Big difference in turning radius: Kioti NX5510 vs Kubota MX5200 vs Mihindra 2555

[4570Man]

Yes, loader work and brake-assist turning really don't go together well. As noted above, I don't think that I've ever used the brakes to shorten up steering on my B7800: it turns so sharp to start with. I literally spin the B7800 around trees with a 5' field mower in tow. This does a pretty good job of keeping the inside skid of the mower from digging in.

As long as the front wheels are firmly on the ground the brake steering isn't needed. My B7200 with my little 3' cutter or rear blade is pretty light on the front end. Sometimes the brakes are needed to steer. If it had power steering I would add a couple hundred pounds on the front and cure the problem, but it doesn't have power steering. Mowing is a workout without any additional front weight.

 

[DieselBound]

Maybe it is because the Kiotis front axle knuckles are mounted in double shear and the kubota is a single shear design

jmo but double shear is generally considered stronger and used on utility tractors versus many CUTs that use the single shear design


http://www.kubota.com/assets/product/MX4800/images/bevealedgear_rev.jpg -Kubota
403 Forbidden Kioti

That's the kind of reasoning I was hoping for. (can't access the Kioti document though) But... then I look closer (their brochures aren't real easy to read due to cramming specs for 14 different models!) and I see that the cab models have a tighter turning radius!

NOTE: Correction to my earlier statement that the non-HSTs show up as turning sharper; that's not the case, they're the same. It's the cab models (I'm still deciphering their model number schemes) that are different (less).

 

[sd455dan]

This shows the Kioti-

Believe the Mahindras are double shear also- I would gladly give up a little in turning radius to gain strength

 

[DieselBound]

Mahindra's 2555 (I like it, but think that it might just be a bit too big for my needs) has a published turning radius of 11'. This is more than Kubota's, but still, I believe, statistically within reason.

This is unlike the loader disparity that I've got a separate thread on. That issue can be explained by the loader operational times.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I have a lot of trees and other obstacles that I have to work around: maybe I should go measure them. The less time that I have to spend jockeying around the better, especially with an implement hanging off the back. I don't have the luxury of having bought pre-cleared property

I just got back from the Kioti/Mahindra dealer. I test drove an NX4510 (with cab), as they had no NX5510 there. The NX4510 seemed perfectly fine, but it specs out at 11.5' vs. the 13.1'+ on the NX5510. Also, no loader, so no testing that either, though I like the joy stick being mounted back (I run with my loader on my B7800 all the time, because I often take stabs at crap as I'm mowing all over the place, and I find that my shoulder is sore at the end of a day even though I'm not really doing a loader work).

And, yes, I don't use brakes to turn either. Without an actual machine to try out all I have is specs: and it's not my fault that manufacturers don't list turning radius w/o brakes.



Yes, I understand this totally. I quite often drop out of 4wd when I'm doing a lot of turning in areas that have stable ground: my truck's turning radius is just shy of a mile if I have it in 4wd! Front tires are listed the same: 10-16.5. Would the difference be with the rears? NX4510 is listed with 14.9-24 and the NX5510 lists 17.5-24. (I can't find any calculator to give me tire circumference. Again, between the NX4510 and the NX5510 we're talking about 14% larger turning radius with the NX5510. The salesman was even a bit perplexed.

When I see something that's significantly different I want to know the reason/logic behind it.

Fair enough. I tend to over analyze some aspects when I'm looking at a new purchase but I don't think I have ever looked at turning radius as any sort of decision. I would think that you would look at weight of the machine, pto hp, and either 3pt or loader lift as much more important specs to look at. If you are getting a bigger tractor some tress are going to have to go or just build new roads in. :thumbsup:

 

[holeycow]

Overanalyzing.

Do. Don't think. Do.

For example: loader cycle times do not matter as much as smoothness of operation and durability of components.

A second here or there only matters if you are in the dirt business with many pieces going all at the same time for months on end. Tractor operating is not a race. If you treat it as such you will lose all the time gained by fixing broken stuff.

