rear wheel not touching ground

[ScrapGuy]

Hi everyone,

My name is Scrapy from Alabama.
I need you all help in telling me how to get my bush hog to not drag the ground in the front and to get the rear wheel to roll as it should.

I just bought this tractor and bush hog this past March but, this is second time using it.
I can connect it to bush hog but when I try to cut over grown weeds it leaves drag marks on the ground.
The owners manual shows the correct setup(but no directions to do it by) is for the bush hog to be somewhat level and rear tire rolling and turning perfectly.
I've raised the lower arms, turned the top link until it's almost out of thread. with all that did it's either dragging the ground in the front or the back and rear wheel wildly flopping.I'm just at wits end. It makes me want to drink a "warm" Budweiser.
If anyone ccan help me I certainly will appreciate it..

Scrapy.

 

[Leejohn]

Try taking the top link off then raise the mower up with the 3pt until it is level. Then run and get a longer top link or some people use a chain for top link with a bush hog on rolling ground.

 

[bcp]

You may need to make or buy some check chains to keep the lower links at a set height. They go from the front of the top link to the rear of the lower links.

Chain Limiter Kit

www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Limiter-Chains.pdf

Adjust to get the height you want for the front of the cutter and it will stay there and not creep down. Then set the tail wheel height for the rear of the cutter. And don't forget that you need some kind of a flexible section somewhere between the rear of the top link and the rear of the cutter so you can go over uneven ground.

Bruce

 

[jeff9366]

The owners manual shows the correct setup(but no directions to do it by) is for the bush hog to be somewhat level and rear tire rolling and turning perfectly.
I've raised the lower arms, shortened the top link until it's almost out of thread. with all that did it's either dragging the ground in the front or the back and rear wheel wildly flopping. I'm just at wits end.

Correctly adjusted, a Rotary Cutter should only CUT at the front, then EXHAUST clippings at the rear.

Adjust the front of the Rotary Cutter to approximate height you want material mowed, using hydraulic control.

Shortening the Top Link will raise the rear of EVERY implement you mount on the Three Point Hitch. Lengthening the Top Link lowers the rear of every implement you mount on the Three Point Hitch.

The tail wheel should contact the ground when mowing. It the tail wheel is in the air, your tractor hydraulics take a beating with every bounce of the mower. When you LENGTHEN the Top Link it lowers the rear of the Rotary Cutter, lowering the tail wheel.

The rear of the Rotary Cutter should be adjusted HIGHER than front 1" to 4" (4" when mowing longer grass), so the blades are NOT cutting at the rear and there is room for clippings to be freely exhausted out the rear.

If you have the implement too flat, it will try to cut at front and rear, mulching under the deck, with the blades moving too slowly. This is NOT how a Rotary Cutter is designed to operate.

You have to play with both the hydraulic lever controlling the Lower Links and the manual Top Link until the deck is adjusted correctly. Adjust one, then the other.

Use the (right) Lifting Rod, attached to the Lower Link on the right side, to adjust the mower level, left to right. If you raise the right side, obviously the left side will be lower, so adjustment is only necessary on one side, the right.

It is difficult to find a uniformly flat place to make adjustments in the field. Make adjustments, then move the tractor and mower to another flat spot to check, then refine adjustments as necessary.

Your T-B-N profile is woefully incomplete. Look at the profiles of your respondents, and learn.

What does "2014 MF" tell us about your tractor? Nothing useful. If we knew your Massey Ferguson model we could give more precise suggestions on how to adjust your Three Point Hitch. We need to know if your MF has POSTION CONTROL and DRAFT CONTROL (which should be locked out) as part of its hydraulic system.

What does "al" tell us about your location? Not much.

What make, model and width Rotary Cutter do you have? What Owner's Manual are your reading? Manual for TRACTOR, or manual for IMPLEMENT?

Take time to create posts with complete information. Punctuate. I grade your first post as a 'D'.


VIDEO: adjusting bush hog / rotary cutter - YouTube

LINK: Google

 

[newbury]

Hi everyone,

My name is Scrapy from Alabama.
I need you all help in telling me how to get my bush hog to not drag the ground in the front and to get the rear wheel to roll as it should.

