Ranch/homested powered tamper for posts?

[BHD]

as I get older,I find tamping post holes more tiring than it once was,

and have seen commercial tampers/compactors. that I have seen the electrical poles tamped with,

but there expensive, and use a large amount of air, to run,

any one seen a ranch version? some thing a small compressor could run, and not that heavy? but still tamp in posts good?

 

[Fallon]

in the same boat... Tampers seem to be over $1k new. Thought about a used hydraulic jackhammer that occasionally show up on CL for a coupe hundred. But im close enough to the end of my fencing project i havent gotten anything. Tractor hydraulics should be enough to run one not to mention more portable & avalible than a compressor.

 

[ddbackhoe]

demolition hammer or breaker? electric version? Large hammer drill with a custom attachment?
Hydraulic Hammer | eBay
Greenlee Fairmont Pavement Breaker 45 lb Class Hydraulic Jack Hammer HPB45 1 | eBay

1 1 2" SDS Rotary Hammer Drill Kit Concrete Demolition Tool 1 5HP w Bits Case | eBay

 

[newbury]

Assuming your tamping posts, not holes
http://www.rohrermfg.com/

Several threads here praising them.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/237301-has-anyone-used-rohrer-98e.html

is one.

 

[BukitCase]

I have this one

http://www.rohrermfg.com/post-drivers/99e-m-post-driver/

weighs almost 40 lbs by itself, I've used it to drive pointed 4x4's with an adapter I built - I think if I were gonna use it to tamp AROUND posts (and I may need to) I would grind a long "dog point" on a custom set screw (normally just tightens up on the post being driven) so it wouldn't mess up the threads, and wouldn't let the "tamp adapter" slip on the driver.

I have the T post adapter and a 2" square one, if you have much in the way of shop tools I'd build my own adapters except for maybe the T post one, they're just a piece of 5/8 plate with a sae tapped (3/8 or 7/16, don't recall) hole in the side for the T-handled set screw, and 2 clearance holes at the perimeter to bolt onto the air cylinder.

Works well, runs on a little oilless nail gun compressor, (check specs on their site for air consumption) should do OK on a genny with over 2500 running watts -

At 71, 40 lbs overhead is starting to get irritating so when I start my re-fence project ('bout 3000 feet) I'll probably fab a 3PH mounted "mini-jib crane" and hang one of the 2500# HF winches on it on one of my tractors so I can do more than 10 posts a day

IF you dont think you're ever gonna drive anything bigger than a T post, I think the smaller ones would do OK for tamping duty (soil/rock type dependent, of course)

HTH... Steve

 

[BHD]

I am talking about tamping the dirt around the posts, not driving posts, I have a T post driver, but building some corrals and using steel pipe, 6" pipe and digger is a 9" hole, (digging them, so I can fill them with concrete, in time, so if the steel rots off the posts will not fail), but would like a good way to tamp them (the HOLE) good when back filling them.

 

[bcp]

I believe he was suggesting the idea of the powered post driver as a tamper. For example, a T-post with a 3 inch disk welded on the end could be inserted into the driver and used as a tamper.

Bruce

 

[BukitCase]

Bruce, you're right - first paragraph after the link. I tried not to get too wordy (rare for me :=)

BHD, I don't know WHICH driver you already have, but if it will take the HEAVY T posts Bruce may have hit on a way. As soft as some T posts can be, I don't know that a lighter gauge post would hold up to that much pounding.

