Ballast To load or not to load. That is the question.

/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #41  
I have a DK40 with loaded rears, when doing loader work I can easily lift the rear tires if I don't have at least 400lbs of ballast on the rear.

When I do heavy loader work I put my KK 6 foot box frame disc on the rear, and have 100 gallon of rimguard in the tires, and sometimes that feels light. If I remember correctly when I purchased my tractor Kioti claimed that the loader was rated for 2800 pounds at the lift point, and recommended 2300 pounds of ballast.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #42  
Are you getting a block heater?

Some places in Ontario do not install block heaters as a matter-of-course. Just do it and plug it in overnight. There is no sense punishing your diesel (even if it will start without).

We are a few months out from the sadly hilarious round and round about block heaters. Canadians should know better...

Might as well get all your filters and a good strap wrench (or water-pump pliers if there is room) for the nearly welded-on hydraulic filter(s) too.

You are gonna love that tractor! Congrats!
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #43  
I hear you on that last sentence brother :) Right now we have gone with out any significant rain for weeks. My bees have stopped bring in any honey. Only worried about the lawn in the spring as right now it is as hard as concrete. Pretty sure I will make a small road into the woods near my shed so I should be able to have the option to avoid the lawn.


Humming birds here are lined up the feeder and emptying it in 3-4 days.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #44  
When I do heavy loader work I put my KK 6 foot box frame disc on the rear, and have 100 gallon of rimguard in the tires, and sometimes that feels light. If I remember correctly when I purchased my tractor Kioti claimed that the loader was rated for 2800 pounds at the lift point, and recommended 2300 pounds of ballast.

The KL-401 loader requires 1010 lbs at hitch point
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #45  
Making a note here for future reference for others stumbling across this thread.

If you live in a farming community you likely have tire companies there that can come out and fill tires. I had this done on one of my tractors. I'm now buying a new tractor and will have the tires filled at the dealer- much cheaper! Dealer is listing $200 ($2/gal) whereas the tire folks gave me a quote of $755 (includes 2hrs labor): I believe that the tire folks were looking at dispensing more fluid, though not a lot more.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #46  
Making a note here for future reference for others stumbling across this thread.

If you live in a farming community you likely have tire companies there that can come out and fill tires. I had this done on one of my tractors. I'm now buying a new tractor and will have the tires filled at the dealer- much cheaper! Dealer is listing $200 ($2/gal) whereas the tire folks gave me a quote of $755 (includes 2hrs labor): I believe that the tire folks were looking at dispensing more fluid, though not a lot more.
Water should be a good year round option in your area. Fill em for a penny or two and have total convenience to adjust or drain.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #47  
Making a note here for future reference for others stumbling across this thread.

If you live in a farming community you likely have tire companies there that can come out and fill tires. I had this done on one of my tractors. I'm now buying a new tractor and will have the tires filled at the dealer- much cheaper! Dealer is listing $200 ($2/gal) whereas the tire folks gave me a quote of $755 (includes 2hrs labor): I believe that the tire folks were looking at dispensing more fluid, though not a lot more.

I understood loading tires when I bought my tractor; but being my first tractor and the size/weight of it I thought I would be OK not loading. Big mistake, I have done quit a bit of FEL work and every time regret not having them loaded. I'm currently still trying to work out my cheapness and get them filled but for rimgaurd the cost is $995 bucks. So there is still a fight in my head between spending the cash and being happier doing loader work.:)
My advice for anyone getting a new tractor is like DieselBound did and get them loaded at the dealer.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #48  
I understood loading tires when I bought my tractor; but being my first tractor and the size/weight of it I thought I would be OK not loading. Big mistake, I have done quit a bit of FEL work and every time regret not having them loaded. I'm currently still trying to work out my cheapness and get them filled but for rimgaurd the cost is $995 bucks. So there is still a fight in my head between spending the cash and being happier doing loader work.:)
My advice for anyone getting a new tractor is like DieselBound did and get them loaded at the dealer.

