New XR4155HC on its way!
- Thread starter Cataclysm
- Start date
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Here's another update for anyone researching LS Tractors.
About 37 hrs on the tractor starting out this morning. I hooked up the 8' flail and continued reclaiming some over grown pasture land. Mostly 2' dense old grass with some non woody weeds.
I warmed up the tractor, engaged the pto and then spooled up to pto speed which is about 2400rpm on this machine. This old Alamo flail runs pretty smooth, just a hint of vibration at pto speed.
I ran it about 30 minutes then shut down to check the bearings. At the initial grease job some of the bearings wouldn't take grease.
Sure enough the passenger side flail drum bearing was running too warm. I could still just hold my bare hand on it. Everything else was still cold. I grabbed the grease gun and the bearing easily took grease. Yeah!! 10 pumps and it was squishing out.
Back in the saddle! I flailed for about 3 hrs straight listening to Pandora with no interruptions!! Life is good!!!!!
The LS XR4155HC Purred along easily handling the dense grass and weeds. I tried some steep climbs and side hills while flailing. I was able to climb silly steep hills while flailing in 2nd using the front assist.
About 37 hrs on the tractor starting out this morning. I hooked up the 8' flail and continued reclaiming some over grown pasture land. Mostly 2' dense old grass with some non woody weeds.
I warmed up the tractor, engaged the pto and then spooled up to pto speed which is about 2400rpm on this machine. This old Alamo flail runs pretty smooth, just a hint of vibration at pto speed.
I ran it about 30 minutes then shut down to check the bearings. At the initial grease job some of the bearings wouldn't take grease.
Sure enough the passenger side flail drum bearing was running too warm. I could still just hold my bare hand on it. Everything else was still cold. I grabbed the grease gun and the bearing easily took grease. Yeah!! 10 pumps and it was squishing out.
Back in the saddle! I flailed for about 3 hrs straight listening to Pandora with no interruptions!! Life is good!!!!!
The LS XR4155HC Purred along easily handling the dense grass and weeds. I tried some steep climbs and side hills while flailing. I was able to climb silly steep hills while flailing in 2nd using the front assist.
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Ok, no problem! I will grab some shots in the am and post them up. I guess its worth while to see the valve and hose orientation since I changed it from how it was sent.Sorry, missed the recent posts. I don't believe any of this was done. How can I, I don't see any pictures.
Back on the flail I hit some modest side slope and felt completely stable. To be clear I always err on the side of caution while on side slopes.
We have recently had some rain. I hit a couple of real soggy spots. Those big fat R4's stayed right on top and the flail tail roller pressed them right out. This tractor apparently has low ground pressure since it just floats along on the boggy grass.
I probably would still be there flailing but life always catches me when Im having fun.
Tomorrow maybe I can hit that field with the disc, it's pretty rough from years of gopher mounds.
We have recently had some rain. I hit a couple of real soggy spots. Those big fat R4's stayed right on top and the flail tail roller pressed them right out. This tractor apparently has low ground pressure since it just floats along on the boggy grass.
I probably would still be there flailing but life always catches me when Im having fun.
Tomorrow maybe I can hit that field with the disc, it's pretty rough from years of gopher mounds.
I have to give credit for the Sherwin Williams paint code listed in my thread to rigustafson (thanks Rick!) here on the forum. I saw the paint code on one of his posts and replicated it. It matches perfectly to my eyes.
Pic's of the W.R. Long 3rd function kit installed.
Here's the re-orientated valve mounted up. Longer bolts to add the mount behind the SMV sign are required.
Mind the hoses, they will lay just right to be pinched between the cab and lift arm. The lift arm all the way has less than 1/2" clearance with the cab. The heavy zips will be replaced with some good hose keepers. I saw some that are used for air hoses on big rigs that look promising or I'll fab up something.
And the new Fancy Dan grip complete with rocker switch. There is a gap between the new grip and rubber boot. I am thinking about just cutting off the metal rod and letting the grip come down to meet the boot.
This mount is very heavy and addresses the positioning of the couplers. You will again need longer bolts to properly mount this up. Fastenal has some nice bolts in stainless that worked great!
Here's the routing between the cab and loader uprights. The couplers will fall back and rattle on the glass if your not careful about securing them.
Here's the loader valve hook up to the PB port. Its the unpainted lower left one for those not familiar.
All in all it was hassle free. Other than the longer bolts and a few zip ties everything is included in the kit. I spent a lot of time trying different hose routings until I found the ones I liked.
Here's the re-orientated valve mounted up. Longer bolts to add the mount behind the SMV sign are required.
Mind the hoses, they will lay just right to be pinched between the cab and lift arm. The lift arm all the way has less than 1/2" clearance with the cab. The heavy zips will be replaced with some good hose keepers. I saw some that are used for air hoses on big rigs that look promising or I'll fab up something.
And the new Fancy Dan grip complete with rocker switch. There is a gap between the new grip and rubber boot. I am thinking about just cutting off the metal rod and letting the grip come down to meet the boot.
This mount is very heavy and addresses the positioning of the couplers. You will again need longer bolts to properly mount this up. Fastenal has some nice bolts in stainless that worked great!
Here's the routing between the cab and loader uprights. The couplers will fall back and rattle on the glass if your not careful about securing them.
Here's the loader valve hook up to the PB port. Its the unpainted lower left one for those not familiar.
All in all it was hassle free. Other than the longer bolts and a few zip ties everything is included in the kit. I spent a lot of time trying different hose routings until I found the ones I liked.
Today I was able to get some great seat time pulling a 6' disc to break up some gopher mounds and horse apples plus a little areation for the roots.
I loaded the disc heavy so it would cut up the grass roots better. The 4155 had no trouble pulling the disc in 2nd. I tried 2WD but it would spin too much so I hit the front assist and off it went.
I used the cruise control quite a bit today. I can see how it would be tough to keep pushing on the HST pedal for ground enguaging work.
I also learned a use for the RPM controller. I first set the RPM controller at PTO speed (about 2400rpm). Then flipped it off. Then pulled the throttle down to about 2000rpm. I started discing in 2nd gear at the throttle RPM of 2000rpm. Once I was going along smoothly I set the cruise control and took my foot off the pedal. Then I flipped the RPM controller on which spooled the motor to PTO speed.
When I came to the end of the row I would switch off the RPM controller which would slow me down. Then I could pull the disc up and make a nice easy turn without slamming the disc around to the next row. Then drop the disc and flip the RPM back on to PTO speed.
Im not sure if thats what the RPM controller is for but it sure worked out great to make easy, controlled turns.
I loaded the disc heavy so it would cut up the grass roots better. The 4155 had no trouble pulling the disc in 2nd. I tried 2WD but it would spin too much so I hit the front assist and off it went.
I used the cruise control quite a bit today. I can see how it would be tough to keep pushing on the HST pedal for ground enguaging work.
I also learned a use for the RPM controller. I first set the RPM controller at PTO speed (about 2400rpm). Then flipped it off. Then pulled the throttle down to about 2000rpm. I started discing in 2nd gear at the throttle RPM of 2000rpm. Once I was going along smoothly I set the cruise control and took my foot off the pedal. Then I flipped the RPM controller on which spooled the motor to PTO speed.
When I came to the end of the row I would switch off the RPM controller which would slow me down. Then I could pull the disc up and make a nice easy turn without slamming the disc around to the next row. Then drop the disc and flip the RPM back on to PTO speed.
Im not sure if thats what the RPM controller is for but it sure worked out great to make easy, controlled turns.
Coming up on 50hr service. Anyone have an engine oil filter cross reference for the 4100 series?
Dealer has them on order but Id like to do it this weekend when I have time to carefully go over the tractor.
Thanks!
Dealer has them on order but Id like to do it this weekend when I have time to carefully go over the tractor.
Thanks!
Out on the tractor all day today. Chilly n windy here. Loading round bale remnants to start grass on a yard. It was warm in the cab and no hay blowing all over me. Sure was nice!!
