Chainsaw Sharpening question

[woodlandfarms]

On all of these notes, thank you guys very much. On my property, even if you are keeping it out of the dirt you are in the dirt. Trees on my property are coated in moss, lots of leaf buildup that means dirt. Also, the larger maples which must be at least 200 years old are now at the end of life and getting blown down in our big windstorms. THey tend to have hollow spots.

As for the fencepost, my only story is in Wyoming, cutting down a tree, hit metal partway through the cut. Turned out it was a fencepost the seedling must have grown up and around. Took a long time as I remember cutting around the post before the tree fell.

 

[oldballs]

Oh Yeah, in my Osage Orange trees property line, barbed wire is embedded such that one does not see it until you note that the saw is not cutting as well. But that's not as bad as a T-post.

 

[The Fred]

I think filing by hand is hard to learn at first; a few tips that helped me:

Start in the shop with a steady vise mounted on a rugged bench so the saw stays put.

Chain should be adjusted with no slack.

A good pair of magnifying glasses for us older folks, I use 300s and must have my face kind of close to the saw to really see those teeth.

Every tooth need not be the same length, in fact that is why we need to adjust the depth gauge for each tooth.

Keep those angles right, use a guide at first and when you get comfortable discard it. Look really close at that tooth to see the "sharpness" only cut back until the bad spot is gone at the top of the tooth.

Use up pressure to hold the file up, many folks (including me) have a tendency to use too much down pressure; creating a large "hook" under the top of the tooth. This is in correct, the proper tooth has almost no hook on the angle side of the tooth.

When you realize how nice it is to do your own filing you will see an immediate savings on your saw filing bill and chain replacements.
It's really fun to take an old chain that should be in the trash, and get it right so you can cut some wood and pat yourself on the back.

Spend some quality time on Youtube I see Stihl has some nice videos of the correct way to file your saw chain.

After running saws over 30 years cutting firewood and working as a hobbyist in the woods I have a really tough time trying to sharpen my saws without a rugged stationary vise mounted firmly to a bench.

On 3/8 chisel chain I start with a 7/32' file but when I get near the end of the tooth's life I use a 13/64" file that is just a touch smaller diameter.

Good luck and keep those filings out of your eyes, Fred

 

[JFoy]

Twenty strokes ! You need better wood or a better file !
I touch mine up every three tanks or so with three or four strokes.

Hmm.. You may be right. I've never looked that closely at the chain as I was doing it.

 

[CobyRupert]

Good points THEre FRED.
I'm in the hand file often camp.
Don't forget about filing down the rakers from time to time. Before buying a "measure guide" for the rakers I use to do them only when it seemed it has been a while, or if I'd found that I'd filed another 1/3 of the tooth away without dealing with them. Being the impatient type I usually file the rakers with a dremel instead of a flat file.
Without the guide you can take off too much and end up with a chain that REALLY takes a bite. Too much. Hold on when it kicks and have the horsepower to turn it.
Why go to a smaller file when at end of chain life? Is it because the tooth is shorter at that end?

 

[BoylermanCT]

I use a Dremel tool (HF) with diamond sharpening bits. Touch each cutter for 1/4 second and have the chain done in 60 seconds. I touch up at each fueling.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I also hand file on the saw... if I'm cutting alot, it's as needed, perhaps every other fuel fill up I'll touch it up, or if I can wait I'll put the bar in the vice when I get back to the barn. I can use a bare file, but keep one with a flat type guide on it handy, it's easier. I flat file the raker teeth once in a while.

 

[dstig1]

Another file by hand guy, but I won't say I'm good at it. It is very easy to make a chain that turns left or right after a number of hand filings. When that starts to happen, I will bring it in for a grinder filing to true it back up. At some point I will probably get the Northern/HF grinder so I can do that part myself. I won't say I do it every tank as it does take a bit of time (I'm not known for my working speed...) but a couple times a day on a full day of cutting, for sure. I have a cheapo stump vise to help out. I also use a pretty simple guide. I have the Stihl one, but I got a couple others that are a little easier to use. I forget the name something German/Austrian from one of the file companies I think - maybe Pferd? I still apparently wander enough to cause the cut to bend a bit after a bunch of file sharpening... So either the stump vise in the field, or I made a simple bar clamp fixture that I use on my work bench in my bigger vise for filing, so far.

and yes - 3-4-5 strokes is the range for this with a file in decent condition.

 

[CobyRupert]

Admittedly, it is hard to hand file equally when filing left handed and then right handed (or else jockeying around the saw). And this can lead to sideway curves.
But also check that the "rails" of the bar are equally wearing. Place a straight edge perpendicularly across them to see if they're level with each other. Sometimes the user can have a habit when cutting of torquing the saw one way or another and wearing one side more. This is why you should flip the bar periodically.

 

[Patches]

I think filing by hand is hard to learn at first; a few tips that helped me:
Keep those angles right, use a guide at first and when you get comfortable discard it. Look really close at that tooth to see the "sharpness" only cut back until the bad spot is gone at the top of the tooth.

Use up pressure to hold the file up, many folks (including me) have a tendency to use too much down pressure; creating a large "hook" under the top of the tooth. This is in correct, the proper tooth has almost no hook on the angle side of the tooth.

