Newbie with new mods to his 2210d!!

[careyo63]

Fredricks will give it to you. Top Bracket. It allows the Tiller to swing Out away from the rear wheels and then up. And the correct PTO drive shaft also

 

[winston1]

The Rs1300 (51") is all my 2002d could handle. I think a 5 footer would be a little large for a 2210. The 1400 is about 55". I do till full depth.

 

[careyo63]

The 2002D apparently couldn't handle much He sold it!!!

 

[Jtullis13]

Lol thanks for the input. I will call Fredricks and see what they have. What is a fair price for a 4.5 or 5ft one from there? So anyone else think a 5ft would be ok?

 

[bmaverick]

Lol thanks for the input. I will call Fredricks and see what they have. What is a fair price for a 4.5 or 5ft one from there? So anyone else think a 5ft would be ok?

I'm only 2-1/2 hr drive down I-65 from Fredricks. They post refurbished/restored OE Yanmar tillers from $850 to $1000 on Craigslist in Nashville and around the region. I've seen a Yanmar tiller up close once. It looked beefy like the TSC CountyLine brand, but not as bulky.

There are half a dozen Yanmar tillers in action on Youtube.


BTW, in your first image showing the back of the tractor, those chain keepers (anti-swap chains) for the lower arms will come apart and fall off in some field to be lost for good. I know, it happened to me. :duh: So, get some locking washers and tighten down the nut on the loop on each arm.

 

[Jtullis13]

Thanks Bmaverick. I will do that. Also thanks for the info on the tillers. I was curious about how they compared to the TSC county line ones. Just out of curiosity would a different brand of triller need that extra top link attachment that Fredrick's have, or just work with a standard top link bar? I'm asking because I found a nice local 5ft tiller for $650 I can get.

 

[Jtullis13]

Thanks for the pic Careyo63

 

[careyo63]

Hard to say it just depends on how it's set up. The top link bracket is set up to push the tiller out and up to were a top link would basically just go up and you may run into a problem. So many variables with different brands. The 650$ could end up costing 850$ having to buy longer ams longer/shorter Dr.shaft or even both. Then the tiller itself may have problems or going to have problems with worn out parts,tines Etc.. I would start with giving Fredricks a call and go from there. At least your know that it will work and is setup for your tractor properly. I had problems getting mine setup Yup!! gave me the wrong drive shaft LOL.. So at least you know they will stand behind it and make sure you get or have everything you need.

 

[California]

As Carey said RS 1400 (55 inch) was made for YM2000. It says so on its setup decal. So your 2210 is well matched to it. (Same displacement and nearly identical engine, the increased rated hp may be just an ability to run at higher rpm).

A US tiller has more aggressive tines so I suspect it loads the tractor harder. Still, if you found a nice 5 ft tiller locally for $650 that's the way I would go. It will be built to conventional 3-point dimensions so it doesn't need that special top link. The purpose for that device is to make the top of a RS tiller rotate away from hitting the tires as you lift it but this shouldn't be an issue with a 'standard' tiller.

I'm turning a RS1400 with my YM186D, 18 engine hp. (and 15 pto hp which is why its Japanese twin is named YM1510D). (photo). It's all the tiller that little tractor wants but this illustrates that your 2210 at near 50% more hp should run a 60 inch tiller fine.

RS1400 is a nice tiller but if you can't find one locally then that $650 tiller is an equally good choice.

Also Winston mentioned changing the fluid upon buying a used tiller. Particularly for the Japanese ones, they were run underwater for their first lifetime. The decent importer where I got mine insisted there was no need to replace fluid but I did anyway. It was milky, ie homogenized water/oil. Subsequent years I have opened the bottom drain before attaching it that season and have always gotten some water out. I don't know if this is residual water from 20 years ago or recent condensation. I suggest make this annual check for water.

And - if you do find a used Yanmar tiller be sure to replace the offside (non-geared side) bearing at the end of the tine axle. A dealer here said he saw import tillers destroyed by neglecting that bearing. He advised replacing it with the same spec sealed bearing.

 

[careyo63]

Oh! and how could I forget this. :laughing: