Busted zerk and extractor...what next?

[DuckSlayer1017]

If you have a dremel tool and it's not sheared off too deep you can cut a channel into the sheared off remains and then take a flat head screwdriver to back it out with.

E.

+1 on Everhard's idea. Also, like Moss said a chisel and hammer. However, I've always used a pointed punch instead of a chisel. It may bite better because there isn't a lot of surface area to work with.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I've never used an extractor in a drill only by hand. Gives a much better feel of if it's going to work, spin in the hole or break off.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've never used an extractor in a drill only by hand. Gives a much better feel of if it's going to work, spin in the hole or break off.

Yeah, my first though was "sheet, I shouldn't have used the electric drill", but I then looked at the instructions and they specified using an electric drill. The shaft of the extractor was 1/4" hex so it seemed natural to use the drill.

In any case, the bit snapped so quickly I think I could have done it easily with a socket wrench too. Maybe even with a screwdriver hex receiver.

 

[tjkubota93]

I think you are looking for a small cape chisel. Amazon has 3/16" and 1/8" sizes made by proto.

 

[IslandTractor]

I think you are looking for a small cape chisel. Amazon has 3/16" and 1/8" sizes made by proto.

thanks. Does this look right? : Mayhew Pro 1 1/8-Inch Reg Cape Chisel - Metalwork Chisels - Amazon.com

 

[tjkubota93]

thanks. Does this look right? : Mayhew Pro 14 1/8-Inch Reg Cape Chisel - Metalwork Chisels - Amazon.com

That's the one I would use. No problem.

Use a tap handle, not a drill!

Several years ago, I got one out with a torch. It was on a bigger machine that used a zerk with small pipe threads. The metal of the zerk heats at a different rate than the part it is screwed into. When it glows a little you hit the O2. Then clean the remainder out with a chisel. I don't know how much of it went into the joint as slag to tear up the pin and bore later.

 

[bcp]

I've never had much luck with screw extractors on a stuck-broken bolt or fitting. On impact-broken fittings, they work about half the time. I've use both spiral and square ones. Square were a little better. I think the problem with screw extractors is the tapered shape just wedges the fitting tighter.

Since they have become commonly available, I've had better luck tapping a Torx bit into the hole. Straight sides and 6 driving edges.

For a small punch, I grind a chisel tip on a pin punch, then grind it flat when I'm done, if it isn't a spare. Another good source is a small nail set reground to chisel tip.

I now have some left-handed drill bits but haven't tried them yet.

Bruce

 

[tjkubota93]

I've never had much luck with screw extractors on a stuck-broken bolt or fitting. On impact-broken fittings, they work about half the time. I've use both spiral and square ones. Square were a little better. I think the problem with screw extractors is the tapered shape just wedges the fitting tighter.

Since they have become commonly available, I've had better luck tapping a Torx bit into the hole. Straight sides and 6 driving edges.

For a small punch, I grind a chisel tip on a pin punch, then grind it flat when I'm done, if it isn't a spare.

I now have some left-handed drill bits but haven't tried them yet.

Bruce

LH drill bits are the business!

 

[Hoochy]

+1 on bcp's Torx bit suggestion. It worked great for me with a zerk fitting on my Alamo mower and a broken distributor bolt on the 8N.:thumbsup:

 

[IslandTractor]

+1 on bcp's Torx bit suggestion. It worked great for me with a zerk fitting on my Alamo mower and a broken distributor bolt on the 8N.:thumbsup:

I'll try that in the future but currently, with a broken extractor in the grease channel, there is no place to jamb a torx tip and as that tip is much harder than the zerk, I cannot drill it out without a vice and drill press.