The Rohrer drivers have a T handle locking screw that needs to be pretty tightly screwed against the side of the post to work right, so if/when I need to drill holes and tamp AROUND posts, I will drill a hole THROUGH my "tamping adapter", make a new locking screw out of a grade 5 bolt (tougher and less brittle than Gr.8), and turn the end threads off (dog point) of that locking screw (so it can get unscrewed without messing up the female threads)

Most of the above will ONLY make sense if you are familiar with the Rohrer drivers, but if we knew WHICH T post driver you had, someone might come up with a cheap way to utilize it as a tamper... Steve

 

[BHD]

sorry I miss under stood, that is a possible working idea, Thank you,

some thing like this guy made, (his is a rock breaker) but some thing may be worth the effort and basically the cost of either the T post like suggested or buy the round adapter, (some how I missed posting the link ot the guys story)

Rohrer

 

[BHD]

this is what I came up with for the time being. or my first try, I may try the Rohrer ponder, but it is not light either, I was wanting some thing that was light and easy to move and lift up and re positon, the tamper,

so I was thinking about an air hammer, (have seen the air floor scrapers, but figured if I would put one of them in a hole with a altered end on it the dirt would kill in short order,

so I went to the shop and found a old air chisel, and some bits, one was a center punch type bit,

it nearly fit in side a 3/8" pipe, loosely, and then took a 7/16" rod and ran up in the pipe and drilled the end with a center drill so the punch would work on it, and then, cut a 1 1/2" shaft off about 1" long and drilled it so the pipe would fit in it, and then drilled holes to plug weld the rod in place, and the punch. I used 7018

I know in past experience, welding on chisels is not very successful,

so is there a way of doing it where it will hold, in about 2 mins, of use the plug weld is loose, it is entrapping the chisel, the picture with chisel end,

is there a way of welding the chisel, so it will hold,

Or should I just, turn out a regular shaft to the shape of the chisel and put in, but then I am concerned it will mushroom out and not last either,

I do not know if this will work reliability but I wanted to try.

 

[BukitCase]

I've been thru just about everything you just described, with similar results - plus I DID try the HF "long handled air scraper", sacrificed a $14 chisel and welded a short boxed in piece of 3" C-channel to the end of it, I doubt if it lasted even 2 minutes...

I also used one of the handheld air chisels to drive a couple of ground rods - only thing I found to work for that was NOT welding ANYTHING - instead, I found a scrap piece of tubing that was just a bit larger than the diameter of the ground rod, took the longest shanked chisel in the set that came with the air chisel, cut the end off square - then I put on a heavy welding glove, slid the short piece of tubing over the end of the ground rod (left about 2" sticking up above the rod for a "socket" so the air chisel would stay centered - 2 fingers holding the rod, other two holding the sleeve (left hand), right hand running the air chisel.

That actually worked - I've since used that same cut off chisel as a mini-air hammer to loosen frozen pins on stuff, works on pins up to 1-1/2" by about 12" long (see my equipment list)

The problem I've had trying what you suggest - the relatively short stroke of the air chisels does NOT have the power to overcome the inertia of something that heavy, so it's a lot like trying to bring down an African elephant with a BB gun - frustrating to you, probably irritating (if that) to the elephant...

I hear what you're saying about the Rohrer's being heavy, mine's 38 pounds (110 after using it a while ) Even their basic T post driver weighs 26, when you add a modified T post probably around 32 - Mine, at 38# plus probably at least 10# for the adapter I'd fab, is even worse.

That's why, when I get that "round tuit" I WILL build a larger version of the little "mini-jib" I did for getting stuff up on one of my "work tables" - only the new one will need about an 8 foot jib and one of the small HF 12 volt winches with remote, and a 3PH mount. The jib method will take care of the frustration of trying to move a tractor to the exact position needed next to a post (whether driving the post or tamping around it)...

This is getting a bit longer winded than anybody wants to read, I'm gonna see if the pic uploader is working this week or not - if so, here's the small jib I built. It pins on in place of the original boom and jack on the HF pickup crane. I'll answer any questions later... Steve

 

[two_bit_score]

This may be out of your price range but it is what it is:

Designed for compacting around utility line repairs and new installations prior to pouring concrete
5 3/4in. round malleable butt
Built-in lubricator and muffler
7/8in. tapered rod
Plated piston

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...tent=1540339&gclid=COakhOPjyM0CFQetaQodbJ8O_A

TBS

 

[two_bit_score]

as I get older,I find tamping post holes more tiring than it once was,

and have seen commercial tampers/compactors. that I have seen the electrical poles tamped with,

but there expensive, and use a large amount of air, to run,

any one seen a ranch version? some thing a small compressor could run, and not that heavy? but still tamp in posts good?