I just bought this tractor and bush hog this past March but, this is second time using it.
I can connect it to bush hog but when I try to cut over grown weeds it leaves drag marks on the ground.
The owners manual shows the correct setup(but no directions to do it by) is for the bush hog to be somewhat level and rear tire rolling and turning perfectly.
I've raised the lower arms, turned the top link until it's almost out of thread. with all that did it's either dragging the ground in the front or the back and rear wheel wildly flopping.I'm just at wits end. It makes me want to drink a "warm" Budweiser.
If anyone ccan help me I certainly will appreciate it..

Scrapy.

Welcome aboard Scrapy. Nobody has mentioned it yet but there is often also some variation in where your top link is hooked to the tractor. My M4700 has 3 holes to use. I generally use the middle.
For setup (when I've adjusted the toplink for some other implement) I park on the level, lower the hog so the rear is a bit above ground, get two 4x4 chunk's of wood, put them under the rear corners, lower the hog all the way.
Then I adjust away so the front touches while the rear rests on the blocks.

<snip>
Your T-B-N profile is woefully incomplete. Look at the profiles of your respondents, and learn.

What does "2014 MF" tell us about your tractor? Nothing useful. If we knew your Massey Ferguson model we could give more precise suggestions on how to adjust your Three Point Hitch. We need to know if your MF has POSTION CONTROL and DRAFT CONTROL (which should be locked out) as part of its hydraulic system.

What does "al" tell us about your location? Not much.

What make, model and width Rotary Cutter do you have? What Owner's Manual are your reading? Manual for TRACTOR, or manual for IMPLEMENT?

Take time to create posts with complete information. Punctuate. I grade your first post as a 'D'.<snip>

C'mon jeff cut him some slack - unless your point is to drive off all newbies.

In case you missed it jeff "al" probably refers to Alabama, as in

My name is Scrapy from Alabama.

. Lot's of posters don't even identify what continent they are on.

At least he uses sentence structure and punctuation rather than one long run on paragraph.

 

[Ivan49]

Check your tail wheel for adjustments. On my bush hog it had several different adjustments to raise or lower the tail wheel. If your tail wheel is to high you won't be able to get the rear of the brush hog up so it clears the ground. When I use mine it is set so it just clears the ground by about 4 inches in the back. Another thing is does your brush hog have a solid brace going from you hookup for the 3 point back to the back of the brush hog deck. I have a bushhog squeler and it has a chain instead of a slid brack going back which allows it to float

 

[RalphVa]

Sounds as though you need a longer top link. Tractor Supply has different lengths.

Does your tractor have different holes to put the 3ph lift pins in? My JD 2025R has about 9 different holes to put the 3ph lift pins in. These will change the geometry as well.

OR, you could have your bush hole lift pins in the wrong location. This was the case when they delivered mine with my JD 4010 about 11 or so years ago. If they can be lowered, this may correct the problem. Most bush hogs likely have 2 locations to place the pins.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

One more thing. You do not want the top link to be longer than the lift arms on the 3ph. Otherwise, this geometry will drive the tail wheel into the ground, like was the case on my JD 4010 and LX4 when delivered to me.

Very likely, your bush hog has lower lift pin holes. Move the pins down to these.

Ralph

 

[TripleR]

Good information so far, but as mentioned, it would be a bit easier to know the brand and model of the tractor and cutter as there is such a variety attachment types, tail wheel assemblies. I own several sizes and brands including Land Pride, Woods, King Cutter etc. and someone posted a question on a Land Pride that had many LP owners confused due to the different swinging top bracket. A picture would be even better.

If you don't have a manual, many brands offer an online download.

Essentially leading edge 1" or so lower than the back, level side to side and tail wheel carrying the load on the rear as mentioned.

May or may not help: Getting a Brush Hog Ready to Use - YouTube

I had no trouble understanding your post and don't grade anyone's posts.

 

[ScrapGuy]

Thanks Newbury for the welcome....I took Jeff9366 criticism as constructive, which always make a man a better man.
Jeff I did update my information on my profile. I should have mentioned those particulars so it would be familiar.
I am using a 6 foot Kodiak rotary cutter Standard duty series. One the top-link connection there is only one place to connect, no upper or lower holes. Jeff9366, when you mentioned the right side rod, are you referring to the right side lower arm of the 3point hitch setup. Left side lower arm, top-link and then right side lower arm??? Rod has me confused.
Also to make sure I understand you correctly on the ONE side adjusting: adjust the RIGHT side arm and not the left, this should somewhat level the cutters deck. I am a new equipment owner and operator so this is all a little bit new to me but, I will get it together. I was reading the cutter's manual showing the correct positioning of the deck and wheel, but no steps guiding you to accomplish that setup.