Cat, an alternative is either Methanol mix or RV antifreeze. You could save a lot of money by doing either one of those by yourself. Even the RV anti freeze which is non toxic can be had for near $2 per gallon if you find it on sale. I used a drill pump once to load the tires on an Kubot L3400. It was $6, and will last about long enough to do the job.:) RimGuard may be best, but these other options will work and save a lot of money by doing it yourself. If I can do it, you can do it.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #49  
K0ua I hear ya,
I went to TSC and ask about the fitting for filling the tires. They looked at me like a mule staring at a new gate. Had no idea what what I was talking about. The only reason I wanted rimguard was I thought; if I'm going to the hassle of doing it I might as well get the heaviest fluid. I am a little worried about breaking the bead doing it myself. Murphy's law stays really close to me at all times.:laughing:
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #50  
We always had loaded rears here on the farm. I can't remember ever using a tractor without fluid ballast in the rears. When I purchased my first CUT, a YM 1700 Yanmar, those were loaded also. I finish mow with a pretty heavy utility tractor with loaded rears and stay off the grass when wet. Just use common sense.

I've purchased the adapters at TSC without any issue. I actually loaded the fronts on my 4610 SU. Rectified that issue with front weights once I located a weight bracket.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #51  
When I was spreading my floor in the barn; (crusher fines) I put my LP disk on the 3 point. What a difference it made. I'll try a different TSC, I know they have the adapter because so many on this forum have said so. I do want to load my tires; still fighting the cheap side of myself though.:laughing:
20160421_173228.jpg20160421_195635.jpg20160423_113138.jpg20160423_113214.jpg
Having loaded tires over having the disk on would have made spreading so much better/easier.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #52  
K0ua I hear ya,
I went to TSC and ask about the fitting for filling the tires. They looked at me like a mule staring at a new gate. Had no idea what what I was talking about. The only reason I wanted rimguard was I thought; if I'm going to the hassle of doing it I might as well get the heaviest fluid. I am a little worried about breaking the bead doing it myself. Murphy's law stays really close to me at all times.:laughing:

I have bought those 3 times at TSC. One time the girl had no idea what I wanted.
They are usually found with the flat fix stuff, plugs patches stem tools.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #53  
I have bought those 3 times at TSC. One time the girl had no idea what I wanted.
They are usually found with the flat fix stuff, plugs patches stem tools.

Thanks, I will check again next time I'm in TSC.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #56  
Cat fever, if you're in the warmer parts of Utah, then you only need to add water.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #57  
Cat fever, if you're in the warmer parts of Utah, then you only need to add water.

I'm northern Utah, sometimes below zero. Kinda getting cold thinking about winter.:laughing:

There, just changed my avatar to remind me of the coming winter. Leaves are starting to change in the mountains.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #58  
OK I am going to ask - how do you properly fill a tractor tire. I assume you leave it on, jack the weight off. put stem at 12 OC, deflate, then pump in fluid, letting the displaced air escape from time to time. Do you remover the valve stem at first?

Mine were filled by the local COOP for the dealer and the fluid level is much higher than the stem. I wondered if they filled it lying flat? How did they fill above the stem. My guess is the tire is 80% full based on the frost line I have seen.
 
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/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #59  
OK I am going to ask - how do you properly fill a tractor tire. I assume you leave it on, jack the weight off. put stem at 12 OC, deflate, then pump in fluid, letting the displaced air escape from time to time. Do you remover the valve stem at first?

Mine were filled by the local COOP for the dealer and the fluid level is much higher than the stem. I wondered if they filled it lying flat? How did theY fill above the stem. My guess is the tire is 80% full based on the frost line I have seen.

You are mostly correct. Yes you do remove the shrader valve from the valve stem.
Jack it up enough to relieve the weight. Not off the ground. Water to the valve stem. Most city water is between 40 and 70 psi, so you need to watch not to over pressure the tire. When the water is at above the stem you put the shrader valve back in. You should be able to put it in with too much water and under pressure which will be ok, which is what I guess the dealer did.
 
/ To load or not to load. That is the question. #60  
OK I am going to ask - how do you properly fill a tractor tire. I assume you leave it on, jack the weight off. put stem at 12 OC, deflate, then pump in fluid, letting the displaced air escape from time to time. Do you remover the valve stem at first?

Mine were filled by the local COOP for the dealer and the fluid level is much higher than the stem. I wondered if they filled it lying flat? How did they fill above the stem. My guess is the tire is 80% full based on the frost line I have seen.

Please see my post #4 in this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...thout-unseating.html?highlight=weight+on+tire
 

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