I have a post tamper that has a curved weight on the end made to fit between a post and the side of the hole that I just pick up and drop on top of the soil to tamp it. Works well and seems like it would be easier to use than an air or power operated tamper. Use it on corner posts mainly.


TBS

 

[BHD]

I like your jib crane and how you used the harbor freight truck hoist, for a base,

I have a larger air hammer (chipping hammer), that I tried to make a rod driver with as well, for driving in the 1/2" and 3/8" rebar electric fence posts in to frozen ground, and had mulipital pieces in short order as well. I was able to find a rod driver for the air hammer, and use that now, with it, it is a air hog, but the larger hammer drives the post so fast that even a small tanked compressor keeps up as it take time to move to the next post, I lay the hammer on the bed of the truck and slip the post in ot it and then tilt the unit up and the post in place in the ground and one short burst it is driven,

the "tamper" I made is light just a few pounds, and was concerned about the inertia of the heaver rod or extension, to tamp with, I tested it in the drive way which is well packed all ready and it would drive the head of the tamper down in the drive way about 2 to 3 inches in a few seconds,

my digger is about a 9" auger, and the posts are 6 5/8" around so there little room,

my hand tamper is a piece of 3/4 pipe with a solid shaft welded on one end and a small section of 2" on the the other end to pre compact it some.

but on these steel pipe posts I am using there is not much room, so even if I could afford it, the commercial tamper would most likely not fit most of the time,

I've been thru just about everything you just described, with similar results - plus I DID try the HF "long handled air scraper", sacrificed a $14 chisel and welded a short boxed in piece of 3" C-channel to the end of it, I doubt if it lasted even 2 minutes...

I also used one of the handheld air chisels to drive a couple of ground rods - only thing I found to work for that was NOT welding ANYTHING - instead, I found a scrap piece of tubing that was just a bit larger than the diameter of the ground rod, took the longest shanked chisel in the set that came with the air chisel, cut the end off square - then I put on a heavy welding glove, slid the short piece of tubing over the end of the ground rod (left about 2" sticking up above the rod for a "socket" so the air chisel would stay centered - 2 fingers holding the rod, other two holding the sleeve (left hand), right hand running the air chisel.

That actually worked - I've since used that same cut off chisel as a mini-air hammer to loosen frozen pins on stuff, works on pins up to 1-1/2" by about 12" long (see my equipment list)

The problem I've had trying what you suggest - the relatively short stroke of the air chisels does NOT have the power to overcome the inertia of something that heavy, so it's a lot like trying to bring down an African elephant with a BB gun - frustrating to you, probably irritating (if that) to the elephant...

I hear what you're saying about the Rohrer's being heavy, mine's 38 pounds (110 after using it a while ) Even their basic T post driver weighs 26, when you add a modified T post probably around 32 - Mine, at 38# plus probably at least 10# for the adapter I'd fab, is even worse.

That's why, when I get that "round tuit" I WILL build a larger version of the little "mini-jib" I did for getting stuff up on one of my "work tables" - only the new one will need about an 8 foot jib and one of the small HF 12 volt winches with remote, and a 3PH mount. The jib method will take care of the frustration of trying to move a tractor to the exact position needed next to a post (whether driving the post or tamping around it)...

