I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar.

   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #51  
I would have to agree I've never played with any hot saws

I don't have anything too hot. Just my dolmar. It was a 6400 but put an 84cc too end on. Mild port job and muffler is all. Since the stock 7900 is 6.3hp I am guessing this one is around 7.0. It will run with my buddy's 660 but a good bit lighter and easier to handle
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #52  
93A74481-4723-40F1-8AC8-619CBB10F158_zpsnzktnixs.jpg

362CM is a good size and comfortable to use. 661CM is a good workout and requires good hearing protection to use...

Both saws are really easy to start, the electronic fuel system works really well, in fact, wouldn't even consider buying one without after using these for a bit now, if it's an option of course.

Nice thing with Stihl or Husky is the parts and knowledge available if you do have any issues.
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #53  
It's common in Mi.,

My point is, my Husky 55 came with a 20" bar... So did my 350 and my new 550xp, and there's a HUGE amount of hard wood around here! (including here in my wood lot)

SR

It seems I was too generalized in my area description in that case. Let me edit my statement:

"It's common out West to see saws of any given displacement running longer bars than in the Midwest. There are, of course exceptions and my personal experience is limited to Wisconsin and Minnesota."

Rob, I'm sorry if I posted something that's contrary to your experience. I don't think it was necessary to question my knowledge of the situation, but if you got to do it that way, so be it. If you want to run 20" bars on 50cc saws, that's just fine by me. Maybe if someone needed the extra reach while limbing it would make sense. Personally, I think a 50cc saw handles better, is more fun, and considerably less fatiguing to use when dressed in a shorter bar.

For the record, I think bringing up different chain size in this discussion is unnecessary. My point about running longer bars out West was to give context to my recommendation for a more powerful saw for the OP than I would recommend for someone cutting softwood in Washington. For you to bring up how you can pull a longer bar with a narrower chain, such as .325 or 3/8 lo pro is irrelevant to this conversation in my opinion because we're talking about a saw that's mostly going to use a 24" bar. Are you recommending the OP buy a 60cc saw with a 24" bar running .325 chain? To me that's a goofy setup. .325 or any other narrower kerf chain has advantages, to be sure, but it's more difficult to sharpen, has more cutters, and dulls faster than 3/8 pitch chain. For a saw that is gonna pull a 24" bar day to day, I want something with plenty of power to use 3/8 pitch semi-skip semi-chisel chain. This chain will cut fast, be slower to dull and faster to sharpen than other setups.
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #54  
To the OP, I don't think you're going to see much increase in power going from a 54cc Stihl 029 to a 60cc Echo (or anything else for that matter). It's possible that one of the computer controlled saws would do the job and have a big enough power increase that you'd really notice it, but to really have a nice time cutting oak with a 24" bar, I think you need at least 70ccs.
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #55  
Has anyone used both the MS361 and the MS362? I have the MS361 and have wondered if there is any real difference between the old version and the new?
I have never cut with a 362,but I have handled one, and the balance amd weight seems to be about the same. I think the claimed horsepower was a tick higher for the 362,but I doubt that would make any noticeable real-world difference. I would bet the fuel economy is way, way better on the 362. It sips it. I was actually right on the cusp of the 361's still being available as a new unit when I bought the 362, and I was skeptical as I usually am about buying a first year issued unit. The dealer told me to take it home and use it. If I wasn't impressed, he gave me the option to bring it back and he would find me a 361. I haven't been back for anything other than maintenance items since. I have been very impressed.
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #56  
What's really fun is a saw with 650/660 power and 372xp weight :thumbsup:

As soon as you wrote this I immediately thought "that's a 7900!". I have one and the only mod is the popular HD filter kit. I gained 10% to 15% more cutting speed just by adding the filter kit and re-tuning the carb. Just with bigger filter and intake that comes with the kit, I'd bet it's near 7.0 hp.

It wears a 20" chain the most and is very easy handling with that. I also have a 28" with full comp and a 37" with skip tooth. Don't know if the 37" needs the skip tooth. It pulls it like a beast through anything.

I know a guy who builds 7900s out of used Makita 6401. He puts on a 7900 head, new 24" bar, new chain, warrantees it for 2 years and sells them for $500. Mines not one of his, I found out about him later.