Oh and I used the draft control again while ripping. Works perfect to keep from bitting too deep and spinning the tires!
Oh and I used the draft control again while ripping. Works perfect to keep from bitting too deep and spinning the tires!
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Scotron
New member
Really like this post!!
Underdog57
Veteran Member
If you don't mind; explain to me how to use the draft control. I don't know where to position that lever!
I use a landscape rake a lot and was hoping the draft control would help me with controlling how deep the rake digs in. I know you have to flop over the "do hickey" on the top link, but I don't know where to position the lever next to the seat. I have tried different positions and haven't noticed any difference.
I have a 2013 R4041H
Thanks
Ok, I can explain how to use the draft control.
Once you flip the doo hickey, drop your implement into the ground, then adjust the draft control lever forward for deeper or rearward for shallower.
When plowing, or in my case, using the rippers, draft control keeps you from digging in too deep. It also keeps you digging in deep enough.
Im using 6 rippers in fairly hard soil that has a good covering of bermuda grass. That seems to just be enoigh force to make the draft control work.
So in your case I dont think the rake has enough force to make the draft regulator work.
Once you flip the doo hickey, drop your implement into the ground, then adjust the draft control lever forward for deeper or rearward for shallower.
When plowing, or in my case, using the rippers, draft control keeps you from digging in too deep. It also keeps you digging in deep enough.
Im using 6 rippers in fairly hard soil that has a good covering of bermuda grass. That seems to just be enoigh force to make the draft control work.
So in your case I dont think the rake has enough force to make the draft regulator work.
Underdog57
Veteran Member
Ok thanks, I've been running it forward all the way, I think I'll try pulling the lever back and see what happens. :confused3:
Thats what Id do. Drop your implement and pull the draft control all the way back. Then as your driving forward slowly move the lever forward untill you have the right depth.
If there is no change then you just dont have enough force from the implement to get it to work.
Drop the rippers on a box blade and that will make it work so you can see and feel whats going on.
If there is no change then you just dont have enough force from the implement to get it to work.
Drop the rippers on a box blade and that will make it work so you can see and feel whats going on.
Got in a little seat time this weekend! Here I'm building a campfire/cook out spot at a pond. I had previously cleared out some trees and needed to level out the spot. I am amazed at how much that NH/Modern Ag BB will cut. First BB I've had with a tailgate. You can see the waves in the dirt where I'm still getting used to how much it will cut.
Here's a rotary cutter I scored off CL Sunday night for $700 cash. Its a 7' Montana built by King Kutter. I had an extra cylinder laying about so I picked up some hose and fittings and put it on the tail wheels. It will raise the deck up about a foot off the ground or pick the wheels up off the ground about 18". Picking the wheels up with work great when trailering because this thing hangs off the trailer a couple of feet.
Now that the cylinder is on I am considering turning it into a pull type just to save wear and tear on my 3 point. Thoughts?
I turned it over and sharpened the blades while I was at it. Now all I need is to repair or replace the tractor side yoke. Its one of the slip ring types and its missing the slip ring, spring, bearings and retainer. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try it out this weekend.
Now that the cylinder is on I am considering turning it into a pull type just to save wear and tear on my 3 point. Thoughts?
I turned it over and sharpened the blades while I was at it. Now all I need is to repair or replace the tractor side yoke. Its one of the slip ring types and its missing the slip ring, spring, bearings and retainer. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try it out this weekend.
Supraman0614
Silver Member
I found an Italian mfr that had a cross but I couldn't confirm that. My dealer had no luck either. I contacted Wix and they were going to buy an LS filter to do the cross research/testing. They told me 8-10 weeks at that time, which will be next week. I ended up getting one from the dealer for $18 or so. I have been looking for a fuel filter too. I like to keep them changed at least once a year. The XR41 series are too new to have a lot of aftermarket support yet. I will report in to the filter sticky on the LS forum homepage when I get the Wix info back.
Thats in line with mine.