This is getting a bit longer winded than anybody wants to read, I'm gonna see if the pic uploader is working this week or not - if so, here's the small jib I built. It pins on in place of the original boom and jack on the HF pickup crane. I'll answer any questions later... Steve

 

[BHD]

my digger is about a 9" auger, and the posts are 6 5/8" around so there little room,

but on these steel pipe posts I am using there is not much room, so even if I could afford it, the commercial tamper would most likely not fit most of the time, even with the crescent foot, so even if there up against one side of the hole there is only about 2 inches (unless I need to straighten or widen the hole for some reason with the hand digger),so my 1 1/2" head is about max for the size of the head, unless I mill off or grind off some the head and make oval or flat,

This may be out of your price range but it is what it is:

Designed for compacting around utility line repairs and new installations prior to pouring concrete
5 3/4in. round malleable butt
Built-in lubricator and muffler
7/8in. tapered rod
Plated piston

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...tent=1540339&gclid=COakhOPjyM0CFQetaQodbJ8O_A

TBS

 

[newbury]

<snip>
This is getting a bit longer winded than anybody wants to read,<snip>

Actually reading the evolution of a tool is very helpful. It's better to learn from the experience of others.

 

[bcp]

I wonder what could be done with one of these.

Striker Tools Air-Operated Post Driver-43 - The Home Depot

Bruce

 

[bcp]

this is what I came up with for the time being. or my first try, I may try the Rohrer ponder, but it is not light either, I was wanting some thing that was light and easy to move and lift up and re positon, the tamper,

so I was thinking about an air hammer, (have seen the air floor scrapers, but figured if I would put one of them in a hole with a altered end on it the dirt would kill in short order,

so I went to the shop and found a old air chisel, and some bits, one was a center punch type bit,

it nearly fit in side a 3/8" pipe, loosely, and then took a 7/16" rod and ran up in the pipe and drilled the end with a center drill so the punch would work on it, and then, cut a 1 1/2" shaft off about 1" long and drilled it so the pipe would fit in it, and then drilled holes to plug weld the rod in place, and the punch. I used 7018

I know in past experience, welding on chisels is not very successful,

so is there a way of doing it where it will hold, in about 2 mins, of use the plug weld is loose, it is entrapping the chisel, the picture with chisel end,

is there a way of welding the chisel, so it will hold,

Or should I just, turn out a regular shaft to the shape of the chisel and put in, but then I am concerned it will mushroom out and not last either,

I do not know if this will work reliability but I wanted to try.

I think you caught the right idea, but by the wrong end.

Buy a smoothing bit for your air hammer.



Attach it to an in-line air hammer with a 3 to 4ft long handle, or modify a pistol grip air hammer and add a long handle. The goal is to have the hammer down in the hole, with a short bit and a long handle.

Bruce

 

[BukitCase]

Bruce - "Convenient 1-person operation uses air power to lift the weight and 2 handles to drive the post"

THAT was the description of the Stryker that caused me to buy the Rohrer. As I read that, IT lifts the driver, but YOU slam it down. In my book, the tool is doing the EASY half of the work, not ALL of it...

If anybody owns one of those, chime in with a rebuttal if I'm wrong. (Happened before, 'bout 60 years ago :laughing

BTW, the "mini-jib" is mounted to a steel table that's about 3'x5' and weighs around 450# - I can swing that jib away from the table and hang on the end and bounce (all 190# of me) and the table stays put and the HF part of the jib flexes just enough to see - works great for all those things that're too heavy for me, but a PITA to try and get the hoe into that small area... Steve

 

[BHD]

I do think this Idea would be best if the hammer was sealed, but I have some very sandy (beach type sand in the soil) and I think if I put a tool down in that sand it would be scrap metal in minuets.

actually this was one of my first ideas, as said thought about modifying one of the long reach floor scrapers, but above some one said they tried it and it lasted about 2 min, and I have a feeling that if one took an air hammer/chisel and put it in the dirt it may not last much longer,

I think you caught the right idea, but by the wrong end.

Buy a smoothing bit for your air hammer.

View attachment 473041

Attach it to an in-line air hammer with a 3 to 4ft long handle, or modify a pistol grip air hammer and add a long handle. The goal is to have the hammer down in the hole, with a short bit and a long handle.

Bruce