bullbreaker
Elite Member
Sixdogs,check this out :James Engineering - Super Subsoiler.
I could just imagine the price tag !
Boone
I could just imagine the price tag !
Boone
Scored a one shank ripper-subsoiler
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sixdogs
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Sixdogs,check this out :James Engineering - Super Subsoiler.
I could just imagine the price tag !
Boone
Wow--that one is is pretty rugged. I could imagine the price. The attachment on the back looks like it pulls drain tile in but I'm not sure.
In Ohio a lot of land is tiled with 4-6" tile and it is pulled with maybe a 3 ft
deep ripper that also sets the plastic pipe in the ground. Some is deeper.
You should see the incredible ripper type things that huge tractors or even bulldozers pull.
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sixdogs
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Here are some final photos showing how the stand works and how the lower cat I pins work on my Kubota L4300DT. The Kubota will easily dig 14 inches and that is enough to shatter the hardpan here. There is also a photo of where I just used it and you can see the chunks of drt and clay it rips up.
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sixdogs
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Here's an update on this old thread. I have used this implement for a few years now and it has been so great I would like to strongly suggest it to others. First, I use it to rip along the edge of fields to root prune trees over the border that send roots into the fields in search of nutrients. I can see a difference in the crop.
Second is for garden use. You have to be careful there's nothing underneath but with my MX5100 or L4300 Kubota I can go 12" to 14" deep and there is a noticeable improvement in yields. More important, there is rarely any standing water in the spring and the ground dries out and warms up faster. I can get on it sooner.
Third is general farm use. One shank is not real handy because of spacing and fuel use but a three shank minimum would work like a charm. That would give a 30" spacing and with a "winged" point on it would be an acceptable spacing. With only narrow points the suggested spacing is 20".
In addition, with a bigger tractor and CATII, I have ripped out big rocks and pulled stumps I thought I would have to back hoe out. They just popped out.
Anyway, if you ever see one of these and think you might have use for one, buy it. I've only seen a couple for sale and they go fast. Single shanks sell in the $600 to $750 range used and the $850+ area new. The Deere ripper doesn't look as good as this one and I think is $1500.
Oh, the one in this thread weighs 250 lbs and is rated at 125 HP. For those who think you don't need a parking stand, you better be strong and quick because to stand it up and hook to a 3pt hitch takes a lot of multi tasking and four arms.
Second is for garden use. You have to be careful there's nothing underneath but with my MX5100 or L4300 Kubota I can go 12" to 14" deep and there is a noticeable improvement in yields. More important, there is rarely any standing water in the spring and the ground dries out and warms up faster. I can get on it sooner.
Third is general farm use. One shank is not real handy because of spacing and fuel use but a three shank minimum would work like a charm. That would give a 30" spacing and with a "winged" point on it would be an acceptable spacing. With only narrow points the suggested spacing is 20".
In addition, with a bigger tractor and CATII, I have ripped out big rocks and pulled stumps I thought I would have to back hoe out. They just popped out.
Anyway, if you ever see one of these and think you might have use for one, buy it. I've only seen a couple for sale and they go fast. Single shanks sell in the $600 to $750 range used and the $850+ area new. The Deere ripper doesn't look as good as this one and I think is $1500.
Oh, the one in this thread weighs 250 lbs and is rated at 125 HP. For those who think you don't need a parking stand, you better be strong and quick because to stand it up and hook to a 3pt hitch takes a lot of multi tasking and four arms.
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MF283
Platinum Member
I have an older Taylorway single point that i've used for years, recently did one 5 acre field to help keep run off to a minimum being it's sloped & catches a lot of water.
After 3" of rain Sunday, i see it still needs a little work short of building berms, which would be a pain i think getting hay off it.
Thanks for the update & i totally agree, they are worth it. I ran a 3 pointer behind a 140 HP tractor for wifes uncle several years ago, he said bury it(24"), talk about rolling some smoke & then having younger nephews cleaning the rocks out, the field produced though.
Ronnie
After 3" of rain Sunday, i see it still needs a little work short of building berms, which would be a pain i think getting hay off it.
Thanks for the update & i totally agree, they are worth it. I ran a 3 pointer behind a 140 HP tractor for wifes uncle several years ago, he said bury it(24"), talk about rolling some smoke & then having younger nephews cleaning the rocks out, the field produced though.
Ronnie
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sixdogs
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Yeah, I went 24" deep in one area of an old debris non-farm field and it was quite a tug. We pulled up chunks the size of small garbage cans. No standing water now.
