Good morning!!!!

[8n Bruce]

Hi Don From Texas Try ( pressure washer pressure switch) It's about 23F cloudy & we got a dusting overnight. Have a good day guys !!

 

[txdon]

Question, do you use the chemical injection part of the washer? It appears the white box is a part of that. If you were to take the soap injector components off, then your hose would screw into the unloader. The unloader is what is calling for pressure or shutoff.

You could screw a cap onto the threads and just remove the soap injector...if your soaking doesn't fix the issue. Otherwise, you'll need to research for a replacement soap injector.

Is this your pump?

View attachment 454868

Found it by model search - China firm selling the pump. Notice it lacks the soap injector, probably made by another China firm.

Thats it. I do use the soap injector every time. This is my car wash pressure washer. I'll see how the soaking goes.

8nbruce, This is an automatic on off switch for an electric pressure washer which is triggered by change of pressure by means of a tiny plunger (near the soap injector) moving back and forth activating an electrical switch. The tiny plunger did stick occasionally however now I need a pliers to pull it out - it should move freely. They probably don't make them any more for that reason. I could just cap it and let pressure washer run. How long before it would burn up with no flow?

 

[Depmandog]

Any engineers or cooling experts out there? I need some engineering help. I need to figure out how much of a glycol circulating cooling system I need to freeze a block of aluminum 2" x 12" x 12" to 14F by circulating the glycol in cooling channels in the block. Outside temp should not exceed 80F. Should I use Fourier's Law? I can insulate the bottom and the sides with styrofoam. My initial calculations came up to around 154,000 btu/hr. Can that be right? This is for a small project I have at work that I would like to implement in the shop. It would be great if I could sabotage an old freezer compressor, add a heat exchanger and a glycol tank and pump.

I can take a stab at this Kyle.

Use this formula: Q = mcDT [Heat transferred = (mass) X (specific heat) X (temperature change)].

The specific heat for aluminum is 0.92 kJ / kg C

Measure the mass in kilograms, use Celsius for the temp, and the result will be in kJ

Use an online calculator to convert from joules (kJ) to btu

Good luck

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I can take a stab at this Kyle.

Use this formula: Q = mcDT [Heat transferred = (mass) X (specific heat) X (temperature change)].

The specific heat for aluminum is 0.92 kJ / kg C

Measure the mass in kilograms, use Celsius for the temp, and the result will be in kJ

Use an online calculator to convert from joules (kJ) to btu

Good luck

Thanks, I will check it out.

 

[KevT]

As Eric suggested, and assuming the foot switch is nothing more than a variable resistor, wire it in series with the brake coils. It's acting to limit current flow, so put an ohm meter across the leads coming out of it and make sure that resistance drops as the pedal is depressed. Ideally resistance would be infinite with the pedal all the way up. Also make sure it's rated for the current being drawn. If the foot pedal is rated in Watts, that 6 amps will put out almost 90 W @ 12.5 volts. That's a LOT of heat.

Please don't use ScotchLocs! They physically damage the wires, which later fatigue and break inside the Loc, so they're not making contact but look like they are. For a while I switched to PosiLocks and PosiTaps, but really the best way is to strip back 3/8" of wire, tin it with a soldering iron and rosin core solder, then use a single strand of copper from a multi strand wire to wrap the two conductors together tightly. Then solder them together, and finish up with a coat or three of liquid insulation for a waterproof joint. Or better yet, route all wires to end at terminal blocks and use the correct crimp on eyelets.

Don't be one of those guys who's work I've had to rip out and replace. Draw it out on a piece of paper so that when you come back to it in six months or a year you can figure out what you did. Not to mention the poor SOB you sell the thing to when you're done with it. I don't mean to sound harsh (well, yes I do) but the absolute CRAP work I've seen on the trailers, trucks, cars, and motorcycles I've had to deal with is just this side of criminal. Spend the money to get the correct color coded wire, terminals, and crimp tools, plan and document your work, and you'll never have to do it again. Try winging it and taking short cuts, and you'll be back here crying in your beer over some weird behavior nobody can help you with because the only solution is to rip it out and do it right.