Again thanks to all of you who offered your help.

Scrapy

 

[TripleR]

See if this helps: "How To" Operate and Drive a Tractor: Part 1 - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

Jeff9366, when you mentioned the right side rod, are you referring to the right side lower arm of the 3point hitch setup. Left side lower arm, top-link and then right side lower arm??? Rod has me confused.
Also to make sure I understand you correctly on the ONE side adjusting: adjust the RIGHT side arm and not the left, this should somewhat level the cutters deck.

The Lower Links attach the tractor to your Rotary Cutter. Lower Links are moved up and down hydraulically, through attached Lifting Rods, one solid Lifting Rod for the left Lower Link, one screw-adjustable Lifting Rod for the right Lower Link. In the center of the right Lifting Rod is a screw adjuster, used to level implements.

If you shorten the Right Lifting Rod screw adjuster, the implement will rise on the right, lower on the left.

If you lengthen the Right Lifting Road screw adjuster, the implement will descend on the right, and either remain the same or rise on the left.

Therefore, only one adjustable Lifting Rod is necessary to level implements, not two.

Screw adjuster is always on the right Lifting Rod.

Several of the U-Tube videos demonstrate how the Right Lifting Rod levels Rotary Cutters and all other mounted implements.

GRAPHIC: Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting




Followup from Post #4: AFTER LENGTHENING YOUR TOP LINK, IS THE ROTARY CUTTER TAIL WHEEL TOUCHING THE GROUND?

 

[ScrapGuy]

TripleR the video was informative, now I know how the draft lever works when you are going to be plowing up land.

Jeff9366 Now I understand the right side arm function. As of this posting I have not been out to pasture and barn to try redoing the connection. I will post and let you know if I got the rear wheel to touch ground as it should.

Scrapy

 

[newbury]

TripleR the video was informative, now I know how the draft lever works when you are going to be plowing up land.

Jeff9366 Now I understand the right side arm function. As of this posting I have not been out to pasture and barn to try redoing the connection. I will post and let you know if I got the rear wheel to touch ground as it should.

Scrapy

If you can please post pictures. Often we can edit your pics by drawing little circles and pointers on them and reposting them so everyone can see which widget we are talking about.

Plus we like pictures.

 

[jeff9366]

Jeff9366 Now I understand the right side arm function. As of this posting I have not been out to pasture and barn to try redoing the connection. I will post and let you know if I got the rear wheel to touch ground as it should.

The Three Point Hitch AND ITS NOMENCLATURE, is standard on tractors all over the world. Learn the appropriate terms. Don't introduce your own "free lance" terms for Three Point Hitch components. It is NOT a side arm, it is a Lifting Rod.

 

[jeff9366]

MF2605 / Utility Tractor: TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 2605 tractor information

 

[jeff9366]

On the top-link connection there is only one place to connect, no upper or lower holes.

Look at the other end of your Top Link. Not the Rotary Cutter end, the tractor end.

Your MF2605 has Draft Control. The sensitivity of the Draft Control is changed by moving the inboard, tractor-end of the Top Link pin within a selection of paired, horizontally oriented holes on the body of your tractor, with the hole pairs 'stacked' vertically. With Draft Control there may be just two pairs of adjustment holes for the Top Link pin, or three pairs, or four pairs.

When Draft Control is locked out, these several paired holes for the inboard Top Link pin provide a small amount of additional Top Link length adjustment.


DO YOU HAVE AN OWNER'S/OPERATOR'S MANUAL FOR YOUR MF2605?

 

[jeff9366]

I am using a 6 foot Kodiak rotary cutter Standard duty series.

VIDEO: Kodiak Medium Duty Rotary Cutter Overview - YouTube


OWNER'S MANUAL: http://www.ourcoop.com/productcatalog/Main/PdfViewer.aspx?el=66280

Your Kodiak tail wheel is adjustable for height within the tail wheel mounting bracket. Tail wheel is mounted on a pivot. See photo, page 9.

 

[bigdeano]

The easiest solution to your problem is to just remove the top link. You only need it if you want to raise the whole cutter off the ground. A cable works good in place of the top link if you need to do that. On uneven ground a rigid top link can cause problems when there's a tail wheel.

 

[MESSMAKER]

You only need a top link to lift. You can mow open areas fine with no top link. A length of chain a bit longer than your top link will work fine. A longer top link will help as well. I think you should be able to find one for less than $35.