What to look for buying old Farmall

   / What to look for buying old Farmall
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Sellers LOVE guys like you, you are in a hurry to buy and you know what THAT means... lol

SR
Uh- not quite, Sawyer. I've been watching this for a long time. Pretty consistently, there are fewer of these older Farmalls here in Calif., and when one comes up in good condition, they think they have a 'valuable antique' on their hands and want a lot for it. But up north the attitude is more pragmatic, there are fewer 'luxury buyers' and people look at what the unit is really capable of, the reality of repair, etc. The Cub I'm looking at had the price knocked down a lot for lack of interest, even though it's a good runner with new tires. Same is true of cars and trucks- cost more in Calif.

Calif. is a big ag state, but because it is a BIG ag state, I wonder if fewer of these smaller tractors ended up here. They need big tractors on those huge operations in the central valley. Whereas, in Washington and Oregon, there have always been a lot of smaller operations along side the large ones, so more of the smaller units ended up there. Thus now the used market is flooded, and they have to knock down the price to sell. As well the population is lower and economy less robust, so fewer buyers.

It also seems like there are more old tractors up north that have been maintained for use than down here- you'll find a lot of rusted wrecks in the weeds for sale here for a low price, "ran well when parked 5 years ago". yeah right. But if it's running well now that's because someone worked on it to make it so. Smaller ag operations up north can continue to use small units from the 50s cause they still serve their needs.

I'm looking for a good runner that will do small scale grading for me, and be my 'pride and joy'. For years now watching the listings, they consistently come up more up north. Right now there are several good buys up there. And, I've always wanted to see Seattle and visit a friend up there. $175 to rent a U-Haul to bring a Cub down south? sure, why not. $1200 to pay a hauler for a Super A? that's a different story.
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #22  
I wouldn't settle for a cub, when the A is what you need...

I'd also be looking in other states...

Also, if you don't want to do a lot of repairs, I'd be looking for one in better shape, even if it did cost more...

Lastly, if you buy an old tractor you must KNOW you WILL have repairs, old = some repairs... and I'm talking from experience here, and it doesn't matter what brand you own...

SR
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #23  
Yeah I'm not expecting a **** of a lot from this tractor, and I know it's no substitute for a modern unit. Eventually I'll get a 30-40 hp 4x4 HST with loader and backhoe. Not ready for that. I want a toy. I'm already addicted to old tractors and I haven't even bought one yet. It's probably totally the wrong thing to, and that's probably totally why I'm doing it. Know what I mean?

But an A will do some work and I can use it to grade 1/2 mile of gravel road and push some snow.

Seller with the leaky Super A responded, says it's leaking at the hyd. pump and one front wheel bearing, not engine or trans. Easy fix?

So- a Super A with front blade and rear Gannon, needs a little hydraulic repair and a front wheel bearing or two, $2400. Sound like a decent deal?

And, how does $1200 sound for hauling about 1000 miles?

Good input guys

If you want to mess the tractor, the A is probably the way to go. Wheel bearing leak is not bad. Hydro pump, not sure. Not liable to be serious, but at least in the H, the pump is inside the clutch/tranny housing, and while you may not have to quite split the tractor to get at it, you have to come pretty darn close. It's not the easiest thing to get at. While $1200 is great for that distance, keep in mind, that's still half the price of the tractor. Add another grand to your budget, look closer and see what happens. I too would be looking for something closer.
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #24  
For alternative shipping options, checkout the "hauling schedule" on yesterdaystractors.com. Some real bargains on there sometimes. Ken Sweet
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #25  
I'd pass on all three if you really want a working tractor. No 3 point hitch, no live hydraulics, funky PTO.

If you're hot for a Farmall, I'd still pass on the Cub. It's basically a glorified lawn tractor, very little power. Lot of folks love them, but trying to get any serious work done with them is a hassle.

The Super A is WAY more tractor. You're looking at drawbar implements for any of them, I'd pass on the more expensive one unless the implements are in excellent condition and exactly what you need.

You might be surprised how much pasture grass a cub can mow with a Mott hammer knife belly mower. I used to mow grass and weeds up to the top of the hood on a 5 acre pasture with a 1947 Cub and 4 ft. mower. It also kept the drive open with a belly mounted blade for a couple years here in Central Illinois. It wasn't ideal but definitely more than a lawn tractor and it was pretty cool at the same time :)

Kevin

Kevin
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #26  
traction wise a cub is better than a lawnmower. I did a tug of war contest with a neighbor and his '25hp' craftsman.. my ?13hp cub pulled him all over his yard... he simply had no traction...
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #27  
I'm NOT saying a cub won't do work, but a cub is a toy compared to an A.

SR
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #28  
I'm NOT saying a cub won't do work, but a cub is a toy compared to an A.

SR

I had a next door neighbor that took care of his 100 acre farm for several years with only an A. He had 2 acres or tobacco, 30 acres of hay and 10 acres of corn and milked 15 cows. Ken Sweet
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #29  
I use to use my A around the sawmill some,

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But, these days it just sits in the barn...

SR
 
   / What to look for buying old Farmall #30  
I'm NOT saying a cub won't do work, but a cub is a toy compared to an A.

SR

And I'd even prefer a C really, minimum.. Up to a 300 / m or h if doing anything big.
 

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