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Next personal project on my bench after my tilt cylinder.
That thing's a beast!
How thick is the cross tube?
That thing's a beast!
How thick is the cross tube?
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
I've got a 4x4x5/16 I'll be using.
buickanddeere
Super Member
I have something similar with a JD 10B iirc. They make a 10" wide "lazer tip" which combined with a shortened top link will really lift a wide channel of dirt. Being hard clay soil, the shank was set way deep at 26-28"
After ripping , every trip down the field can be seen months later as taller and greener. No standing water after rains anymore. The water stays in the soil instead of flooding ditches.
On the to-do list is to make a shoe to bury cables, hoses and maybe even 4" drainage tile.
After ripping , every trip down the field can be seen months later as taller and greener. No standing water after rains anymore. The water stays in the soil instead of flooding ditches.
On the to-do list is to make a shoe to bury cables, hoses and maybe even 4" drainage tile.
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Jim Timber
Veteran Member
^^^ This and laying cable/pipe is why I'm building mine. I'm hoping to short circuit some run-off erosion and localized high land flooding.
Coyote machine
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Wow--that one is is pretty rugged. I could imagine the price. The attachment on the back looks like it pulls drain tile in but I'm not sure. <Snip>
I drilled down through the specs and it is for laying 50' sections of pipe, IIRC.
BTW, Nice refab on that spike! Wow- that must have taken a lot of hours and $ to do that all to it.:thumbsup:You should be very pleased with the outcome.
You should see the incredible ripper type things that huge tractors or even bulldozers pull.
I saw the guys on Gold Rush break a dozer's rear ripper(s), digging Tundra/permafrost. Couldn't believe the forces involved - made the dozer look like a toy!
Ground engaging tools - mother nature wins:confused3:
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Ice is one of the best forms of cement.
Frozen ground might as well be concrete in some cases.
Frozen ground might as well be concrete in some cases.
Tinstafl
Silver Member
My Brother in law took a whole couple seasons to deep rip his fields. He dropped six shanks down three feet. He had 20 percent slippage but did the job. The root ps of the corn were way bigger in the fields he did and he had less issues with Jack of moisture. Also the stalks stood up to the heavy winds better. Now he was using a 350 hp tractor with duals all around. Only has to do the job once and it should last as long as you don't compact it. The areas around the gates get done every couple years still but the rest of the land us still good.
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Gravity and water will eventually do it again, but it's not a short term issue.
I'm looking forward to spring so I can get ripping. I'm anxious to see how well my tractor can pull, and I'd love to be free of high land mud.
I'm looking forward to spring so I can get ripping.
I'm anxious to see how well my tractor can pull, and I'd love to be free of high land mud.
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sixdogs
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Just thought I would toss this in about the current thinking on agricultural purpose ripping/subsoiling. The point of ripping is to shatter the hardpan created by traffic from equipment, etc. A few years back, the thinking was to rip really deep to get the job done and 24" to 30" was typical. That's all changed.
It is now believed that ripping only to the depth of the "plow pan" ,where packing occurs is all that is necessary or desirable. Further, going deeper only tends to invert the soil structure and does more harm than good because it brings up marginal quality soil. Around the clay ground here, where compaction is an issue, you never hear of anyone going more than 12" to 14".
Let me add that ripping is best done in the dry part of fall so the soil can be fractured better and compaction broken up. It doesn't work so well in the wetter times of the year.
It is now believed that ripping only to the depth of the "plow pan" ,where packing occurs is all that is necessary or desirable. Further, going deeper only tends to invert the soil structure and does more harm than good because it brings up marginal quality soil. Around the clay ground here, where compaction is an issue, you never hear of anyone going more than 12" to 14".
Let me add that ripping is best done in the dry part of fall so the soil can be fractured better and compaction broken up. It doesn't work so well in the wetter times of the year.
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Jim Timber
Veteran Member
If I don't cut my clay layer, I'll still have mud in September.
My land has never been farmed, yet I have hard pan. How is that? Gravity, water, and time.
My land has never been farmed, yet I have hard pan. How is that? Gravity, water, and time.
If I don't cut my clay layer, I'll still have mud in September.
My land has never been farmed, yet I have hard pan. How is that? Gravity, water, and time.
Thousands of years of buffalo walking on it?
Bruce
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Thousands of years of buffalo walking on it?
Bruce
Really fat squirrels and the occasional deer.
