash the two vehicles in the 70˚ temps yesterday. Now it's soaking overnight.

Vinegar isn't a very strong acid and takes a while to work. But it's still strong enough to pit zinc castings, so keep an eye on what you're soaking. Also helps to use a brush on the parts to clean off the build up as it softens. Maybe a bore brush if you've got a hole that's crudded up.

Do you think some lubricant between the parts would help? Maybe a light smear of silicon grease? :confused3:

 

[ronjhall]

Coffee just finished brewing. 50° with clear skies this morning. Heading to 67° with lots of sun. A shopping trip for the wife today. Yesterdays downspout project took more than planned. So it's a afternoon on the patio relaxing.
KevT, for brake control look into a Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller. It has a manual slide that can be applied with a manual foot pedal. You would have to make a foot pedal actuator to accurate the controller. Many electronic models will also work with their electronic controlled surge brake design. The foot switch you have selected could be used to activate the controller and LED lights. Instead of trying to design a brake controller. Use what is already designed to do the braking. When towing with a truck disconnect the wagon brake controller.
Good Morning All

 

[txdon]

Do you think some lubricant between the parts would help? Maybe a light smear of silicon grease? :confused3:

Thats what I used before and it always started working properly, but this time it did not. Maybe with the vinegar soaking and the grease . . . .