I've been playing with saws for forty years and still use the guide out in the woods; it keeps the angle correct and prevents your creating the "hook" you refer to. If you need the raker gauge, you should use the file guide also; takes no more time and prevents your mentioned issues

 

[dadster4]

Another vote for the Timberline sharpener. I never had a problem putting a good cutting edge on any woodworking tool or knife, but never did too well with the chainsaw. It always cut better after sharpening, but did not last long and occasionally would pull left or right. Since getting the Timberline, all my chains cut true and last many more cuts between sharpening. Not cheap by any means, but worth it to me. :cool2:

 

[dodge man]

I have a dremel type tool made by Stihl that has alligator clips you just hook on to any 12 volt battery. I can sharpen my chain on the saw in 5 minutes. It has a guide line on it so you always maintain the factory angle. My 35 year old one gave up the ghost a couple years ago so I bought a new one. Best 30 bucks ever spent.

I have a very similar setup but made by Oregon I think. I almost think its as quick to sharpen it on the saw as to swap out a chain. I have a couple of chains but just swap it out once in a while and flip the bar while I'm at it. I also sharpen by hand too.

 

[Cord]

Sharpening with a file in a file holder isn't difficult once someone shows you how. Then you can sharpen on the bar out in the woods, no vise or power needed and you can sharpen every couple of gas fill-up's or so, whilst you are working. Keep the file horizontal to the bar and at the angle notched on the guide. I do 3 forward strokes per tooth..

I agree. I use a file in a holder to dress up the chain as necessary. Really extends the life and usability of the chain between proper sharpenings. My only fault is that I try to get too much life out of the files.

 

[clemsonfor]

i have the HF grinder. Its good for what it is, but thats it. Once you use a better grinder you really see the difference. One thing is to make sure you get the right size wheel for the HF grinder. it comes with a 3/8" LOW PROFILE wheel which is different than a normal full size 3/8'' size grinding wheel.

I was never a great hand filer as i never tried to learn before i got big into saws. But i can still grind with the HF grinder better than hand file, but the consistency is not there as there is so much slop in the grinder.

The timber tuff grinder and Roughneck (northerntool version) is a copy of one of the Oregon grinders. Its 20x the machine the HF grinder is. I got mine on sale with a coupon for $90 at NT. It has two more adjustments to fine tune a chain that the HF one does not. Once i used it i can really see the short comings of the HF unit.

I have a few dozen chains. I never sharpen in the woods and am ADD and cant sit to file the larger bars or chains (not blades) so i just take a few loops of whatever i am useing and then i sharpen them when i feel like it later.

To use the dremel you have to basically know what your doing with a hand file first and like someone said its going to be way easier to hack up a chain with that thing than hand fileing. With any machine or grinder you have to actually under stand how to hand file to get good results.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Or, if you have forgotten your stump vise, you could do it this way:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoNDVKdQX_A

Of course, if your saw is really dull, this would be tough to do!

 

[bspeedy]

Guess I'm among the minority. Never hand file. I've tried it, but must not have a feel for it because the chain performance does not improve. I replace chains as I work and use the bench mounted sharpener when I get back to the shop. Take as little off as possible to get a good edge and it works like a new chain. I have a sharpener from Tractor Supply that works great for this.

 

[Jw5875]

I purchased the Stihl 2 n 1 file guide. Sharpens the cutter and takes the guide down at the same time.
Very pleased with it, and I also take the chains to the Oregon grinder to keep all of the cutters the same length
after a few hand filings.
A little pricey - "Only a buck more to go first class"

jw5875

 

[Ford850]

I purchased the Stihl 2 n 1 file guide. Sharpens the cutter and takes the guide down at the same time.
Very pleased with it, and I also take the chains to the Oregon grinder to keep all of the cutters the same length
after a few hand filings.
A little pricey - "Only a buck more to go first class"

jw5875

I've been eyeing that 2 in 1 sharpener. I file mine currently, and take them in to the saw shop after they get too far out of shape. I haven't decided if I want to go first class by getting that Stihl 2 in 1, or if I want to go by private jet and get the Timberline.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Guess I am asking what do other people do.

This has been my process since 2010. I've Stihl -021,660,660,088, Efco 3600, JD 62 for saws, with bars ranging form 10" to 42", and generally 2 or more bars per saw size, and 4 or more chains per bar size. I used to do more Chain Saw Milling.

Seems like a lot of discussion on hand filing. Knowing how to hand file should be mandatory for anyone running a chain saw. But being able to keep all the angles proper and the rakers at the right depth is a difficult feat to master.
As I think I've posted elsewhere here I'm into chain saw milling.

I generally need to either swap or "touch up" chains about every 10' to 15' of 20" hardwood to keep every thing running smoothly. So my process is to hand file while outside, usually with a file and a Carlton File-O-Plate (FOP). That's the $5 solution.

Then when I get them inside (generally after having been "touched up" three times) I use a Granberg File'n Joint (a fancy file guide/jig) which is the $30 solution. This is probably good enough for most firewood cutters, especially if they don't rock the chain.

Then after 3 or so "Granberg" sharpenings (which would include about 9 or 10 FOP filings) I put it on the NT grinder to "true" all the angles up. That's the $100 solution.

One of the problems if you get your angles off is that the cut starts to curve a little, not much of a problem on a 2' crosscut, but a major problem on a 10' rip. Another is if you hit a nail or a rock and damage a few teeth, it's easier to grind them to get back in shape.

I tend to sharpen or swap chains based on chip size. When it gets small it's time to sharpen. About every "Granberg" I flat file the rakers.

Note - most of the time when I use the grinder it is just a light touch, as my hand filing has improved.

 

[clemsonfor]

Twenty strokes ! You need better wood or a better file !
I touch mine up every three tanks or so with three or four strokes.

Yea that file is dull!!