Tell me how to load my tractor and skid steer on the trailer correctly

[BubbaBillyBob]

All--

I have a 2016, 4wd Mahindra with a backhoe and other stuff coming my way. I also have a '05 Komatsu SK 1024 turbo that weighs about 7600lbs. My question concerns where a load is positioned on the trailer (H&H electric/hydraulic tilt bed with upgraded frame and axles). How do I know the appropriate amount of weight to put on the rear end of my pickup (2016 Ram Limited, SRW, 6.7l Cummins, 8300lbs)? Is there a "by eyeball" method?

Thanks.

--Bill

 

[Rustyiron]

When in doubt, I'll just watch for several inches of truck drop to get you close on the tongue weight.

 

[PHPaul]

When in doubt, I'll just watch for several inches of truck drop to get you close on the tongue weight.

Exactly, tho I'd specify "several" as 3 or 4.

Edit: That's AFTER the truck returns to normal stance while loading. Driving up the ramp will lift the back of the truck unless you have jacks or blocks under the rear of the trailer. Once your fully on the trailer with no load on the ramp(s) watch the back of the truck as you inch forward. You'll see it start to settle as the weight transfers to the hitch.

 

[BubbaBillyBob]

Rustyiron and PHPaul--

I have a tilt bed trailer. Would the process be to get the machine centered over the trailer axles, lower the deck to the level position and measure the drop of the truck's rear end looking for a 3" to 4" drop? If not in that range, move the machine backward or forward to get the proper drop?

--Bill

 

[George2615]

I recently upgraded from a 7K H&H tilt bed to a PJ 14K tilt bed but loading is the same. I've also used the 3-4" drop rule. Measure the truck rear bumper height with nothing on the trailer then put the tractor on the trailer, lower the deck and move the tractor forward to give a 3-4" drop of bumper height. Then chain everything down and your good to go.

 

[sikmusicfreak8]

You want a hair more weight on the tongue of the trailer, forward of the axle. Like they said, should squat the truck a bit. For me, this is how I load mine:

 

[Deere Dude]

I would load it where you think it should be then go and weigh it to get the exact weight prescribed over the tongue. This is probably more important if you have a bumper pull trailer.

 

[sikmusicfreak8]

I would load it where you think it should be then go and weigh it to get the exact weight prescribed over the tongue. This is probably more important if you have a bumper pull trailer.

Not a bad thing to do, but I feel a bit overkill. Throwing on more or less implements would throw that out the window anyhow.

 

[RUSTBUCKET BRONCO]

this is how I load mine:


looks like the lazyboy is way to far forward :twocents::thumbsup:

 

[jim44]

The mud flaps on my dually end about 3" from the ground. I move forward until they just touch the ground. Seems like a pretty good gauge, and it drives just fine like that.

 

[newbury]

The importance is getting about 15% of weight on the ball.
It's not that difficult to use a bathroom scale and a few boards to get a pretty precise tongue weight. (diagrams on etrailer web site) Then once you do it measure your drop and shoot for that drop the next time. 'My dually only drops a few inches with a ton in the bed.

Another method I used at first was to get about 700 pounds of meat and put it on the folded down tailgate to see how far it dropped. The 700 lbs was myself and my two sons.

I've since gone ahead and bought a scale to get accurate tongue weight.

 

[vsteel]

What I did is put the hitch in my pickup and measured to the ground. I then put weight on the hitch to make it squat an inch. (I stood on the ball and it dropped almost an inch and I weight 285lbs) I figured out that 300lbs drops my hitch an inch. I checked with more weight and in the small range I am in it can be considered linear.

I have a Big Tex 12ET trailer that weighs ~ 3000lbs which also drops the hitch about 1 inch. I then just figure the weight of what I am hauling and take 10% of it and divide it by 300. I don't get too critical on the dimensions, just get close. So for example:

My hitch is at 19 inches, I put the trailer on and I am at 18. I decide I am going to haul my 74 power wagon and it comes in at ~6500lbs. I call it 6K divide it by 10 for the 10% weight and I am at 600lbs. I then divide by 300 and I get 2. So that tells me I need to pull it forward until my hitch drops 2 inches or is at a total height of 16 inches. I do this without the weight distributing hitch connected. After I get it where I want it I then connect it.

I only go to the nearest half inch, I am not counting eighths or anything.

 

[tcartwri]

The importance is getting about 15% of weight on the ball.
It's not that difficult to use a bathroom scale and a few boards to get a pretty precise tongue weight. (diagrams on etrailer web site) Then once you do it measure your drop and shoot for that drop the next time.
.

Don't be discouraged by your results. It's not that accurate, and it's time consuming.

 

[joeu235]

I haul a 11,000# tractor all the time with various implements that affect weight distribution. If the truck feels like a bucking bronco at highway speed, I know that it needs more weight up front. Usually moving the tractor as little as 4 inches forward fixes everything.

 

[aircommuter]

The standard for tongue weight is 10%. You can get a tongue scale. Sherline is the name, I have the 5000lb variety and use it for pre-weight and position weight on equipment.

 

[Tomtint]

As others said, watch the rear end of your truck to see when it drops a few inches, and you should be pretty good on the location for your load. That said, My 350 sags much sooner than my 450 does and I tend to like less sag on the 350 and more on the 450.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I assume you are talking about EITHER moving the TLB OR the skidsteer not both at the same time. Correct?

 

[Henro]

Jason,

I wonder if I am the only one that feels frightened when he sees something tied down with straps rather than chains and binders?

Nice looking tractor!

Wish I had your trailer!

Bill

 

[Furu]

I use a scale for the first time I load a new implement and then mark my trailer with paint on a reference line for that specific configuration of equipment.
More time consuming the first time you load an implement combination but makes for quick loading on all subsequent loading of different combinations.

Of course I have in excess of 8 different combos for just my tractor and implements on the flat bed trailer and that is before I get to the compact track loader in its dedicated trailer.

Total tie down time over many repeat loadings adds up and makes the first time complexity well worth the extra time it takes to mark the point and use the scale.

If you only tow once a year then may not be worth it.

 

[bdog]

The safest way is to weigh your trailer and load and then weigh your tongue weight and set it to 10-15%. That being said most people eyeball it by the truck sag. Too much tongue weight is better than not enough as long as you don't go overboard and overload your hitch. A trailer with too much tongue weight will pull just fine but not enough tongue weight and it will sway like crazy. I have pulled trailers with probably close to 30-40% tongue weight and they handled fine but it was light load and the hitch was rated for it. I have had loads with not enough tongue weight and they almost threw me off the road.