:laughing::laughing: That is what I am trying to accomplish. Did not realize scotchlocs where that bad, and you don't want to see my overhead soldering. Hence why I am using terminal blocks. I am actually mounting a piece of conduit to the underside of the running gear(wagon frame) so that there will be no joints between the dash, and the back. As it is, I figure it will cost me about $300 to wire this with led lights, I only want to do it once.

When you say it will get hot, are you talking pedal or brakes? Would this be better? Amazon.com: Proxxon 38700 Foot Switch FS: Home Improvement

I do appreciate the help, I really do.

 

[300UGUY]

Have a good one guys!

 

[RedNeckGeek]

:laughing::laughing: That is what I am trying to accomplish. Did not realize scotchlocs where that bad, and you don't want to see my overhead soldering. Hence why I am using terminal blocks. I am actually mounting a piece of conduit to the underside of the running gear(wagon frame) so that there will be no joints between the dash, and the back. As it is, I figure it will cost me about $300 to wire this with led lights, I only want to do it once.

When you say it will get hot, are you talking pedal or brakes? Would this be better? Amazon.com: Proxxon 38700 Foot Switch FS: Home Improvement

I do appreciate the help, I really do.

The main concern is heat in the foot pedal switch. Reading through the comments for the Proxon switch seem to indicate it is just an on/off switch. That might be OK if you just want the brake to be on/off, too. But one of the comments seems to indicate that it is only rated for 4 amps, much less than the 6 amps that Eric indicated that the electric brake coils will draw. You could be sure by contacting the manufacturer, as the rating seems to be for 120V AC where your application is for 12V DC. 4 A * 120 V * .707 = 509 W, well in excess of the 90 W that would result at 12 V DC. That would make it OK, but maybe one of the electrical experts could check my math?

You might also check with McMaster.com to see if they have anything that would work. They seem to have everything else!

 

[RoyJackson]

2016-01-26, 0220

19 degrees right now...high of 43 today

 

[Eric Salop]

Good morning. The weather system that gave so many of you the white stuff last weekend has pushed it's way over the ocean to our shores. At least it has warmed up on the journey, so we should only get a soaking.

And now I have another question for you, with the raising of sheep that you do, does your wife work with any of the yarn crafts? Yes, I do know there I a lot of process between sheep and yarn, just curious.

Her crafts are mostly arty things and some sewing. The only wool she uses is bought already cleaned, dyed and spun. Not quite sure which part of me would be in pain if I suggested that next time she needs some wool, I collet her the daggings from the sheep.

 

[Eric Salop]

Reading through the comments for the Proxon switch seem to indicate it is just an on/off switch. That might be OK if you just want the brake to be on/off, too. But one of the comments seems to indicate that it is only rated for 4 amps, much less than the 6 amps that Eric indicated that the electric brake coils will draw.

I agree, the Proxon is an on/off ac rated switch that would not have a high enough rating.

How about we break the brake problem down into a few steps to try and help Kev out?

Step 1
Establish first what the maximum brake current needs to be. Kev, this one has to be down to you. Either

a) Find a rating plate, or a maker and part number and look up the data sheet. Or

b) Connect the brake lead to a battery through a meter and measure the current. Good time to check the brake works too. Or

c) Measure the brake size, find a few like it online and if they all take similar currents, use the highest value.


Step 2
Once Kev tells us the answer from step 1, I'm sure a few people will help him look for a readily available brake controller that has the required current rating, keeping in mind that Kev ideally wants to vary the load applied to the brake, not just on/off.

Step 3
If the combined resources of TBN can't find a good answer in Step 2, then we will have to think more radical - not something sold as a brake controller, consider anything that gives an adjustable output from a 12V supply.