Kiara with 7900.jpg
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #57  
To the OP, I don't think you're going to see much increase in power going from a 54cc Stihl 029 to a 60cc Echo (or anything else for that matter). It's possible that one of the computer controlled saws would do the job and have a big enough power increase that you'd really notice it, but to really have a nice time cutting oak with a 24" bar, I think you need at least 70ccs.

Agree that 70cc+ for big oak.

But disagree with the other part. Going from an 029 to any pro 60cc class saw is going to be a world of difference. The 029, for its CC's and weight, is a slow cutting saw
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #58  
As soon as you wrote this I immediately thought "that's a 7900!". I have one and the only mod is the popular HD filter kit. I gained 10% to 15% more cutting speed just by adding the filter kit and re-tuning the carb. Just with bigger filter and intake that comes with the kit, I'd bet it's near 7.0 hp.

It wears a 20" chain the most and is very easy handling with that. I also have a 28" with full comp and a 37" with skip tooth. Don't know if the 37" needs the skip tooth. It pulls it like a beast through anything.

I know a guy who builds 7900s out of used Makita 6401. He puts on a 7900 head, new 24" bar, new chain, warrantees it for 2 years and sells them for $500. Mines not one of his, I found out about him later.

View attachment 459543

7900 is a great running saw. I loved mine. But someone wanted it and my other saws more than me about 10 years ago or so.

With the insurance money to replace that saw, I could either get a new 7900 w/24" bar like I had......or get a 6400 w/20" bar + 84cc top-end kit + HD filter kit (forgot to mention that earlier) + 24" carlton B&C.

I though the money was better spent on the later.
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #59  
Agree that 70cc+ for big oak.

But disagree with the other part. Going from an 029 to any pro 60cc class saw is going to be a world of difference. The 029, for its CC's and weight, is a slow cutting saw

Heck, you will see a world of difference going from a 56cc 029/290 to a 50cc 261! Yes, the 029/290 is that bad.
 
   / I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. 24 inch bar. #60  
There are 3 brands the pros use:
Stihl,Husky, Dolmar.

Many die-hard Husky guys have been reluctantly switching to Stihl, due to the poor reliability of the newer Huskys.

There is no comparison between how a pro saw runs and how a homeowner saw runs. None.

Big bars on little saws should only be an occasional use thing, or not at all.

A sharp chain is most important.

To the Op: a new, pro 60cc saw is a big upgrade from your 029, but still not a "big saw". A 70cc saw would be a good compromise for you. A 372xp is a good saw. A 562 is not. Nor is a 576. There are many, many disappointed pro owners of the newest model Huskys. You couldn't give me one.....probably. When Husky starts building durable saws again, the pros will come back...eventually, as they are sweet-feeling and running saws...until they break. I am only saying this because many people have no idea of the pain these new(er) model huskys have caused for many folks who make their living with chainsaws. It annoys me when I see a guy with his brand-new saw with the crank gone, or the cylinder scored, or it won't start, or whatever. POS saws. Over and over again have I seen these saws have problems ever since they came on the market. Husky should get their sh** together, as they have been on the market for what? 4 years or so?? I saw 2 sad faced sawhands just a couple of months ago. And many more before them. Many. So don't tell me how great these POS saws are. I know better and I just get sick of hearing about how great a 562 or 576 is. Try running one full time. In the winter. In the heat of summer. At altitude. Husky does still make a few decent saws. The fancy look'in ones aren't them. Sorry for the rant, but it's truth.

I have an ms362. It wears an 18" bar. I downsized from the stock 20". I am in softwood country.

I have a Dolmar 420. Nice, nice little saw. It wears a 14", I think. It would be better with a shorter bar probably.

My old 49cc Jonsered is a wicked little saw. It is the only one that came stock with an appropriate sized bar.

If you can bury the bar in the wood without the saw slowing down, then it is safe and an appropriate bar for the saw, imo.

To bury a 24" bar, you really need 80cc. 60cc no way. 70cc barely.

The best setup for most is a 40-50cc saw and a 70-80cc saw. Not really my setup, but I work in small softwood and can make-do with a 60cc as my big saw, which is really at the very bottom end of "big saws".

There are many here who know what they are talking about and many who don't......

Jmho
 
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