 

[k0ua]

If you are looking for something with a tight turning radius, If you can find an older New Holland like a TC33da with SuperSteer. I had one years ago I think it was a 1999 model. That machine will turn on a dime without brakes even. Not only do the front wheels turn, but the front axle turns also. It was really nice for mowing, but when operating on slopes it could get you into trouble with too sharp of a turn. I almost lost it a couple of times. Those tractors were made by Shibaura in Japan for New Holland. I don't think anyone is making anything like SuperSteer in a CUT tractor now that I know of.

Keep in mind, if you have a HST transmission, you can maneuver around obstacles by "see-sawing" the tractor so fast you don't really need a super sharp turning tractor. It just becomes part of your routine without thinking to take a couple of "hitches" to get maneuvered around something like a tree or stump. It is much more convenient than working shift levers and clutches. Operate one for a few days and you will see what I am talking about.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Mahindra's 2555 (I like it, but think that it might just be a bit too big for my needs) has a published turning radius of 11'. This is more than Kubota's, but still, I believe, statistically within reason.

This is unlike the loader disparity that I've got a separate thread on. That issue can be explained by the loader operational times.

then you need to look at the 1500 series.

 

[DieselBound]

I've got a LOT of trees. I'm NOT going to be running around cutting them down: I've got HUGE trees, that when cut, make HUGE stumps (I'm already lined up to bring in a excavator to remove stumps for my fencing project). I go in and do "logging" from time to time to pull out downed timber for firewood; my tractor is the tool for that and it needs to be fairly maneuverable because I have other trees and logging debris to contend with- it's a chicken and egg thing, got to get stuff out of the way so that I can maneuver. My B7800 has performed admirably, but I have stuff that it just doesn't have enough oomph to deal with. No way I expect any of the machines could be as nimble as my B7800; but on the other hand I cannot have something that's as responsive as the Titanic (a bit of hyperbole, yes, but my situations out on my property aren't "iceberg" free).

I appreciate others' feedback on what I need, but I'm pretty sure I know what I need. I'm just wanting to know why these specs are what they are. Without being able to bring each machine on to my property specs are all I really have to go on. If turning radius wasn't important then I wouldn't think that everyone would be putting them in their sales brochures. Referring back to loader specs, would folks expect to be able to prove loader lift capacity at the dealer's? I suspect people go by the published specs.

Either Kioti has something "special" going on (once I know what that is I'll decide whether it's a tradeoff that I could live with) or their published specs are screwed up. This is likely something that I'm going to have to pursue through Kioti (rather than soliciting from folks who do not own this specific model).

 

[LD1]

I agree, that you need to go get seat time on all the models in question. That is the only way you are gonna know what you like.

Different specs are important to different people, and to a different degree. Each individual spec is part of a big puzzle that when all pieced together have a complete package.

You wont find one tractor that is the absolute best at everything in its class. And if you did....the argument could be made that it should be in the next class up.....where it likely wouldnt fare as well.

All the lines between sizes, classes, brands, etc is one big blur.

For me personally, loader cycle time is important. Lets just assume that they are all made durable and operate smooth. I dont think a MFG is gonna put out something that is gonna tear itself apart. If you have alot of dirt to move, and you can shave a few seconds off lifting and dumping that load.....it adds up to being more productive. IE....getting more done in less time. But I suppose the argument can be made that the slower but stronger loader could have a larger bucket put on it, to take advantage of its strength, and be just as productive.

Turning radius.....dont know what the MX is without brakes. But its probably in the same ballpark as the others. But its the same story.....I do alot of mowing for hire. If I can do anything to shave a few seconds off each turn......by the end of a 300-400acre mowing season.....it certainly adds up.

Regarding the single vs double shear front axle.......sure....double shear is stronger. But at what point is it strong enough and at what point is it overkill/un-necessary. There is more to the design and strength than just a simple single vs double shear design. Its not exactly like the web is flooded with posts about kubota front axle failures. So I would think they have it engineered just fine, and is sufficiently strong enough to do whatever you want.

But as I said earlier and in the other post.....get some time behind the wheel on each. Even if one tractor was clearly better in every facet on paper.......it might not be comfortable or fit you well. You have to pick a machine that fits you and is going to be comfortable and ergonomic to run all day. Because the reality of these 3 tractors is.....in the real world of working the machine, there will be very little difference in their capabilities.