Busted zerk and extractor...what next?

[IslandTractor]

A rock fell on the foot of my BH stabilizer and sheared off the zerk for the pivot foot. I figured no big deal and got out my made in USA screw extractor set, found that the #1 size extractor fit nicely into the grease channel and used my drill to reverse out the decapitated zerk. One millisecond later the screw extractor sheared off flush with the zerk carcass. I then tried to drill out a slightly larger hole to put in the next size extractor but the remains of the broken extractor is so much harder than the zerk body that my drill keeps sliding off center. Not easy to remove the whole stabilizer cylinder to use a solid clamp and drill press.

What are my options??

 

[Egon]

Drill and thread a new hole??

Can you install a new pin that has the zerk on the end or make one ???

 

[MossRoad]

Small chisel and hammer and tap out the zerk counter clockwise. No fun, but works.

 

[IslandTractor]

Small chisel and hammer and tap out the zerk counter clockwise. No fun, but works.

That sounds a bit easier than Egon's suggestion as I won't need to pull the pin. I'll give it a try next weekend after a penetrating oil soak.

Drill and tap new zerk hole will be the next move.

I'll explore getting a predrilled pin with zerk on the end. I don't have the skill or machinery to make one myself.

Thanks to you both.

 

[brasco426]

Small chisel and hammer and tap out the zerk counter clockwise. No fun, but works.

+1 on Mossroads suggestion. I remove a lot of old rusty hardware out of old boilers that way.

 

[flyerdan]

I'd put a nut (1/4-20 for a small zerk) over the broken bits, blast it with a burst from a mig welder to fill the center and hope that the heat loosened things enough that it can be turned out with a wrench.

 

[IslandTractor]

I'd put a nut (1/4-20 for a small zerk) over the broken bits, blast it with a burst from a mig welder to fill the center and hope that the heat loosened things enough that it can be turned out with a wrench.

Good idea. I'll have to remember to disconnect the battery as the BH is mounted. Probably will give MossRoad's suggestion a try first if I can locate a small metal working chisel.

 

[IslandTractor]

Anyone know who sells small metal working chisels? I have a set of punches and some large cold chisels but cannot find a very narrow (1/8" or so) metal working chisel on Amazon, even in a set.

 

[dickfoster]

I'd put a nut (1/4-20 for a small zerk) over the broken bits, blast it with a burst from a mig welder to fill the center and hope that the heat loosened things enough that it can be turned out with a wrench.

I've done this to remove hardened studs that were busted off flush. Lay a nut centered over the stub, weld down in the center of the nut then wrench out the broken bit. The heat from welding helps loosen things up too.

 

[Everhard]

If you have a dremel tool and it's not sheared off too deep you can cut a channel into the sheared off remains and then take a flat head screwdriver to back it out with.

E.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

If you have a dremel tool and it's not sheared off too deep you can cut a channel into the sheared off remains and then take a flat head screwdriver to back it out with.

E.

+1 on Everhard's idea. Also, like Moss said a chisel and hammer. However, I've always used a pointed punch instead of a chisel. It may bite better because there isn't a lot of surface area to work with.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I've never used an extractor in a drill only by hand. Gives a much better feel of if it's going to work, spin in the hole or break off.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've never used an extractor in a drill only by hand. Gives a much better feel of if it's going to work, spin in the hole or break off.

Yeah, my first though was "sheet, I shouldn't have used the electric drill", but I then looked at the instructions and they specified using an electric drill. The shaft of the extractor was 1/4" hex so it seemed natural to use the drill.

In any case, the bit snapped so quickly I think I could have done it easily with a socket wrench too. Maybe even with a screwdriver hex receiver.

 

[tjkubota93]

I think you are looking for a small cape chisel. Amazon has 3/16" and 1/8" sizes made by proto.

 

[IslandTractor]

I think you are looking for a small cape chisel. Amazon has 3/16" and 1/8" sizes made by proto.

thanks. Does this look right? : Mayhew Pro 1 1/8-Inch Reg Cape Chisel - Metalwork Chisels - Amazon.com

 

[tjkubota93]

thanks. Does this look right? : Mayhew Pro 14 1/8-Inch Reg Cape Chisel - Metalwork Chisels - Amazon.com

That's the one I would use. No problem.

Use a tap handle, not a drill!

Several years ago, I got one out with a torch. It was on a bigger machine that used a zerk with small pipe threads. The metal of the zerk heats at a different rate than the part it is screwed into. When it glows a little you hit the O2. Then clean the remainder out with a chisel. I don't know how much of it went into the joint as slag to tear up the pin and bore later.

 

[bcp]

I've never had much luck with screw extractors on a stuck-broken bolt or fitting. On impact-broken fittings, they work about half the time. I've use both spiral and square ones. Square were a little better. I think the problem with screw extractors is the tapered shape just wedges the fitting tighter.

Since they have become commonly available, I've had better luck tapping a Torx bit into the hole. Straight sides and 6 driving edges.

For a small punch, I grind a chisel tip on a pin punch, then grind it flat when I'm done, if it isn't a spare. Another good source is a small nail set reground to chisel tip.

I now have some left-handed drill bits but haven't tried them yet.

Bruce

 

[tjkubota93]

I've never had much luck with screw extractors on a stuck-broken bolt or fitting. On impact-broken fittings, they work about half the time. I've use both spiral and square ones. Square were a little better. I think the problem with screw extractors is the tapered shape just wedges the fitting tighter.

Since they have become commonly available, I've had better luck tapping a Torx bit into the hole. Straight sides and 6 driving edges.

For a small punch, I grind a chisel tip on a pin punch, then grind it flat when I'm done, if it isn't a spare.

I now have some left-handed drill bits but haven't tried them yet.

Bruce

LH drill bits are the business!

 

[Hoochy]

+1 on bcp's Torx bit suggestion. It worked great for me with a zerk fitting on my Alamo mower and a broken distributor bolt on the 8N.:thumbsup:

 

[IslandTractor]

+1 on bcp's Torx bit suggestion. It worked great for me with a zerk fitting on my Alamo mower and a broken distributor bolt on the 8N.:thumbsup:

I'll try that in the future but currently, with a broken extractor in the grease channel, there is no place to jamb a torx tip and as that tip is much harder than the zerk, I cannot drill it out without a vice and drill press.